Heats, solutions, carbides etc... I am back and stirring the pot

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Sep 9, 2003
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A couple of weeks ago we had a discussion involving heating and soaking and dissolution of carbides or lack thereof in 5160. In that thread I posted a picture to help explain things that was mislabeled and I actually did not have proper permission to publish images of that steel, although I do the metallography I never use material gathered from other peoples products without complete clearance to do so, so I had to remove that image from my server and thus from the thread.

However, I actually have much better examples of what we were discussing in my files, I just needed time to find them and discuss things. Now that I have returned from a rather involved presentation I had to give this weekend, I have the time to share some more with you and address those issues again in a clearer way and cover many topics that have been touched on since. And this time with images that are free and clear.:D

The people who make the steel we work with thoroughly work out the best ways to get the most potential out of them. As bladesmiths we trust them to make our steel yet often seem to doubt they know anything about treating and working it. The assumption that just because a piece of steel is in the shape of a blade that none of the properties or principles apply is erroneous at best and downright arrogantly blind at worst. Often the reason that later numbers on the spec sheets don’t apply is because we didn’t pay any attention to the previous numbers. We totally ignore the recommended heat and soak times and then try to say that the books are wrong when we get different results and the tempering temperatures don’t match up later on.:confused: One can’t pick and choose which recommended procedures they are going to follow or ignore and expect to have all the results match up.

Let’s start with 5160 again. If done the way the spec sheets recommend we will heat to 1525F and soak for 1 hour per inch of thickness. Now I will dispense with any discussion about the nonsense that this could cause grain growth since we have put enough nails in that coffin allow it to rest in peace, anybody new to this and needs convincing can do a search on the topic and find all the old opinions and assumptions blown apart with undeniable facts.

The reason we need to go higher with 5160, than say 1095, is mostly due to the fact that is has less than .8% carbon which means will consist of 75% pearlite (finely segregated iron and carbon) grains, and 25% ferrite (low carbon iron) grains. When we heat this to the critical temperature (there are formulas to account for the alloying that will give you around 1370F for A1 in 5160), the pearlite will begin to dissolve, fairly quickly but not certainly not the instantaneous change the Iron carbon equilibrium diagram would theoretically suggest. But anyhow the pearlites time is now over and we need to worry about that darned ferrite (low carbon iron). That is what the upper critical temperature (Ac3) line is all about. From Ac1 to Ac3 we are putting more and more carbon into that iron to make austenite out of it. When we cross Ac3 we will have accomplished this, but there will still be plenty of carbon trapped in carbides to pull into the mix if we want good hard steel (martensite) when we quench. Yes carbides! Even in 5160, because that pearlite was made up of ferrite and cementite (iron-carbide) with a good amount of chromium carbides thrown into the mix. In 1095 you can make all austenite and leave many of those carbides in solution because with .95% carbon you have more than enough to spare and dissolving even more could even be a problem! But with 5160 you are right on the threshold of maximum hardness to begin with leaving too much undissolved carbide will result in very wimpy martensite. Thus you need to go to 1525F and hold it there to let the heat do its job if you want to get the most out of the steel.

To those who just don’t want these facts to mess with their comfortable beliefs my word for it should not be enough, for anybody for that matter, so I present the following:

5160u1.jpg



This is 5160 lamellar annealed (what you get from heating to critical and stuffing in vermiculite, wood ash or your forge) and then cycled several times a low heat (just under or just at nonmagnetic) and then heated to 1414F (non magnetic) for 5 minutes and quenched.

Here you will see very wimpy martensite (low carbon) that is in the areas that managed to go into solution. If you look you can actually see the interface where the pearlite lamellae dissolved together and formed austenite solution. But more interestingly you will still see the ghostly remnants of the lamellae in the form of lines of individual undissolved carbides, looking like stings of black beads in the martensite.

This sample took considerable effort to break, but snapped as if it were fully hard. It cut neat groves down the side of, and ruined, a brand new Nicholson file in just two high pitched passes. Anybody how has ever done a file test would have passed the steel with flying colors. This past weekend some the top names in bladesmithing passed it around an skated a file on it, before I revealed that it was only 47 Rockwell “C”.

One of my greatest frustrations is the old “well it works fine for me” line when it is used to deny heat treating facts. My question has always been “how do you know it works fine” and too often the standard answer has been “it skates a file so I know it got hard”.

5160u2.jpg


Here is another image of the pearlite being broken down into spheroidal structures before going into solution.
 
You'd die of boredom without your microscope !! Reminds me of cheap gears made of 1045. This starts out as a structure of 1/2 ferrite and 1/2 pearlite grains . Then it's hardened with flame or induction which doesn't provide any soak time . It results in the pearlite grains becoming martensite and the ferrite grains remaining ferrite. It works in applications where stresses on the gear are low.
 
Let’s start with 5160 again. If done the way the spec sheets recommend we will heat to 1525F and soak for 1 hour per inch of thickness.

