gun - not to be heard

I'm a bit out of touch with air rifles but I used to be heavily involved with them, and the first thing I'd say is that the power isn't the aspect I'd be focusing on where noise is concerned.

Legal restrictions of air rifle power vary, and on that I can only go with what is considered high power here. 12 ft/lbs is the top limit on energy you can have here before you need an FAC. Although I've played with several air rifles much more powerful than this I think it is safe to assume that is commonly regarded as high power.

Here's the thing: The engagement range of the target species never changed much whether I was shooting 12 ft/lbs or 18/20 ft/lbs. The kill area didn't change size. I can't be certain of grouping my shots on a ping-pong ball size area with an air rifle beyond 50 yards under real world conditions. The way I see it, that is what I need to do to ensure a clean kill of the species I'm after. If I can't do that then I have no business shooting at animals at that range. 12 ft/lbs on the sweet spot at that range kills just as good as 18/20 /lbs. But hey, 50 yrds is fairly extraordinary with an air rifle. Much more common to me was to take rabbits and stuff at around 30 / 40 paces. On that, you can quite easily get an off the shelf air rifle that avoids all the power band crack and will do the job. The differences in sound these tools will produce can be great. Spring guns are noisy. It is in their nature. But there are more ways to build a sporting air rifle than a spring gun and many of these are very quiet indeed. A true poachers friend.

Frankly, I get quite sickened when I hear of extreme feats with high power air rifles. I've taken bets from people with great claims of prowess at 50yards that couldn't take all ten ping-pong balls I put up at 50 paces with ten shots. Good. It's nice to humiliate a 'tard in front of his friends. And it's even nicer to know that you may well have saved a bunch of wildlife from wounding by an idiot. I've even had a salesman in a gun shop trying to sell me off the shelf with the blessing “this will kill a fox at 50 yards”. I wanted to beat him with the blunt end of it. Then there's the 'tards that go on about the power of these new miracle air rifles as if I had no understanding of the antique shop air-canes, or ever killed a whole bunch of stuff in the wild, or competitively shot bell target. Aarrgghhh; keep it simple and honest. An off the shelf 12 ft/lbs air gun is plenty for taking the types of things you ought to be using it on [save crows, sh1t they're tough], out to about the range you are accurate with it. In sum, it's a very quiet cheap to run solution for getting small critters. Winding in another 10 ft/lbs is not going to magically make you more accurate, or change the size of what you are trying to hit, or even the species you are hitting. On that, it is easy with a air rifle to throttle it to produce extremely low noise levels without impediment to the size of your bag.

That said, if I could use one here without fuss I would also have a Ruger M77. I'd go the Tactical Operation suppressed version going by the name of Green Hornet. This to me is clear.


Good post there!

As another who's 'limited' to 12ft-lbs, I have to say you are spot on about the difference another 10 or so makes, or rather doesn't. Mine can tweak easily up to double that, but there's little point. Your hunting comments are spot on as well!
 
What do you recommend for a quite off the shelf air rifle? Something with CO2?

A PCP is the way to go, or CO2 cylinder. Air or CO2 doesn't matter but getting rid of the big spring certainly does. Air has the advantage that you can get a hand pump to pressurize your PCP's cylinder if you don't have a SCUBA tank. I wonder if you could attach the pump to a CO2 cylinder though to recharge that...

A Pre-Charged Pneumatic, like mine below, is filled from a diver's air tank or a manual pump (hard work!) up to around 190-200 bar pressure. I can get about 50-60 full-power shots from that filling. The rifle takes a ten-shot magazine and is bolt action.

Because there's no spring, there's virtually no action noise when a shot is fired. The silencer takes care of most of the noise-causing turbulence as air exits the barrel, so it's almost silent. Just a quite 'dtuff' sound. Hitting the target at 30 yards makes more noise!

Getting rid of the spring also means no discernible recoil at all. I can keep the crosshairs centered during the shot and see where I hit!

I've a thread about mine here. My accuracy has improved somewhat since then...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600608

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Quietmike,

That is the weirdest soda bottle I have ever seen. LOL Very cool. How does it shoot?

I can routinely put five rounds into a dime size +or- group at 50 yards with it. With the can (SWR Warlock) and Rem. subs it is quiet enough that the hammer fall or bullet impact is the loudest thing about the shot.
 
I spent most of my youth banging around in the woods with multiple BB guns and pellet rifles...as well as bows and arrows and wristrockets galore...

The first serious pellet rifle I spent quality time with was my Dad's Sheridan Blue Streak, 5mm (.20 Cal.) Pneumatic. He had a Willams Peep Sight on it. It was fairly loud but certainly nowhere near a .22 LR. You didn't really have a second shot on the same animal unless the animal was stupid. :D

It was incredibly accurate and I killed all sorts of vermin with it as well as just amazing amounts of rabbit and squirrel with it. PAP! Down they go.

