If you had to take one knife to war

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Black Jack TacOps 6 and a SOG Trident out of my collection.

But the possibilities are endless almost with this question lol.

But if I had to choose they would probably be a Blackjack model 1-7 and a Sebenza.

Or a SOG Seal Team, paired with the Trident again.

The SOG would be the most "worry free" knife as far as corrosion or damage goes.
 
Jeru said:
Not judging, but just being surprised, that so many real soldiers mentioning light weight and mentioning carrying a 7.2 oz Buck 110 folding hunter in the same sentence (weight without sheath/pouch). For 7.2 oz you can get a lot more tools with a lighter multi-tool, or more strength with a lighter fixed blade.

Just to name a few:

Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Spartan 2.1 oz
Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Camper 2.6 oz
Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Climber 3.0 oz
Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Ranger 4 oz
Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Swiss Champ 6.5 oz

Leatherman Rebar 6.7 oz
Leatherman Sidekick 7.0 oz
Leatherman Wingman 7.0 oz

ESEE-3 5.2 oz
Bark River Gunny 5.6 oz
Bark River Bravo 1 LT 6.6 oz
Fällkniven F1 6.0 oz
Fällkniven PRK 6.0 oz
Fällkniven S1 6.7 oz
Spyderco Street Beat 3.2 oz
Spyderco Aqua 4.2 oz
Spyderco Lum Tanto 4.7 oz
Survive GSO 4.1 6.5 oz
Chris Reeve Nyala 6.2 oz
SYKCO 511 6.3 oz
Busse Mean Street 7.0 oz

Fixed blade weights without sheaths though.
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A very good point that you make, but I have a fixed blade configuration that beats them all in blade length/weight for a given blade thickness, and, if not a world beater in usefulness, definitely military-themed:

Junglas Waterloo: Full 3/16" blade thickness, 6.9" blade length, and not a fragile geometry point: 6.8 ounces for 6.9" of blade: More blade length in inches than weight in ounces, this at a full 3/16" stock and with a robust point...: A major overlooked inherent advantage of daggers... Try to beat that in 3/16" stock with a silver-soldered metal guard...:

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If I had to take one knife to war, it would be something thin-edged (0.5 mm as here), stainless steel, 7.5 to 8", and, most importantly, without much belly near the point. Very much like this Special Warfare: Bellies near the point almost always open the edge bevel, and make the entire knife's point nearly useless, except for twisting and prying: I'd leave that to tools...:

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Gaston
 
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I'd go a KaBar Swabbie so I could open my rations in style..



..and for the folder I'd take this thing..



But in all seriousness though tueller had the exact same idea as me. BK17 with a Leatherman in the front pouch..
 
Would anyone go with a titanium knife? They won't rust, they seem to be pretty light, and they're supposed to be good for deactivating magnetically-detonated mines (whatever that means). Probably have to be a custom job, as I've never seen a titanium knife that didn't have that pain-in-the-ass serration right at the start of the blade (where you do most of whatever carving that comes up). Woukld be pretty rought to spend about $500 on a knife that you can't use smoothly in the woods, however serious that situation is or isn't.

Never got why they don't just put the saws on the back of the knife as a general thing. It wouldn't be that hard to leave a spot for your thumb right by the handle & it could even be a section with different-sized wire breaker notches.

Now that I'm thinking about it, a good 6"-7" titanium knife with a wire-breaker/saw section & a little bit of a swoop on the front of the blade toward the end (so it's somewhat kukuri-ish like the Cold Steel Spartan, whatever that's called) would be pretty interesting. Then again, maybe it's more versatile to have the hole in the blade like on the AK bayonet for wire-cutting?

Are there any non-conductive metals? Maybe one of those in a knife shaped like above?
 
Folder: benchmade 275

Fixed blade: busee team Gemini or battle mistress (hell if i just say what knife and its given to me sure why not), or a smatchet would be a close second :D
 
Wolfeye said:
Would anyone go with a titanium knife?
Are there any non-conductive metals? Maybe one of those in a knife shaped like above?
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Well.... it might be difficult to keep one decently sharp---
non conductive, hah, i doubt it


Serrations do indeed suck for practically everything i do, i recently got a nice KA-BAR 1271 to compliment my other enhanced tang figher model, i could see that as a decent war choice, the poor thing has been defiled with serrations though
 
From knives I own, a ZT 350 and Ranger RD6.

From stealing other folks nicer stuff, a ZT 560 or Benchmade Adamas and Busse ASH 1 LE. I don't know much about higher end, heavy duty knives. ZT has a rep for toughness and so does Busse's INFI steel so I'm guessing here.
 
