Help me decide which AFFORDABLE knife to buy please!

I'm feeling attached to the Utilitac II already man! It feels a shame to just bail on it now as it seems to be the perfect knife for me as it has the customizable pocket clip and also seems like a great knife overall.. maybe i'll try look around a bit more, then if worse comes to worst i'll have to start looking for a UK knife and ask you guys for some advice :)

If you're thinking the Utilitac II is your ideal knife, you could also just hold off for a while and save up :). Of course, it makes sense to buy from the place cheapest for you, but if its what you're wanting, its worth saving up for it.
 
Anyone have any opinions? I am looking to buy a knife for just average use, as it's my first knife i'm not willing to spend loads of £££ and looking for a fairly affordable one. I have rounded up 3 knives in which I am interested to buy, but the question is which one..

1.) Sanrenmu GB-704
2.) Enlan EL-02B
3.) Ganzo G704

If anyone has any experience with any of these knives please put you're opinions forward and help me decide which one to get!

SORRY IF THIS IS IN THE WRONG PLACE, I'VE NEVER USED A FORUM BEFORE AND I'M REALLY CONFUSED.

Welcome from Western Montana!

I do not know anything about the knives that you posted.

I am sure that you will get some good advice here.

Best wishes to you.

Cate
 
You really should bump your price $10 (or less) and get an Ontario Rat 1 (or 2), or a Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara.
 
Germany has no length limit, but: one hand opener should not lock, locking knife should be two hand opener.

I'd really suggest OP to check the law. EDC general purpose should be below 3" and non locking, thus Spyderco UKPK. The equivalent economy version is Byrd Tern IIRC.
A special purpose tool such as longer blade & locking in a context (such as fishing, camping) might be ok. This (UK Law) is discussed recently on Spyderco.com forum, Off Topic section.

The good thing about Spyderco design (incl Byrd) is that the slip joint has finger choil to prevent getting cut even if the blade closed accidentally.

Hope this helps.
 
You should check the knife laws in the U.K. before you buy a knife that gets confiscated by customs if you order outside the U.K. Also invest in a knife that can be worn and used when you turn 18 . I have a pink Spyderco squeek to carry when i am in the UK, because it's innocent looking and a non locker!
 
Chris "Anagarika";14921351 said:
Germany has no length limit, but: one hand opener should not lock, locking knife should be two hand opener..

If that is the case

Considering the price budget

Boker Magnum makes a few nice options for ya;
3.5" Iron worker, the slightly smaller Kingklip, and even slightly smaller Silver Steel come to mind.

All 2-hand opener locking knives, with deep carry clips. All under $25 us.

Magnum is Boker's low end line, but the 440a steel they use gets razor sharp, just doesn't hold the edge as long, needs more touch ups, but a strop does wonders there to keep it sharp. (It really IMO isn't all that much different from aus8)...

The Boker Magnum Forward is very similar to the utilitac II, minus the thumbstuds (and without a moveable clip). And lastly, a Boker Magnum rescue folder with a strap cutter and glass break can be had rather cheap also...

All of those fit the criteria of bring "two handed" openers that still lock.

*edit - forgot the op is in UK not Germany, and i'm not sure about their laws. Still, more options for op to consider, idk? All this foreign affairs chatter got me off track, but if anyone is looking for a cheap German legal, see above...
 
Last edited:
Just to clarify, I'm no expert, the German law was quoted from memory mentioned by Stefan Schmalhaus (?), BF member from Germany that has plenty YT review.

Hope it helps OP and other newcomers.
 
Right boris. You go on keep thinking that. Just sayin' :thumbup:

Like I said before, there are a lot of good options given to the OP by other people. I would listen to them.

Kozified, have you looked at US places that will ship these knives to you?

Edit to add: I am seeing some Utilitac IIs on the bay that say they ship international. I am not international so I don't know why that wouldn't be an option for you.

Yes sir i've tried that approach already, the P&P seems to cost around $15-$20 which makes you knife just as expensive.. maybe a little bit cheaper.
 
If you're thinking the Utilitac II is your ideal knife, you could also just hold off for a while and save up :). Of course, it makes sense to buy from the place cheapest for you, but if its what you're wanting, its worth saving up for it.

