Guardians of The Lambsfoot!

black mamba said:
RALF says good morning to you, too, Harvey! So true about Jack's collection, but Ron (Half/Stop) has many stellar examples, as well as many others.

For pjsjr and others, the pull weight scale based on a typical SAK pull as a 5, no tension at all a 0, and unable to open a 10 runs pretty well except at the upper limits, where someone's individual thumb and nail strength can distort the numbers. Unless the blade is welded shut, then someone of great strength might assign an 8 when most would think it a 9 or 10. I personally have never encountered a 10, and only one 9, a Bulldog Wildcat Driller that I could barely open. As is reflected in the pull weight of Sheffield knives, heavier springs were often counted as higher quality "back in the day." Modern tastes seem to prefer lighter pulls than were more common in yesteryear. Early GECs were notoriously heavy, as they were based on old Remington patterns that were quite firm themselves.
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Thanks for this explanation, Jeff, much appreciated!
 
cigarrodog said:
Half/Stop Half/Stop The Sambar looks awesome against the wood.
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Thank you! :)

pjsjr said:
I worked on my Ironwood quite a bit and it is now where I can manage with out much trouble, except on getting it started out of the handle. Love that stag!
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Thanks! :) I’m glad your Ironwood is breaking in for you! :thumbsup:

black mamba said:
RALF says good morning to you, too, Harvey! So true about Jack's collection, but Ron (Half/Stop) has many stellar examples, as well as many others.

For pjsjr and others, the pull weight scale based on a typical SAK pull as a 5, no tension at all a 0, and unable to open a 10 runs pretty well except at the upper limits, where someone's individual thumb and nail strength can distort the numbers. Unless the blade is welded shut, then someone of great strength might assign an 8 when most would think it a 9 or 10. I personally have never encountered a 10, and only one 9, a Bulldog Wildcat Driller that I could barely open. As is reflected in the pull weight of Sheffield knives, heavier springs were often counted as higher quality "back in the day." Modern tastes seem to prefer lighter pulls than were more common in yesteryear. Early GECs were notoriously heavy, as they were based on old Remington patterns that were quite firm themselves.
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Jeff, thanks for the compliment! :) Well stated on the pull weights! :thumbsup:
 
Still playing catch-up here! :eek: :D :thumbsup:

dc50 said:
View attachment 1086804no different than any of my others.:thumbsup::D
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:D :thumbsup:

Half/Stop said:
No! I’ve got 3 small models, 8 medium models and 3 large models from Wright’s. I also have 1 Senator model, which may have the strongest pull of the lot. The pull varies slightly on all of them but they are close. I know that pull strengths are greatly subjective to individuals and I have a hard time placing a number with a pull. I will say I personally prefer my knives to be on the heavy side. I don’t really like weaker pulls. The main thing to me is the smoothness of the pull. All of my Wright Lambsfoot knives exhibit very smooth pull. I will add this note from my point of view. This is in no way a negative only an observation and it can have an effect on the pull weight. The Wright made knives are always full of some sort of black gunk. I’m sure it’s a by product of their manufacturing process. I always clean my knives immediately upon receiving them. I usually clean the joint and tang before even opening the knife. Then I clean the blade channel and tang area until it is clear. I also open the blade partially exposing the back spring and clean this section of the spring. I will then lube the joint with highly refined mineral oil, working the blade and flushing until everything is clear. Then I lube the joint and lightly wipe the blade. Sometimes this process can take up to an hour, but I feel it is worth the time and effort. :)

Today I’m totin this wee Sambar. :)

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Great post (and pic) Ron :thumbsup: I think the gunk is left over from when the blades are hand-ground and polished. Since cleaning it out at the factory would probably add £10 to the price of the knife, I don't personally mind flushing out the joints. I have certainly got used to it, and follow a similar procedure to yourself, though I repeatedly blow out the joint with air after oiling. I doubt I ever spend more than 5 minutes on it I'm afraid :oops: Lovely stag on that one my friend :) I have to say, even if we never got another single knife from Wright's, I'd feel we had got some good ones. I don't think Sheffield has produced knives of this quality for many decades :) :thumbsup:

cigarrodog said:
Jack Black Jack Black The nicest collection of Lambsfoot knives. BTW...I just received a copy of Knife Magazine(1/19). Just started to read your article on Richards. Very, nice.

