Dan Gray said:
sure you can,,, it's done all the time. you just clean your chimney out more often
It produces little heat, especially with the woods we have, maybe cedar would burn well wet, spruce and pine just smoulder, you can see the water boiling out of them. You can put them in an inch+ bed of red coals and they will not burn, even if you open the draft full, they just hiss.
The only way to get them to burn effectively is to split them up a lot to get the surface area up, but sensibly you just dry them out right next to the stove. Even a day or two of such concentrated drying makes a difference, a week makes them half decent.
If all you have is wet though it takes a while to get the stove going, plus it is just wasteful, you use much more wood trying to get the same amount of heat, and it takes much more physical work to do it. So if I was buying wood I would get it seasoned, and which is why most people cutting wood have 1-2 years cut down.
There is a balance though, pine which is fully seasoned is blasty and burns like cardboard, spruce is better, birch and oak more so, but there is little to none of that here.
...it's still 2nd hand info. as far as 1095 vs. SS
Yeah, I have no reason to doubt Alvin though. It isn't like he is selling anything. He just makes what gives the best performance. I really don't see why Mike would make up stuff to support him. Plus it correlates well with what I have seen in regards to edge retention and what I have discussed with Wilson. Plus he would be kind of mental to make it all up and then send his knives out, of course it could all be a mass conspiracy.
cliff why are you editing your above posts?
I left out the drill press bit. The post was :
"Actually serious, check rec.knives for the full details."
I added the followup about the drill press in an edit instead of making a new post. I also correct spelling mistakes constantly as I had to do to this one.
can you sent it to me to look it over..?
Sure. If you just want to look at it and not cut with it I can send it to you before I use it because as noted I am not sure of what it will do in that profile so it may break while I am figuring that out.
I was concerned I was going to break the paring knife Alvin made when I was using it as a general utility knife, it turned out to be a lot more durable than I expected. No real concerns cutting wise, outside of metals or bone.
The most important thing is no leveraging or twisting of the blade when it is in something on a partial cut. For general utility you also want to watch inclusions, heavy staples and such.
-Cliff