Heat Treatment - Crystal Weaving Foundation

As usual impressive!

Can my CWF 1.0 W2 do the same?

bluntcut said:
I was going to do destruction bending test a bushcraft profile W2 1/8" 64rc blade but pain intervention happened. And then a friend asked for a blade to dig a 3" dia hole through 2x4 in less than 5 minutes. Hard to resist this type of fun. After a 10+ minutes trial dig, I put on a temporary handle...

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As usual impressive!

Can my CWF 1.0 W2 do the same?

bluntcut said:
I was going to do destruction bending test a bushcraft profile W2 1/8" 64rc blade but pain intervention happened. And then a friend asked for a blade to dig a 3" dia hole through 2x4 in less than 5 minutes. Hard to resist this type of fun. After a 10+ minutes trial dig, I put on a temporary handle...

kcPyTSnl.jpg


FmfyNmM.jpg


Click to expand...
 
I'd like a w2 with the latest ht for my sage1, even if I have to grind the opening hole myself.
 
Oh sorry jpm2 - I missed your post. My works aren't (yet) at precision level appropriate for a folder blade. Yeah I need to leveling up :)

jpm2 said:
I'd like a w2 with the latest ht for my sage1, even if I have to grind the opening hole myself.
Click to expand...

I got bogged down with things so not much time messing with metal. Well, I managed to tinkered with a new steel today and decide to shoot a fun video of light testing, plus throw in an old blade to spice/spike anyone willing to take a wild-guess at what steels & hardness.

They are tool steels and well known as brittle, so take a wag guess at steel type and approx hardness.
Pressure cuts: oak, bamboo, mun ebony, cooked pork rib bone
Tap (light chop): oak


Answer: small blade is cpm rex121 70-72rc. other is D6 (2.1%C) 65rc.

Edit 20170704: HT 2.4 niolox blades peaked hardness ~65rc. 65rc Edge stable at 12dps for hard slicing with bone contact. 18dps supports whittle hard bone and nail. 63-64rc, 18dps for moderate impact usage.
 
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Niolox - http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/lohmann/niolox.shtml
.120" thick, 15/16" wide, 3.25" blade, 8 1/8" OAL
65rc via HT 2.4
15 dps with 18dps micro, 0.012" behind edge thickness

Whittle: oak, bamboo, mun ebony, pork rib bone
Light chop: bone
Baton: dried loquat wood, bone

Edge after batoned bone
dffQiq1.jpg



Edit to add 1st cantilever test:

W2 65rc ht 2.4

First semi-formal attempt to figure out tensile strength and endurance limit. Where EL is about 1/4 of Ultimate Tensile Strength.

Fractured TS (UTS) = 21.9 lbs. Therefore (newb/simple-minded calc) TS ~ 10.95#, EL ~ 5.48#

** I appreciate any guidance/assessment from those with structural skills+knowledge!

 
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Right on - niffty good, wag my ain't :p

I like D6 more than D2 - edged my lawn + yard works + kitchen + cardboard. Brilliantly replaced 0.95%V with ~ 0.22%V + 1.0%W - http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/AISI/d6.shtml

Maybe I will ask the steel vendor for 2mm+3mm stocks, as of now only carries only 4.2mm thick of D6.

From positive niolox test result, I decided to put edge on a 65rc niolox partial chomper (1/4" thick, 6.5" blade, 9.5" OAL) and chop test. 16dps, 0.015" BET. Test went from soft woods to super hard (2x4, oak, ..., rosewood, katalox), then pork bone = can't find any edge damage with loupe. OK actually did found one area where I accidentally dinged against a stainless steel rack.

I just whittled 16d nail - got a few micro chips. Since these are small chips, I might keep this chomper at 65rc since lower to 63-64rc won't change damage size. I think 18dps would pass this test.

Chris "Anagarika" said:
Luong,

WAG based on your previous posts was D6 (I was right :D) but couldn't guess rex121. :eek: :eek:

Thanks for sharing.
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Before jumping back into work-bog... I side-side tested ht 1.0 3V and ht 2.4 niolox both at 65rc. Same edge stability and similar micro chips size when whittle 16d nail. Niolox dusted 3V on edge retention. Although their carbide volume is similar, however I suspect niolox smaller carbide played crucial role in edge retention. (4/3 pi*r^3) Volume of eight 1um diameter carbide = one 2um diameter carbide. Well, it will stays as a suspect since I don't have picral etchant to verify this. Rematch 3V with HT 2.4+? a maybe.
 