I'll be honest man I have the money for sure, I even have the money to buy a benchmade or some of these top knives, but I really wanted to start on a low budget just to get the feel. I'm a tight a** and really was hoping to keep in a low price range so I feel much more happy with my buy and so I won't have to worry about wasting any money or damaging my knife :)
 
If that is the case

Considering the price budget

Boker Magnum makes a few nice options for ya;
3.5" Iron worker, the slightly smaller Kingklip, and even slightly smaller Silver Steel come to mind.

All 2-hand opener locking knives, with deep carry clips. All under $25 us.

Magnum is Boker's low end line, but the 440a steel they use gets razor sharp, just doesn't hold the edge as long, needs more touch ups, but a strop does wonders there to keep it sharp. (It really IMO isn't all that much different from aus8)...

The Boker Magnum Forward is very similar to the utilitac II, minus the thumbstuds (and without a moveable clip). And lastly, a Boker Magnum rescue folder with a strap cutter and glass break can be had rather cheap also...

All of those fit the criteria of bring "two handed" openers that still lock.

*edit - forgot the op is in UK not Germany, and i'm not sure about their laws. Still, more options for op to consider, idk? All this foreign affairs chatter got me off track, but if anyone is looking for a cheap German legal, see above...

The laws here are fairly close, just we gotta have the blade 3inch or smaller to carry around legally. But seeming as i'm only 15 that law doesn't apply for me till i'm 18 so maybe I might just get a knife with a bigger blade and strictly keep it indoors or on adventures. Then when I turn 18 I'll try find a blade which is in fact legal for me to carry :)
 
Well, fwiw, they^ are all 3"+

Also, while they don't get much love around here, since they were once a respected American brand that went bankrupt and the name was purchased and outsourced to china, I have personally had no issues with Schrade thus far as a cheap brand when considering cost. Their qc dept. may be hit of miss but thus far I've had no major issues, and their warranty dept. (Here in Tennessee) Has been fine. My sch220 has served me well so far as a work knife, cost me $15;


Sch001, 106's, 202, 212, and 214 as well have proven to me at least to be great bargain blades (compared to many other bargain brands), and they use a better quality (higher carbon) steel in many of their models, 9cr"X"mov vs the more commonly used 5c, 7cr, and 8cr14mov's that most cheap Chinese made Knives come in...

Also, fwiw, in my experiences they are often every bit of knife (if not better) "$-for-$" as most your Chinese made entry level Gerber's, Kershaw's, Boker Magnums, etc. and even your entry level Bucks made here in America. I'll even go on record and say my $15 aluminum handle Schrade 220 is a better built and quality knife in every way then my $20 plastic handled Buck Bantam made in the USA. Not that I don't like the Buck, just apples to apples, the Schrade is a better knife, better finish, with a better blade when both are sharp.

And Schrade (Taylor Brands) is way better IMO then any of your other big Chinese productions like Coast, or Frost Cutlery - BudK - smkw owned labels...

It's pure opinion but CRKT I think makes the overall best Chinese made entry level sub $35 production Knives, with their vast diverse collection of design collaborations, but Schrade is right there in the running with everyone else with what you get for what you pay, and you get down to that $20 and lower mark, it's hard to beat what you'll get from Schrade.
 
Last edited:
Kabar Dozier or Rat 2 it's abnormal how much good knife gets stuffed into $20. For a little more the Buck 110 can't be beat. Solid solid knife.
 
Well, fwiw, they^ are all 3"+

Also, while they don't get much love around here, since they were once a respected American brand that went bankrupt and the name was purchased and outsourced to china, I have personally had no issues with Schrade thus far as a cheap brand when considering cost. Their qc dept. may be hit of miss but thus far I've had no major issues, and their warranty dept. (Here in Tennessee) Has been fine. My sch220 has served me well so far as a work knife, cost me $15;


Sch001, 106's, 202, 212, and 214 as well have proven to me at least to be great bargain blades (compared to many other bargain brands), and they use a better quality steel in their models, 9crXmov vs the more commonly used 8cr14mov many Chinese made Knives come in...

That looks nice dude, this may sound dumb but do all of the knives with the 8cr14mov steel mean that they perform the same in sharpness? or is there another factor which depends on the sharpness of the blade, because i've seen reviews saying that one knife is sharper than the other when they BOTH use 8cr14mov.. surely logic says they should perform the same as they are using the exact same steel?

