Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

The Skookum Bush Tool is the best design I think I have ever seen.

http://www.skookumbushtool.com/

The blade shape is classic, scandi grind, full tang, lashing holes if wanted, and I have never seen anyone put a butt on like that. It is a nice addition.

I would love to see the Koster twist to this piece.
 
A few thoughts:

Some stuff you should be able to do with the knife:
- cut green branches up to ~2" diameter
- light woodwork - fuzz sticks, fireboard, trap parts, whittle camp gizmos
- food prep, skinning
- split dry wood via batoning (less important if paired with a hatchet/larger blade)
- scraping a sparker

1. "Do-all" knife should be 4" blade, moderately thick stock (1/4"?) Thick enough that you could baton-split things if necessary, but not so thick as to sacrifice cutting ability. A knife that was going to be paired with a hatchet or large chopper could be smaller - 3" blade, 1/8" stock to optimize fine cutting.

2. There should be an index finger groove integrated into the handle, not on the blade. Any handle material between the index and middle finger should be smooth - no sharp point. The edge should come nearly to the handle.

3. Handle should offer some leverage for twisting (helps in splitting). This would favor a fairly wide handle.

4. Blade shape should allow for drilling - probably an elongated spear point.

5. Balance should be near neutral - somewhere in the vicinity of the index finger.

6. Convex edge for a larger blade, scandi for a more speciallized slicing/cutting knife.

7. Materials - people can order what they like, but I'd favor carbon steel (possibly smooth coating), micarta handle, kydex sheath. Easy sharpening would be good.

8. Gadgets - sheath could integrate a loop for a firesteel and some sort of sharpener - diamond plate, small stone, ceramic rod, or mini-steel.
 
briangandrews said:
The Skookum Bush Tool is the best design I think I have ever seen.

http://www.skookumbushtool.com/

The blade shape is classic, scandi grind, full tang, lashing holes if wanted, and I have never seen anyone put a butt on like that. It is a nice addition.

I would love to see the Koster twist to this piece.
Click to expand...

Your right, I love the Skookum Bush Tool. Rod and Mors designed and build a great wilderness tool. I sure hope Dan's bushcraft blade is close to this soon-to-be classic knife.
 
Wow...what a response! :eek:


:thumbup:




The suggestions seem to have some commonalities among them...and so I'm going to post some of my "conclusions" here.

After we hash these out a bit...I'll come up with a drawing. :thumbup:

And we'll take it from there.



This seems to be the general consensus:

1 - Blade length = 4"
2 - Blade thickness = 1/8"
3 - Blade steel type = carbon (probably 1095 or O1)
4 - Grind type = scandi & convex (tied - will offer as an option)
5 - Handle material = micarta

Sheath:
Leather (kydex might remain an option)
firesteel loop
tinder/sharpener pouch


Additional suggestions were:
(by majority)

lanyards
exposed pommel
no choil
thumb ramp
squared spine for striking a firesteel




Thanks for all the help!

Now to the drawing board!! :thumbup:

Dan
 
Same basic shape as a Mora but with a full exposed tang.
4 inch blade of 01 carbon steel 1/8 to 3/16 thick
Canvas Micarta handle attached with three flared tubes
Scandi grind for sure easy field sharpening.
Kydex sheath with firesteel and a cut down DMT Diamond stone riveted to the back.The sheath should have flared tubing all around so you can tie it to any pack or anywhere.
 
I'd like to add my two cents.

IMG_0695.jpg


I would like to see forward serrations on the spine right were the index finger rests using this grip.

And I think that the micarta needs to have some sort of texture to it, a rope pattern or some sort of scale pattern would work.
 
4 inch blade. Green micarta or curly maple handles. Full tang, with a bit sticking out at the end. Flat, scandi, or convex ground. Drop point or clip point. Steel? Carbon steel, D2, or H1. No metal guard, but deep cutouts in the handle for the first two fingers. Jimping on the spine. A choil might be nice, but is not necessary. Leather sheath with a pouch for a firesteel.
 
Ok - here's the first drawing:


#1 & #2
bushcraft1.gif



Specs:
  • 4" blade, 1/8" thick
  • 4.5" handle (including pommel)
  • Top one in drawing is full convex, Bottom one is scandi grind
    (look at the difference out at the tip)
  • Hole upfront near tip (as suggested)
  • 2 corby bolts in the handle (for strength)
  • 2 lanyard holes / lashing holes (one in pommel, one in front of the blade)
  • pommel is in a straight line and centered over the tip
  • no guard or choil....dropped blade instead
  • thumb ramp
  • lightweight, yet sturdy - very portable
  • straight handle - easy to sheath/carry

Let's hear some comments. :thumbup:


Remember, nothing is set in stone here...


Dan
 
I would like to see an index finger groove added to your drawing, Dan. Sheath designed for horizontal carry on the belt...maybe lashing notches for pack carry?
 
I think this is almost perfect. I would like to see the integrated choil in the handle though. I like the idea of a horizontal/vertical sheath in the style I received for my Nessie. Good job Dan! It definitely is looking to be a strong design.:thumbup:
 
I would like to see the mora profile with a full tang, red micarta handle, and a 1/8" thick carbon steelblade. This would be a very simple classic design. You could call it "The America Mora".

 
Dan, why are there holes in the blade?

Other than that, I maybe would make the handle straighter with the blade, and more symetrical from front to back, same width and thickness.

Looking good!

Andy
 
I like the first drawing - personally I think a flat ground blade would be preferrable to a scandi or other type grind.
 
how about this one?


#3
bushcraft2.gif



100% symmetrical (except for the scandi grind)
 
The first drawings nailed the food prep part of the equation. Extend the micarta over the pommel and it would be a great kitchen/steak knife. For the woodcraft part I would prefer a palm swell, top and bottom, in the vertical dimension and some more thickness in the scales, 1/16" additional each side.
 
The second one is getting close but needs a bit of shape to the handle to stop the hand sliding into the blade !
I also think that the blade should be 5/32" rather than 1/8" so it can take a little more abuse !!!


Looking good !!!!!
 
I like where that is going... both pitdog and EIDO have good suggestions. Contour the handle like they suggested, add a bit more thickness and belly to the blade, and by god you are almost there! Convex grind, please!

:thumbup::thumbup:

Just me, but I would want a 5" blade.....

Andy
 
Dan,
I like your last drawing, but the handle just needs alittle more contour. I like the mora handle in my post.
 
Dan,
I do like it better without the holes in the blade. I am not sure what the purpose of them would be, but no holes defnitely looks better if nothing else. Also, less food to get in blade holes and have to clean up. All in all, less maintenance without the holes.

I am going to chime in and say to please stay with 1/8, not 5/32. Edge geometry (and sharpness) is very important, arguably the most important factor, in being able to cut finely. If someone is going to break it at 1/8, they will likely break it at 5/32 as well. Please keep her at 1/8.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top