Victorinox Swiss Tool, hard to beat for the size of the thing, and with 2 blades.
Fixed would be a 10" Raw Panawal from Khukuri House.
 
For a fixed blade, the Glock 81 Field Knife. It's tough, made for combat duty, and is low cost so you wouldn't feel too bad leaving it behind if it comes down to that. Can chop, pry, pick at things, sharpen it on a rock if needed.

For a folder, Spyderco Paramilitary 2 for the same reasons as everyone else mentioned.
 
marcinek said:
Folder? Leatherman.



Of course, my choices would be different if I had to take 1 folder and 1 fixed blade knife to war against Magneto.
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They'd have to be 100% ceramic, or maybe glass, obsidian, etc.

If I really had to go up against Magneto, I'd use a hadouken.
 
Wolfeye said:
Would anyone go with a titanium knife? They won't rust, they seem to be pretty light, and they're supposed to be good for deactivating magnetically-detonated mines (whatever that means). Probably have to be a custom job, as I've never seen a titanium knife that didn't have that pain-in-the-ass serration right at the start of the blade (where you do most of whatever carving that comes up). Woukld be pretty rought to spend about $500 on a knife that you can't use smoothly in the woods, however serious that situation is or isn't.

Never got why they don't just put the saws on the back of the knife as a general thing. It wouldn't be that hard to leave a spot for your thumb right by the handle & it could even be a section with different-sized wire breaker notches.

Now that I'm thinking about it, a good 6"-7" titanium knife with a wire-breaker/saw section & a little bit of a swoop on the front of the blade toward the end (so it's somewhat kukuri-ish like the Cold Steel Spartan, whatever that's called) would be pretty interesting. Then again, maybe it's more versatile to have the hole in the blade like on the AK bayonet for wire-cutting?

Are there any non-conductive metals? Maybe one of those in a knife shaped like above?
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Nonconductive metals? Sure. Lead.

Lead is a revolutionary knife metal. Nobody’s ever used it before.

On the down side, lead knives don’t hold an edge worth a damn.

Even worse, try to sharpen a lead knife and it clogs files and whetstones.

It’s also hard to make a lightweight knife out of lead.

Use it as a pry bar and it just bends.

Melt it and the gas is poisonous.

Other than that, lead is a fine, nonconductive blade material. :D
 
Speaking of different knife materials, has anyone ever heard of a cobalt knife? I remember hearing something about that (at least, I'm pretty sure it was cobalt) WAY back, but I never found much about it.

Those Glock Field Knives are pretty interesting. I like what it can do, but have to ask: Does the blade ever come out of the handle? Seems like it could under some force, but then it does seem pretty solid- even if it's not the strongest STYLE of design.
 
Just thought of a good one: What about that Spetsnaz knife that shoots a (possibly silenced) bullet out of the handle? If it works well as a general work knife & preferably as a bayonet, I'd change my AK bayonet answer to that. Might do it anyway, actually.
 
Wolfeye said:
Just thought of a good one: What about that Spetsnaz knife that shoots a (possibly silenced) bullet out of the handle? If it works well as a general work knife & preferably as a bayonet, I'd change my AK bayonet answer to that. Might do it anyway, actually.
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I don't know, I'd prefer my knives to cut and my rifle to shoot the bullets.

I honestly don't know if this thread is based in fantasy land or a presumed real world scenario. But a lot of these suggestions are not very well thought out. Sorry guys, but a 2 pound Busse isn't appropriate on a ship, plane, helo, armor, urban combat or any realistic scenario where you are toting guns, ammo and a belt and pack full of gear. They are nice to chop at trees in the back yard but that's about it.

Anyone who is seriously considering what knife to bring if they are entering the military or about to be deployed take particular notice of what some of the actual veterans said that they have carried in this thread and don't put too much thought into ninja swords, bullet knives or any other fantasy stuff. It also might be interesting to take note of some of the actual knives that have been issued to the military to get some ideas.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_individual_weapons_of_the_U.S._Armed_Forces

When I was in I regularly toted an M-14 and it's very heavy 7.62 20 round magazines, a Beretta 92 with spare mags, armor, helmet, radio etc. Guns, gear, water and ammo is very heavy when all added up and a super heavy tank of a fixed blade just isn't realistic. If I ever had to go back I'd take an SMF in a secure MOLLE pouch.
 
Of course it's got to be made right here in U.S.A, I would never go to war but here's my list anyway.

Fixed Blade

Ka-bar USMC...
Hey it was used in WWII
ka-barlgknife-lg.jpg


Folder

Buck Vantage Force Pro

BU0847BKS.jpg
 
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