So, this brings to mind a quick question Kevin...In a blade blank where the spine is, let's say 1/4" thick, and the edge at HT time is 1/16" thick, would I want to soak for 7:30, or 3:45?

Basically what I'm getting at is should we soak for the maximum thickness of the work piece, the minimum thickness, or somewhere in-between? I assume that this matters since the measurements given include information about the cross-section to be heat treated, and I'd hate to fall into the normal knifemaker's trap of saying that it "doesn't matter because it's a thin cross section" :)

Thanks,

-d
 
Deker , if you expect the spine to be properly HT'd then soak for spine thickness . That's longer than necessary for the edge but still not long enough to cause problems. Problems are far more related to overheating.
 
Deker , if you expect the spine to be properly HT'd then soak for spine thickness . That's longer than necessary for the edge but still not long enough to cause problems. Problems are far more related to overheating.

That's kind of what I figured, but wanted to verify.

Thanks!

-d
 
Kevin,

Good information! I thank you for the accompanying photos. They really helped to make your points clear. I only had to read it once to understand.:thumbup::D

Fred
 
Kevin you always make my head hurt. Of course if I see you started a thread it is the first one I read. Thanks for pounding this into my head.

Wayne
 
Kevin,

You've probably addressed this elsewhere, but...

Does this mean that testing with a file is pointless?

Why did the steel "pass" the file test when it was only 47 RWC? I'm guessing that there was enough martensite in the structure to make it appear hard, but the fact that there was retained pearlite lowered the real hardness? :confused:

I always enjoy reading your posts, even though I only understand about 17 percent of the content right now... :)

Thanks,
Josh
 
I have also heard tales about shallow hardening steel like W2 appearing to be very hard when testing with a file, but actually only having a "skin" of hard material because a "slow" quenchant was used or the steel self tempered because it wasn't left in the quench long enough. I have noticed that I get much less of the "accidental hamon" with fully quenched W2 blades since I switched from qunching out of the forge with Tough Quench to soaking in the Paragon and quenching in Parks #50.
 
Kevin,

You've probably addressed this elsewhere, but...

Does this mean that testing with a file is pointless?

Why did the steel "pass" the file test when it was only 47 RWC? I'm guessing that there was enough martensite in the structure to make it appear hard, but the fact that there was retained pearlite lowered the real hardness? :confused:

I always enjoy reading your posts, even though I only understand about 17 percent of the content right now... :)

Thanks,
Josh

No Josh, the file test can be very valuable, especially if it is all you have, I use it myself often to give quick check on items before I move on to other tests. You just need to know exactly what it is you are testing for and realize what it is that the test is telling you. Time and time again when discussing topics such as this the same problem seems to arise; bladesmiths assuming that a test is telling them something that it is not. There are two types of hardness involved here, there is scratch hardness and there is penetrative hardness, neither is more valuable than the other but either can become a serious stumbling block to progress if we view them as definitive.

The sample contained around 40% martensite in scattered patches throughout with the remainder being undissolved pearlite, with even some ferrite (low carbon iron) thrown in here or there. As for the discrepancy in readings consider it like this:

Imagine a big block of playdoh with stones mixed in it, a file will hit the tops of the stones and skate and not register the presence of the playdoh at all. But then if you take a big pointed rod and push it into the block it will simply push the stones aside and sink in. Is the block hard or is it soft? Well it is in one sense but not in the other. (on the other hand, flexing the playdoh over the metal rod, could dent the doh or pop the rocks out but it wouldn’t really measure either forms of hardness).

One very disturbing thing to remember is that the martensite that is there is really weak because it is carbon depleted, yet it ruined my file because it is untempered. If we are going to advance as knifemakers we need to abandon this idea that one recipe or one test is all we need in order to deny the reality of the materials we work with in favor of our wishes.

In an earlier thread there was discussion as to whether one could keep those carbides in 5160, well obviously the answer is yes but since you only have .6% carbon total to work with there will have to be a compromise. .6% is around the point where martensite starts to level off in hardness to its maximum at around .8% save too many for carbides and the martensite will have to do without.
 
I have also heard tales about shallow hardening steel like W2 appearing to be very hard when testing with a file, but actually only having a "skin" of hard material because a "slow" quenchant was used or the steel self tempered because it wasn't left in the quench long enough. I have noticed that I get much less of the "accidental hamon" with fully quenched W2 blades since I switched from qunching out of the forge with Tough Quench to soaking in the Paragon and quenching in Parks #50.

The skin effect is what you will get with under-cooling or matters of case hardening, in this case it was a matter of under-soaking (or under-austenitizing if you would prefer), which resulted in s mixed microstructure throughout. Most often during under cooling one will also get scattered colonies of fine pearlite that was made in the slower cooling process as it passed through the 1000F range, but the images above show not fresh pearlite since the piece was cooled more than fast enough, instead it still has the old pearlite from annealing and normalizing left over from insufficient soaking.