The year after my Dad died, I finally wore that pellet rifle completely out. I bought another one about 6-7 years later and put a Bushnell scope on it and it was like a 3-9X variable, I wanted them little rodent heads all up in that scope so I could pop their little melons. :D

Between those two rifles, I had to amp up lifting weights because I was starting to look like Schwarzenegger on one side. :D PUMP PUMP PUMP...

In 1989, I purchased a Beeman P-1 Magnum and that is the only pellet pistol I have ever owned that I could kill a rabbit or squirrel with reliably. I have owned, and had to sell, two of them since 1989...they are awesome spring air pistols. In the closet now I have a vintage mid-70s. Daisy Feinwerkbau .177 Ca;. that needs some work but I can't afford to get that done right now. The funniest thing happened! This was back around 1994, I picked up a copy of Mel Tappan's Survival Guns at a used book store and I was reading that and my Landlord who was also a room-mate asked me what i was reading and I showed him. Tappan's Numero Uno pellet rifle was this Daisy Feinwerkbau. My landlord/friend says, "I have one of them!" I was like, "Yeah right." Damn if he didn't go down in the basement and bring it up! I traded him a compound bow for it.

He had the scope mount screws all screwed up! But I could bust Breathsavers with that thing at 25 yards, no sweat.

I would love to have a Ruger 10/22 and Mk II both threaded for that SWR Spectre or Warlock, that would be awesome.
 
Mountainman38,

You have to compare as close to apples to apples as you can.

You compared a 29 grain projectile to a 14 grain projectile.

Beeman Kodiaks weigh 21 grains

Eunjins weigh 28

So the CB then stays at 33 ft lbs and given you could get velocity of say 800 fps for the 21's and 750 for the 28's, that would make 30 Ft lbs and 35 Ft lbs respectively. Hop up your rod and you are talking over 40 ft lbs.

Never experimented with CB caps, but isn't there some accuracy concerns shooting the round ball through a rifled bore?
 
What do you recommend for a quite off the shelf air rifle? Something with CO2?

I shot my gammo big cat today. I thought it was EXTREMELY loud for an air rilfe. I took it back. Maybe I just need a spring air gun that shoots a little slower (RWS .22 maybe?)

I did get a savage 22. I like it...though right now I'm a terrible shot with the iron sights. We'll see if the scope helps.

Oh yea.. the gamo big cat had way more recoil than the savage 22.

Sorry for the delay amigo, been playin' in the shrubbery with mah woman. foxyrick jumped in on that question and gave an answer every bit as good as what I would have said ;-)
 
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Ugh lord, there is so much misinformation in this thread.

Look, the federal laws on silencers / suppressors are simple: If you want one, you have to have it registered through the government registry (put in place by the National Firearms Act of 1934, hereafter referred to as NFA). If you can own a firearm, and your state allows them, you can own a suppressor. You just find a local dealer for them, fill out the ATF Form 4 paperwork in duplicate, have your chief of law enforcement (usually the sheriff) sign it, have 2 passport pictures taken, 2 fingerprint cards done, and submit it all to the ATF with a check for $200. Your local dealer will be able to better instruct you.

Once it's submitted, you'll wait anywhere from 8 weeks to a year for approval and then you can have your sweet ass new suppressor, in whatever caliber you purchased. The suppressor is considered a firearm in it's own right... but you can put it on whatever appropriate firearm you feel like. There's no restriction on putting it on one or another - the .22lr suppressor you buy can be on a rifle or a pistol. The 9mm can go on your pistol or your carbine. The suppressor is not "married" to one weapon, which is why my 5.56 rifles (several) all have suppressor adapters, but I only have 2 5.56 suppressors.

You can go the "purpose built suppressed weapon" route, but it's a pain in the ass if you want to sell it in the future. Don't ever expect to get your money back on a suppressor by itself.

Guess what? You can also build one yourself, legally. You just fill out a Form 1 (intent to manufacture) form, do the same process mentioned above for the form 4, and wait. Once approved, you can build it in the caliber you specified, with the serial number you specified. DO NOT BUILD A SUPPRESSOR BEFORE RECEIVING APPROVAL - just having parts for an unregistered suppressor is a felony.

Past that, there is no "license" for this stuff. There's a Special Occupational Taxpayer permit for manufacturers / dealers, but as an individual, you don't need any of that.
 
I also have a Beeman P1 Magnum that I bought around 1989 also. It goes well with my Beeman Webley Tempest and either can kill small game but the P1 is more powerful. They have become terrible expensive though as the P1 is made in Germany and the exchange rate and their cost to make goods have skyrocketed.
 
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