Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

I like blade number 2 but lose the holes. I also like the handle of the canadian belt knife.
belt knife

After looking at your website this Karda looks like a nice bushcraft knife.

K2KardaRedwood1.jpg
 
These are 5/32" thick.


1/8" is plenty for a scandi-grind knife.
5/32" would be required for full-flat or full-convex grind.
 
I would go with a Scandi and the thinner blade myself but I am not sure that would be the best choice as a maker. If you spend money on a nice knife for "Bushcraft" a lot of folk might think that means it should be able to stand up to any punishment. With the thicker knife you would probably get fewer broken and less hassle over all.
 
I like the full convex grind, with the one hole near the handle. The handle in profile is nice, but I would like it thicker in cross section towards the butt than the front of the handle.
 
Ok...here's #4


a mod on #2



I want to keep this as simple as possible - and easy to put together, etc. Even considering bolt-on handles (removable). What do you guys think?

#4
ACAD-bushcraft1.jpg



  • No holes in the blade (the more I think about this...the less I like it. especially a hole close to the handle. That's the favorite place for knives to break: handle/blade junction.
  • scandi grind only, 1/8" thick steel. 5/32" will be tougher, but also heavier, more expensive and possible too thick for a scandi grind - which seems to be the way to go.
  • I thickened up the handle at the front (made it taller top to bottom)
I'm not against the ideas posted here...just trying to pick out the ones that will most easily/quickly fit into the toolery I have now...and my work flow, etc. Also, ones that will not only keep costs under control...but maybe even make it less expensive to make. For example, the scandi grind with a forged-finish is an easy knife to make and greatly lowers costs. I wouldn't want this on all knives...but on a bushcraft...it would be nice.

I'm thinking I'd like to keep this maybe even under $100....! :eek:


So, let's move toward that goal....simple, easy to use, easy to sharpen, good steel, user-grade finish, tough materials, etc.


removable handles might also save me some time/money....glue-up takes time.



As it stands now...the scandi-ground nessmuks take less than 2 hours of labor (removing tempering time and down-time, and doing them in batches).

Ideally...I'd like to get this down to a one-hour knife....would be pretty cool, eh? ;)


Just thinkin' out loud. Let's hear more ideas.

:thumbup:



Dan
 
Daniel Koster said:
Ok...here's #4


a mod on #2



I want to keep this as simple as possible - and easy to put together, etc. Even considering bolt-on handles (removable). What do you guys think?

#4
ACAD-bushcraft1.jpg



  • No holes in the blade (the more I think about this...the less I like it. especially a hole close to the handle. That's the favorite place for knives to break: handle/blade junction.
  • scandi grind only, 1/8" thick steel. 5/32" will be tougher, but also heavier, more expensive and possible too thick for a scandi grind - which seems to be the way to go.
  • I thickened up the handle at the front (made it taller top to bottom)
I'm not against the ideas posted here...just trying to pick out the ones that will most easily/quickly fit into the toolery I have now...and my work flow, etc. Also, ones that will not only keep costs under control...but maybe even make it less expensive to make. For example, the scandi grind with a forged-finish is an easy knife to make and greatly lowers costs. I wouldn't want this on all knives...but on a bushcraft...it would be nice.

I'm thinking I'd like to keep this maybe even under $100....! :eek:


So, let's move toward that goal....simple, easy to use, easy to sharpen, good steel, user-grade finish, tough materials, etc.


removable handles might also save me some time/money....glue-up takes time.



As it stands now...the scandi-ground nessmuks take less than 2 hours of labor (removing tempering time and down-time, and doing them in batches).

Ideally...I'd like to get this down to a one-hour knife....would be pretty cool, eh? ;)


Just thinkin' out loud. Let's hear more ideas.

:thumbup:



Dan
Click to expand...

This is looking very good, Dan! :thumbup:
 
Daniel Koster said:
Ok...here's #4


a mod on #2



I want to keep this as simple as possible - and easy to put together, etc. Even considering bolt-on handles (removable). What do you guys think?

#4
ACAD-bushcraft1.jpg



  • No holes in the blade (the more I think about this...the less I like it. especially a hole close to the handle. That's the favorite place for knives to break: handle/blade junction.
  • scandi grind only, 1/8" thick steel. 5/32" will be tougher, but also heavier, more expensive and possible too thick for a scandi grind - which seems to be the way to go.
  • I thickened up the handle at the front (made it taller top to bottom)
I'm not against the ideas posted here...just trying to pick out the ones that will most easily/quickly fit into the toolery I have now...and my work flow, etc. Also, ones that will not only keep costs under control...but maybe even make it less expensive to make. For example, the scandi grind with a forged-finish is an easy knife to make and greatly lowers costs. I wouldn't want this on all knives...but on a bushcraft...it would be nice.