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I worked on my Ironwood quite a bit and it is now where I can manage with out much trouble, except on getting it started out of the handle. Love that stag!
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Thank you Harvey, I am flattered :) I will have to drag all of mine out for a photo shoot together sometime :thumbsup: Very nice, I've not seen that one in print yet myself, I am honoured to have had a great collaborator covering the German Richartz company :) :thumbsup:

That's good to hear, they break in really nice in think :) :thumbsup:

cigarrodog said:
Agreed. The nice lady on the phone said they are going to offer a digital version in the near future.
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That's interesting :) While I much prefer to have a lovely magazine like that in my hand, a digital version might be convenient. Overseas subs come in a clear envelope, and when I picked up my copy of the following issue from my postal address yesterday, the guy who handed it to me, gave me quite a look!o_O

Prester John said:
Hope they'll keep the print, though.
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Definitely :thumbsup:

Prester John said:
Recently received a sample issue. Going to subscribe. Best knife magazine I've seen yet.
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It's a nice publication isn't it, with a focus squarely on traditional knives? :thumbsup: I used to write for British magazines which covered knives, but they're not around anymore :(

pjsjr said:
Nice to have those to chose from, variety is the spice of life!

I like the Spyderco Sharpmaker which is like the Lansky...nice family there!

I might agree Jeff, if I could figure out the number measuring scale for pull strength...your 6 maybe more or less than mine.

Thank you John, you are kind.

I worked on my Ironwood quite a bit and it is now where I can manage with out much trouble, except on getting it started out of the handle. Love that stag!
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I have a Sharpmaker, and think it was a good investment. I've had it 10 years or more now, but I have used Spyderco's ceramic stones since they first came out (Sal sent them me). When I first got the Sharpmaker, a lot of the times I would lay the stones flat, and use it like that :rolleyes: Sharpening a straight edge is so easy though. Recently, I've been using strops a lot, and am grateful for the advice (and hardware) I've received from @WhittlinAway and @Cambertree . I have friends who get great results from sandpaper. I use a range of media, and always enjoy trying out something new :) :thumbsup:

black mamba said:
RALF says good morning to you, too, Harvey! So true about Jack's collection, but Ron (Half/Stop) has many stellar examples, as well as many others.
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Thanks Jeff, I also think that Ron has some of the very best examples of the Guardians knives :) :thumbsup:

black mamba said:
For pjsjr and others, the pull weight scale based on a typical SAK pull as a 5, no tension at all a 0, and unable to open a 10 runs pretty well except at the upper limits, where someone's individual thumb and nail strength can distort the numbers. Unless the blade is welded shut, then someone of great strength might assign an 8 when most would think it a 9 or 10. I personally have never encountered a 10, and only one 9, a Bulldog Wildcat Driller that I could barely open. As is reflected in the pull weight of Sheffield knives, heavier springs were often counted as higher quality "back in the day." Modern tastes seem to prefer lighter pulls than were more common in yesteryear. Early GECs were notoriously heavy, as they were based on old Remington patterns that were quite firm themselves.
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I guess that reflects folks having been brought up on modern locking folders :thumbsup:

btb01 said:
6XoA9dj.jpg


:D :D
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:D :thumbsup:

Fodderwing said:
View attachment 1086858
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Gorgeous photo Dwight :) :thumbsup:

tmd_87 said:
Mmmmm good snack of some California Black tail venison salami.
The knife helped me cut up the salami.
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It's nice to see this years knives getting put to work :) I'm a bit torn, since Lucy was originally going to be my archive knife, and I'm not sure what is happening with Slippery Jack :confused: Obviously I've been using her, but I've avoided cutting fruit and stuff. I'll be glad when I get word from Wrights :rolleyes: :thumbsup:

OLd_gUY said:
As others have said, compared to typical American traditions the pull is stronger - but not excessive by any means IMHO and limited experience.

Here is Fenrir with a Dorado (Mahi-mahi) that a fishing buddy gave me one time when we were fishing close to Cabo San Lucas in Baja Sur, MX.
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I like your thinking OG, and that is a superb pic my friend :) :thumbsup:

btb01 said:
I think that’s intentional, the idea being that, for any task, you should start with the smaller pen blade, and only resort to using the larger blade once you’ve determined that the pen blade is insufficient for the job.






:rolleyes: :D
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There was talk of a special technique being needed to open the blades! :D :thumbsup:
 
black mamba said:
Dave, that burl between the first and second pins looks like a nuclear mushroom cloud.
Maybe you should name it "Bikini Atoll" or B.A. for short.
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haha maybe so Jeff :thumbsup::p the markings on this one are surely open to many an interpretation. If my Mother was still alive I'm sure she would have added her interpretation as well, she read tea leaves.:rolleyes::D
 
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