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If you were forced to use a folder for fixed blade jobs, what would you trust?

Chris Larrikin said:
Probably a Svord Peasant. Takes an good edge, holds it well and like the awesome friction folder clutchjunkie has it's basically a folding fixed blade with a thinner tang. There isn't much to break on it and the blade functions perfectly well without the handle scales. Although I would want to give the edge a regrind before it went into the survival bag.
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Beat me to it by 2 posts, I was going to say the Svord Peasant sounds like the answer.
 
Have you tried the ZT 560 or 561? How are the different from your 550? I'm considering these models. I own several Spartan and Eickhorn fixed blades, but no folders.
 
I've got a few really tough folders from Zero Tolerance, Benchmade, Spderco, Cold Steel and so on, they would probably survive quite a bit of punishment. However, if I couldn't have a fixed blade in an emergency, I think I'd rather have a SAK or multitool than a single blade folder.

The extra tools make them a lot more useful and also save the cutting blade from additional wear and tear. If I only had a 0550 to build a shelter or fix something in the field, it would get the job done, but my humble OHT would make it easier with its saw and other features. Even if the blade steel is inferior.

Modern folders are cool, I enjoy carrying and using them, but to me they are just urban EDC tools. I guess it's a cultural thing as well, since traditional knives in my country are all fixed blades and folders are viewed as toys.
 
For anything except extended battoning I think my LionSteel would do fine.



I think some people focus too much on fragile tips. Losing a couple of mm won't really alter much of a knife's usability.
 
I would go Tri-Ad lock, or a framelock that I could lock in place, then leave it there (Lion Steel/DPX).

BTW, nice blade ClutchJunkie. That turned out well. I'm making something similar at the moment. Took my go-to fixed blade and making into a beefy friction folder.
 
Cold Steel Pocket Bushman. Which is convenient since I EDC one anyway.
 
Any of the cold steels triad lock or ZT 0200. I thought about BMs contego or adamas but in my own experience, their locking mechanism fails when great vibration from batoning or chopping is applied. Spyderco's ball bearing lock would be a great option without BM's weakness.
 
NoFair said:
I think some people focus too much on fragile tips. Losing a couple of mm won't really alter much of a knife's usability.
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I was hoping someone would say that. Took the words out of my mouth. In a true SHTF scenario it's not going to matter if your blade has a super pointy tip. I'd use my PM2 in a heartbeat. I'd also rely on my Ritter Grip which is my other daily carry
 
Hawk45 said:
I would go Tri-Ad lock, or a framelock that I could lock in place, then leave it there (Lion Steel/DPX).
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This. My Hest 2.0 locks up like a vault, and from what I've seen, the TriAd lock is almost indestrutible
 
As others have said I would prefer something with the triad lock. However, if you go chopping and batoning ANY folder with the lock engaged, you will develop blade play no matter how strong the lock.
 
Hawk45 said:
I would go Tri-Ad lock, or a framelock that I could lock in place, then leave it there (Lion Steel/DPX).
Click to expand...

This. My Hest 2.0 locks up like a vault, and from what I've seen, the TriAd lock is almost indestrutible
 
Completely agree with 42.

CS Pocket Bushman. You would have to go out of your way to try and break it.
 
Quillan said:
Completely agree with 42.

CS Pocket Bushman. You would have to go out of your way to try and break it.
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And even if you bust the spring the lock still works--it just becomes manual. I seem to recall someone doing a destructive testing video with one and they weren't able to break the lock--the actual frame of the knife failed first, followed by the blade, and they called it a day there. It took some serious beating to accomplish that level of damage, as well.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
And even if you bust the spring the lock still works--it just becomes manual. I seem to recall someone doing a destructive testing video with one and they weren't able to break the lock--the actual frame of the knife failed first, followed by the blade, and they called it a day there. It took some serious beating to accomplish that level of damage, as well.
Click to expand...

Interesting..............
 
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