I'm thinking I'd like to keep this maybe even under $100....! :eek:


So, let's move toward that goal....simple, easy to use, easy to sharpen, good steel, user-grade finish, tough materials, etc.


removable handles might also save me some time/money....glue-up takes time.



As it stands now...the scandi-ground nessmuks take less than 2 hours of labor (removing tempering time and down-time, and doing them in batches).

Ideally...I'd like to get this down to a one-hour knife....would be pretty cool, eh? ;)


Just thinkin' out loud. Let's hear more ideas.

:thumbup:



Dan
Click to expand...

Dan d'ya think you could keep the bottom of the blade level with the handle but maybe shape the handle to form a guard maybe a little like this pic below....

dan.jpg


5/32" Convex sounds good !!!
 
lefthandblack said:
Ok, here is my idea for the Koster Bushcraft blade. Here are the specs,

Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
Blade Length: 5 Inches
Blade Steel: 5160
Hardness: 58rc
Blade Thickness: 3/16 Inch
Weight: 7 Ounces
Grind: Full Convex

kosterbushcraft1.jpg
Click to expand...

I like the looks of that. Dig the thumb ramp.

Dan it seems a lot of people want the blade flush with the handle. I think Fiddleback did a great job with this Scandi Bushcraft blade.

824c7c0a.jpg
 
ilbruche said:
I like the looks of that. Dig the thumb ramp.

Dan it seems a lot of people want the blade flush with the handle. I think Fiddleback did a great job with this Scandi Bushcraft blade.

824c7c0a.jpg
Click to expand...


Not a bad design bro but why 5160. Spring steel is ideal for a big chopper but not IMO a Bushcraft knife.
I would go with CPM3V or 51200,A2,01 or even 1095 etc !!!!
 
Don't forget, he wants to keep cost down as per his earlier post. Some of those steel choices are going to be pricey, either in material, labor to work, or both.
 
I think that the #3 knife is the best design for the bushcraft knife so far. The reason I think that is because I own puukko knives that are similar to that design and those knives are great at working with wood, which is the primary job that a bushcraft knife will have to do(making traps, shelter,fuzz sticks etc...). I own knives that are similar to design 1 and 2 and they just are not as good as the more basic puukko design for making traps and such. As far as food prep gos I think that your nessmuk knife really fits that bill rather nicely. Please don't put any holes in the blade. The handle should bulge slightly at the center and taper at both ends. An oval cross section of the handle would make that knife just about perfect.:)
 
You have some good stuff going on. I still like 1 and 2. I hope you get some happy customers, but since I despise Moras and it's like, I'll stick with your work that has guards and are a bit thicker.;):thumbup:
 
i like the dall deweese knife by marbles. it is a good hunting/bushcraft knife design. 1095 hc steel. nice stag handles,razor sharp, solid, simple, light weight. i think thats one way to go
 
marbles introduced the knife in 1902 i believe. deweese was a big game hunter, who hunted with teddy roosevelt. he also dug up dinosuars and such things. this is a knife he designed or had designed years ago.
 
If it were me I would add some belly to the handle and give it a nice contoured ergonomic grip. I would also shorten the extended tang and make it less 'pointy', or get rid of it all together.

You should try to avoid a non-contoured handle to edge configuration like depicted in picture #3, you should try bringing the edge down a little and allowing a ‘ditch’ for the index finger to lay, this will help prevent hand slippage without getting in the way as a finger guard will.

Here is one of my own design that has worked very well for me. The dimensions are roughly 4” blade with a 4.5” handle. If you avoid the hollow pins this design would be fairly cost efficient to make:

dbashdfk.png


BushcraftKnife.jpg


I would prefer a convex with 4 mm thickness this allows for a great deal of strength without limiting needed cutting potential. I also think that a scandi in a 1/8"~ would work very well and should be easier for you to make.

Just my $0.02. :D

Thanks for such a great offer, Cheers!
~ Wabajack
 
Wabajack,
I really like the design, just add scandi gind and it would be perfect. :thumbup::D
 
i drew up my own plans as soon as i find my camera cable i will post them its a little over 1/8th thick 10.5 inches long 5 1/2 handle 5 for blade scandi slight handle shape except no but cap and a slight pommel with lanyard hole and a cheap durable WOOD handle or maybe a handle it yourself kinda affair in other words something cheaper but same stlye as the Ray Mears bushcraft knife OR a big honkin scandi chopper witha small utility type blade on the sheath
 
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