I thought these were overbuilt? Direware lock fail (brand new knife)

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just found this. this is the same guy that showed the recent world of ZT lock failures (the same as the one you showed in your vid with the direware).


In any case your Direware has lock geometry issues just like some zt's. It could be all of them or just that one. Who knows. How many people that you asked actually own a Direware let alone used it or spine tapped it?
 
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This is why I think the “Beta Plus Lock” addition that both Ruike and Real Steel use on their framelocks is kind of cool. You slide the tab/button up, and it will not allow the lockbar to move no matter how you’re using the knife. While I don’t personally find this necessary when using a knife correctly, it’s still a neat little innovation that soothes my OCD tendencies when it comes to things like this.

OP, you should check out the (locked) ZT thread that discusses failing frame/liner locks at length. You might find it interesting.

The issue is that yes those beta locks and lionsteel rotoblock locks will do something to prevent the lockbar from popping completely open in a catrastrophic failure.

However for example the lionsteel rotolock only pushes directly up against the lockbar so far. For example say past 25% lockup the rotolock can no longer be tightened anymore and will no longer have direct contact with the lockbar. It will still sit off to the side and may prevent the lock from opening completely. However lets say the lock is worn in to 40% and something hits the spine of the knife hard(ie batoning). The lockface will take all the force of that hit and might be damaged. The lock will take the hit and try to slide open until it reaches where it would lockup at 25% and hopefully be stopped by the rotoblock. You will end up with a knife with lockrock.

Basically in short those secondary locks may prevent the lock from failing by completely unlocking to a certain ammount of force but they do not make the lock itself any stronger.
 
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Kinda strange you got that blade shape tbo for the tasks you talked about in the other thread. It's also a frame lock... Not idea for your tasks either as we mentioned.

Direware would likely fix your problem. I doubt any one uses them other than in a safe or to cut paper.

ZT has lock failures like that and everyone says it's a non issue. So go figure. Your probably not gonna have a problem. Though yea alot of frame locks have this issue occasionally if it's not done right nor tested by the maker. I doubt anyone actually uses a 1000 knife. Maybe to stick it in a tree like Heeter Nation.

In any case yea you should return it for another one that doesn't have the issue and make sure that direware test it first. But think your idea is kinda bogus from the start of your first thread about this topic to now.


Don't you never yap at Direware Nation.

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To echo what already has been said, for the money it should be near perfect. Definitely send it back for either a refund or one that doesn't do THAT. I used to really love those designs but my tastes have changed a lot over the years. The overbuilt look has just run its course in my opinion. Aesthetically unique and certainly has a cool factor, but for all intents and purposes and for the sake of practicality, I'd rather just save up for a Demko if I need a real hard use, overbuilt FOLDER. For all the other hard work I'm just gonna use a fixed blade. Granted this is A way. Not THE way.
 
Unfortunately you can make the handles out of as thick titanium as you like. It only creates the illusion of strength. A framelock knife’s strength in terms of lock up is all dependant on its lock geometry. It is not something that seems easy for many companies to get right unfortunately. Even if the lock were to never fail all that thick handle is for show really. The titanium would bend at the lockbar cutout where it is the thinnest.

If you want the strongest folding knife possible you have to get the strongest folding knife lock. Without a doubt that has shown time and again to be the Andrew Demko triad lock.

Now for 1000$ I assume you want a knife that is nicer than a cold steel. You should look at the Andrew Demko AD10. That folding knife will be among the strongest locking knives on the market with the only competition being other Demko or cold steel knives which feature the Triad lock.

Return that unsightly titanium brick. Framelocks and linerlocks can be great knives but I would never count them among the strongest.

Exactly this. If you want real folder strength that isnt just for show and you have the budget for it, buy Demko. This thing cost me an arm and a leg, but its thick where it needs to be and he hand ground it to be thin behind the edge still so she cuts great. Not just a sharpened pry bar.

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Can we just make an announcement to please stop testing lock without thick gloves or making sure you have secured an obstruction between your hand fingers and potential path of the blade. I understand many people's knives are dull but but centrifugal force driving an edge. can make short work of digits.
 
Why are we so shocked that a folding knife folds. No matter what lock you have on these, any lock can disengage, they are designed to do so. The more so when you are working in real world conditions where the mechanism can become contaminated by all sorts of filth.

Folding knives are convenient tools. Use them reasonably and with care and you will be fine and you will have a very useful tool. But, go ape on them, be reckless and you may soon be injured.

No matter which category of quality tool we are talking about, learn to use it, use it with care and take care of it, and it will serve you well for a lifetime. No matter the merit of the tool it is the user who does the work and who is responsible for the safe use of their tools.

n2s
 
Why are we so shocked that a folding knife folds. No matter what lock you have on these, any lock can disengage, they are designed to do so. The more so when you are working in real world conditions where the mechanism can become contaminated by all sorts of filth.

Folding knives are convenient tools. Use them reasonably and with care and you will be fine and you will have a very useful tool. But, go ape on them, be reckless and you may soon be injured.

No matter which category of quality tool we are talking about, learn to use it, use it with care and take care of it, and it will serve you well for a lifetime. No matter the merit of the tool it is the user who does the work and who is responsible for the safe use of their tools.

n2s

Locking folding knives are designed to fold closed when the lock is manually disengaged.
 
If you want something a little more unique than a lockback, check out the demko AD15 with scorpion lock. Or get a fixed blade for woodcrafty type stuff.

Has anyone done tests comparing the strength of the scorpion lock to the strength of the triad lock? I would be very curious to see those results.

Exactly this. If you want real folder strength that isnt just for show and you have the budget for it, buy Demko. This thing cost me an arm and a leg, but its thick where it needs to be and he hand ground it to be thin behind the edge still so she cuts great. Not just a sharpened pry bar.

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Do you think 1000$ could net him some version of the Demko AD10? That is exactly the knife I would recommend to the thread creator.
 
Has anyone done tests comparing the strength of the scorpion lock to the strength of the triad lock? I would be very curious to see those results.



Do you think 1000$ could net him some version of the Demko AD10? That is exactly the knife I would recommend to the thread creator.

I don't think they can be had for $1000, they are around $1300 but if i were OP is i only had $1000 i'd grab Demko's AD-15, or save a little longer or sell a few beaters and grab an AD10, there's really nothing like it out there, the Demko's are just something else.
 
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