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Cliff you invest so much time and energy in knives, why not just buy a decent grinder and learn to do it yourself?
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Trace Rinaldi said:Cliff you invest so much time and energy in knives, why not just buy a decent grinder and learn to do it yourself?
Because buying decent equipment and supplies is costly. I just don't understand the logic behind all your theroies Cliff. Why take a perfectly well made knife and change it? I agree with Trace, it seems you have alot of ideas rolling around in your head. With your knowledge of knivesTrace Rinaldi said:Cliff you invest so much time and energy in knives, why not just buy a decent grinder and learn to do it yourself?
Because it isn't perfect for what I want it to do and the grind adjustment might improve it, plus it would produce information about the grind regardless.Razorback - Knives said:Why take a perfectly well made knife and change it?
Because I only have so much time and I would rather spend it using the knives than making them. I have reground a lot of knives, I enjoy using them more than altering them. I take the money I make and give it to the guys doing what they enjoy so I have time to do what I enjoy, makes more sense to me that way. Plus you learn a lot working with experienced makers like Wilson, Johnson, Cashen, etc., who are essentially experimentalists at heart.Trace Rinaldi said:Cliff you invest so much time and energy in knives,
Because it is hardly sensible to buy a hollow grinder to adjust this one knife. If I had a near constant demand for such modifications like I do with flat and convex edges then I would have picked up a wet wheel grinder years ago when I got a belt sander...why not just buy a decent grinder
At what hardness in what edge profile? Alvin compared standard ATS-34 at ~60 HRC to full hard 1095 in profiles mentioned in the above with the ATS-34 heat treated by Paul Bos. The comparisons were not done by him always either, as noted they were by many friends who were working tradesmen, who could not care either way which knife worked best.Dan Gray said:I will guaranty that 154cm done right will have much better edge retention than 1095
When it is done.Dan Gray said:When can you send me the knife to look over,??
The edge holding will be less in some respects because the durability is a lot less, however for the materials I mentioned it isn't a factor on tool steels as the functional limit for the durablity is really low. The lifetime of the cutting ability will be likely greatly increased as the baseline cutting performance should increase significantly, plus it gains in ease of sharpening.howiesatwork said:If you do get a blade of SGPS ground like the paring knife in your example, it will gain in flexibility.
No increase in edge holding, and a more fragile edge are some drawbacks.
The edge is all core steel anyway, there is no gain in laminating a blade this small anyway (aside from cosmetic surface corrosion), it is mainly manufacturer cost which is the reason the Japanese do it for such blades, or did it origionally anyway.It will prove nothing for the properties of the laminated blade steel.
What ones have you used, in what way did they fail to perform as described?howiesatwork said:I'm not all that impressed with his knives.
rhrocker said:I think Cliff is one of us. Notice that he doesn't get ruffled with the questions, but only makes statments back. Not sure what's going on here, but I'm rather enjoying watching you guys joust back and forth.
And you know what, it will continue to do so with nothing accomplished.rhrocker said:I think Cliff is one of us. Notice that he doesn't get ruffled with the questions, but only makes statments back. Not sure what's going on here, but I'm rather enjoying watching you guys joust back and forth.
What are you cutting, and how did you harden it?Dan Gray said:1095 full hard is too hard to keep an edge
Cliff Stamp said:Found a maker, no problems, will be done sometime after Blade, no rush, told the maker to get around to it when he can.
-Cliff
Cliff Stamp said:What are you cutting, and how did you harden it?
-Cliff
I could tell you but then you would have to be screeched in. As for time frame, assume a couple of weeks after blade, then a couple of weeks for the mail to reach me, then a couple of weeks for it to reach you.Dan Gray said:Cliff ... who's doing it?
Details? And what material did you cut with so that the 1095 blade showed poor edge retention, and by what method of edge failure did it blunt?in house H/T
Try it, I'll send you the modified U2 and you can let us know how they compare.c.m. arrington said:If you reforged the blade with really wide fullers, wouldn't it be superior to just grinding them?
They would cut the same as they would be the same geometry, the edge retention, durabilty and so on would depend on how you heat treated it after you forged it.c.m. arrington said:wouldn't the forged one be far superior to the ground one?
The cutting ability would assuming they are the same shape you can of course forge it to a different shape, but c.m. stated :howiesatwork said:Actually, it wouldn't be the same.
If it doesn't remove metal it doesn't get lighter.Forging in a fuller does not strengthen a blade. It effectively lightens a blade without removing metal.
screeched in ??Cliff Stamp said:I could tell you but then you would have to be screeched in. As for time frame, assume a couple of weeks after blade, then a couple of weeks for the mail to reach me, then a couple of weeks for it to reach you.
-Cliff
on many deer, both field dressing and working them right up to the meat grinder. and the word of many customers.Cliff Stamp said:Details? And what material did you cut with so that the 1095 blade showed poor edge retention, and by what method of edge failure did it blunt?
-Cliff
that would create them all equalS.Shepherd said:..............come on Dan, we all know the only worthy test medium for a knife is cinder block.....![]()
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