Luong,

Watched the cantilever test. Just a suggestion, for more accurate scale, when nearing breaking point, add water by drips. IIRC that's what we did back in high school lab. ;)

And boy, I'd like that Niolox utility :D
 
Thanks Chris! Agree, drips or slow pour would be more control and accurate near fracture point. Unfortunately, I don't know where this point was and future will be. Shaping the test bar to uniform dimension is problematic, so I've been holding off more cantilever tests. Future test bars will have thicker dimension - to reduce error margin due to grinding and increase water volume.

I lowered niolox chompers to 64+rc from 65rc. Yesterday, capped 2 young coconut with another niolox bushcraft (15dps + 15/20 micro, 0.010" BET) - too easy, maybe will up the game with black-shell coconut using edge (15dps + 15/25 micro, 0.010"bet).

HT 2.5: since new rex121 bar won't be here until Monday and didn't find any s90v blanks, subst with 2x s110v blanks. Straight from ht w/o temper - I sharpened 15dps, 0.012"BET with SiC & diamond plate (so no power grind done on it) one blade 66-66.25rc. After went through all tests as that little niolox blade above. Edge after batoned through dried cooked pork rib bone - a small ripple and micro chips barely visible under 22x loupe. I will post post-test edge pic after a short hike. Unless there were gross experimental errors somewhere... ht 2.5 is looking good.

Chris "Anagarika" said:
Luong,

Watched the cantilever test. Just a suggestion, for more accurate scale, when nearing breaking point, add water by drips. IIRC that's what we did back in high school lab. ;)

And boy, I'd like that Niolox utility :D
Click to expand...

Edit to add pic of s110v 66+rc edge after batoned pork rib bone:

M13KOaT.jpg
 
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Just a test of edge stability - albeit conducted by me, above average user with knife skills = please keep this in mind.

Niolox/sb1 steel, 0.125" thick
65rc via BCMW HT 2.4

Sharpened 15dps with one side micro bevel at ~25*, which is about 40 degrees inclusive. It has ~ 0.011" behind edge thickness.

Pressure cut a black-shell (ripened) coconut.

Thanks for watching (~6 minutes) and comments.

 
Well, instead of niolox chompers, I think they are not hefty enough, so relabeled them as camp knives

Niolox 0.25" thick, 6.5" blade, 1.75" wide, partial tang, cocobolo handle with ss corby bolts.
64rc via HT 2.4

Sharpened: 15 dps with 18 dps micro bevel (5k grit waterstone finished)
Edge thickness: 0.014" (bevel shoulder)

Chop tests: coconuts, 2x4, loquat, rosewood.

Thanks for watching and comments.


Well - look like edge rolled from chopping rosewood, while no sign of damage from chop black-shell coconut.
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Thanks. I can see a fun coconut processing knife - maybe 8" blade with husking spear point. For occasional young coconut lopping, a 3-4" fixed edc would works fine.
Chris "Anagarika" said:
Luong,

You made chopping coconut looks easy :eek::thumbsup:
Click to expand...

This micrograph ONLY useful for infer a rough idea of microstructure - a finer/smaller details = a more finer matrix. Blotchy white patches are polished surfaces didn't corroded by FeCl, thus maximum light reflected to lense = bright white.

EYoBhsj.png
 
A test video prior to weekend HT 2.5 some Rex121

Edge stability test by open a can (condense milk)

S110V 65.5+rc via HT 2.5

Sharpened with Edge-Pro at 30 degrees inclusive

Thanks for watching and comments.


Edge after test. *Look like damages due to edge rammed into the can rim (folded metal).
BcXnHCV.jpg


:oops: today is 7/14.
 
I was going to say that s110v blade faired better than my n5 maxamet at 15dps, but noticed you made straight cuts. I never pulled the knife out and made curved cuts around the lid, which I think put a lot more side stress on the edge. But still not bad for s110v.:thumbsup:
At ~18 dps, the n5 maxamet had no damage other than a wee bit of dulling.
Also I think the condensed milk can lid I just now cut open (making ice cream) is softer than the bean can I cut with max blade. Used my home made knife (T42 I think) on the milk can, very little damage, bare noticeable with finger nail, but the blade is also much shorter profile.

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Sorry for the picture spam. :oops:
 
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