What you are experiencing with the better hardening is from the more complete dissolution of carbides. It is a double whammy to leave those undissolved particles everywhere because they then become points of development for the new pearlite to form on cooling. Just like ice will first form around something sticking up through the waters surface, so will pearlite benefit from objects still hanging aroudn within the solution. This is one of the main reasons increasing the soak temperature can increase hardenability, but unfortunately another factor is grain size which will also increase if you use too high a temperature for soaking.
 
No Josh, the file test can be very valuable, especially if it is all you have, I use it myself often to give quick check on items before I move on to other tests. You just need to know exactly what it is you are testing for and realize what it is that the test is telling you. Time and time again when discussing topics such as this the same problem seems to arise; bladesmiths assuming that a test is telling them something that it is not. There are two types of hardness involved here, there is scratch hardness and there is penetrative hardness, neither is more valuable than the other but either can become a serious stumbling block to progress if we view them as definitive.

The sample contained around 40% martensite in scattered patches throughout with the remainder being undissolved pearlite, with even some ferrite (low carbon iron) thrown in here or there. As for the discrepancy in readings consider it like this:

Imagine a big block of playdoh with stones mixed in it, a file will hit the tops of the stones and skate and not register the presence of the playdoh at all. But then if you take a big pointed rod and push it into the block it will simply push the stones aside and sink in. Is the block hard or is it soft? Well it is in one sense but not in the other. (on the other hand, flexing the playdoh over the metal rod, could dent the doh or pop the rocks out but it wouldn’t really measure either forms of hardness).

One very disturbing thing to remember is that the martensite that is there is really weak because it is carbon depleted, yet it ruined my file because it is untempered. If we are going to advance as knifemakers we need to abandon this idea that one recipe or one test is all we need in order to deny the reality of the materials we work with in favor of our wishes.

In an earlier thread there was discussion as to whether one could keep those carbides in 5160, well obviously the answer is yes but since you only have .6% carbon total to work with there will have to be a compromise. .6% is around the point where martensite starts to level off in hardness to its maximum at around .8% save too many for carbides and the martensite will have to do without.

Kevin,

This analogy is great--very clear.

I don't want to take this too far off topic, but what can you take away from the file test? Is it an indication that hardening occurred, but not necessarily an indication of the steel's internal structure?

Right now files are all I have for hardness testing.

Josh
 
Josh don't let this scare you away from files, just allow it to make you aware of the limitations of any given test. If you follow the recommended heat treating for your steel (recommended by the people who made the steel, not the bladesmith down the street) and the file is reading hard, you should be fine. If you get “creative” with your heat treatments then the file alone will not be enough to determine what it is that you are doing to the steel.

There are many, many points to cover and be taken from this steel sample. That files test a different kind of hardness than do Rockwell testers is just one. The effects of soak times is equally as important, but also prior heat treatments before that last one is critical information as well.

Every time we switch steels we need to switch our process and methods, and everything we do to change the internal condition of that same steel will require consideration in what steps we take. Many bladesmiths will say that I am making this sound way too complicated, but in fact it is a very complicated field, just many bladesmiths have limited expectations due the limited tests that they use.
 
If the file test was done on the knife that was forged at the Moran School out of mild had been done it would have told them it was not hard. Instead they put a handle on it and began testing with it. It cut the rope but the edge rolled in the 2x4. Use it for what it is intended for. It will tell you if the steel hardened but like Kevin said it may not tell you if there is mush between the hard spots.
 
This past week end Kevin was our instructor at the Moran School of Bladesmithing in Washington, Arkansas. He did an outstanding job and made good use of a lot of the pics that he has made in testing the heat treats of the different steels. Thanks Kevin, I appreciate it. :thumbup:
He did learn me the right words for what I do, without talking nasty. :) I did find out that I had been doing it right without knowing exactly what was happening to the steel. This was mostly due to good teachers during my early learning phase.
 
If anyone could tell me, it would help if I knew what I am looking at in the pictures above? I am also wondering how one would leave carbides in the 5160. Is this just by not allowing a sufficient soak time?
 
The 'soak ' is there to dissolve carbides and diffuse the carbon throughout the matrix.Only this way will the martensite be saturated and achieve full properties. Soak time for 5160 and other simple steels is fairly short . For complex steel it may be 30 min or more .The photo shows ferrite as white, pearlite as alternating ferrite/carbide lamellar structure and the martensite a uniform grey. The original structure would be just ferrite and pearlite grains.
 
If the file test was done on the knife that was forged at the Moran School out of mild had been done it would have told them it was not hard. Instead they put a handle on it and began testing with it. It cut the rope but the edge rolled in the 2x4. Use it for what it is intended for. It will tell you if the steel hardened but like Kevin said it may not tell you if there is mush between the hard spots.

In the case of this sample it may behave in a somewhat similar fashion, cut fine but then deform when impacting something substantial. That is the difference between the two types of hardenss as it applies to knives. High scratch hardness may allow cutting of soft abrasive materials quite well, in fact it may even cut more aggressivly due to a micro-serration effect developing, but the edge may not take harder materials or serious impact forces quite as well.
 
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