Thanks for the suggestion! seems to be worth looking into as it doesn't have the common Chinese steel. (however which I have heard good feedback about)
 
Kabar Dozier or Rat 2 it's abnormal how much good knife gets stuffed into $20. For a little more the Buck 110 can't be beat. Solid solid knife.

I heard good things about the Rat 2 yet this link really puts me off of it: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AgfctrIRsI1_dERmZ1JQYXhZTUswaEd6ZlZkOUdTemc#gid=0

It says that the Ganzo g704 is better.. and then I hear people saying the Ganzo isn't that good. This is such a hard decision, It looks like the clip is also able to moved into tip up and down down and also used for left users.. Ontario seem to be on point with this ambidextrous use.
 
Kabar Dozier or Rat 2 it's abnormal how much good knife gets stuffed into $20. For a little more the Buck 110 can't be beat. Solid solid knife.

That is true, great little knife right there...
Cheapest I ever see them though $25 (in hand or shipped), usually $25-30 + shipping, but none-the-less it is still an awesome knife for the price... (With a reversible clip too).
 
Kozified you have to take all that you read with a grain of salt. That spreadsheet includes a batonning/chop test. No responsible knife owner is going to baton their regular thing slicey EDC. It's just a really idiotic move. The Dozier and Rat 2 are solid light duty EDC's. They weren't built for digging or prying. I would pick up something with a thicker blade stock for that and I think you mentioned you own a Utilitac? Which is arguably better, not as good as a thick fixed blade like a mora though.

If you aren't looking for a compact, lightweight EDC then the Dozier and Rat 2 ain't it.


I really, really enjoy EDC'ing my Dozier, it's the blue one pictured $22 shipped!

 
Kozified you have to take all that you read with a grain of salt. That spreadsheet includes a batonning/chop test. No responsible knife owner is going to baton their regular thing slicey EDC. It's just a really idiotic move. The Dozier and Rat 2 are solid light duty EDC's. They weren't built for digging or prying. I would pick up something with a thicker blade stock for that and I think you mentioned you own a Utilitac? Which is arguably better, not as good as a thick fixed blade like a mora though.

If you aren't looking for a compact, lightweight EDC then the Dozier and Rat 2 ain't it.


I really, really enjoy EDC'ing my Dozier, it's the blue one pictured $22 shipped!


very valid point! and no sir I was interested in buying a Utilitac :)
I was looking at the Utilitac 2 as it seems like an awesome knife just really hard to find for a good reasonable price over here in the UK. I was mainly looking for a folder, fixed blade wasn't really an option ;) :)
 
Do consider a nice little slipjoint, Rough Rider sells them for under $10. One of my favorite UK legal knives is the Spyderco UK pen knife but it costs a great deal more over there than here.
 
Do consider a nice little slipjoint, Rough Rider sells them for under $10. One of my favorite UK legal knives is the Spyderco UK pen knife but it costs a great deal more over there than here.

Look a bit small to me man, I want a knife that I can take camping or so, I may be wrong but the ones I saw look very tiny :)
 
That looks nice dude, this may sound dumb but do all of the knives with the 8cr14mov steel mean that they perform the same in sharpness? or is there another factor which depends on the sharpness of the blade, because i've seen reviews saying that one knife is sharper than the other when they BOTH use 8cr14mov.. surely logic says they should perform the same as they are using the exact same steel?

Thanks for the suggestion! seems to be worth looking into as it doesn't have the common Chinese steel. (however which I have heard good feedback about)

So, steel type doesn't really determine sharpness (not in the way you're likely thinking anyway). Think of it like this. just because two car engines are made out of the same steel, do they perform the same? What about two different CPU's that are both made out of the same kind of Silicon?

Steel is just one factor in "sharpness".

Here is an attempt at a short explanation.

Steel used helps determine what edge angles (geometry) the knifes blade/edge can support. A better steel can allow for the angles to be "sharper" (more acute) and/or keep the edge longer. The steel also determines other attributes of the blade (how hard it is to sharpen, if it is stainless or carbon steel, and even what type of use the knife is for).

So, in terms of what makes something sharp, its actually geometry (the actual angle of the edge), and how refined the edge is (from your own sharpening). The steel just helps keep that sharp edge (some crappy steels could get very sharp, but the steel is so weak it wouldn't support that acute edge angle, and it would get dull immediately, whereas a nicer steel may be able to keep that same sharp edge for a month).

Does that make any sense?
 
Back
Top