I'm Making My First Knife/WIP

Well I did some sanding. I did what you said to do Stacy, but I have a scratch that I just can't get rid of with sand paper of the files. It was hard to get a good picture of it so I am still trying to work it out. If I can't seem to do it I will post a picture and see what you think.
 
Hope you get well. There seems to be a lot of viruses ( vira to the geeks) around.

Most likely there is a deep scratch from the filing that you left behind.Sometimes you don't notice it clearly until you get the sanding to 200+ grit. It will not disappear until you get the metal sanded down to the bottom of the scratch. Don't give in to the temptation of sanding just the scratch...or you will make a ripple that will be worse looking than the scratch.

If there is a scratch that seems to bug you no matter what try this.
Wash the blade well and scrub the scratch area with clenser. Look at it with a magnifier to see what the scratch looks like, and how deep it is. Go back a few grits if it is a deep scratch. Only, this time, use a lubricant on the paper. A small bowl with a quart of water and a tablespoon of dish soap will be just right. Dip the block with the paper in the water and then sand on the blade. Wipe the blade with a damp rag and re-dip the block when the paper starts to get dry and sludge forms on the blade. This procedure, or a similar one is the norm above 400 grit, but it helps with stubborn scratches from 220 up.

Another problem can be grit contamination. Make sure that everything is cleaned up before going to a finer grit.
 
You guys think its ready for heat treat?

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The smudge on the first photo is from my finger not anything wrong with the sanding....
 
Hey Stacy, I will send the blade out tomorrow.

I was wondering since I am getting close to the handle part. How do you guys shape your handles? I've seen people use files, grinders and I guess sand papers.

How do you guys your your files and grinders and sand paper?
 
Thanks, I started feeling better yesterday. Its hard when your sick but not dying so you have to go to work and then try to get better the time between.
 
Hey guys, I am really sorry I haven't been around. I got caught up in work. I am going to try to get my stuff together and get back on the horse and finish my knife. Sorry again and I hope to make you guys proud.
 
I finally had some time to put back into knife making. Got the HT done from Stacy and I have sanded the handle area and put painters tape on it so I can continue with the blade. More to come.

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Man, nobody put a hamon on my first knife... but then it was damascus... or was it titanium. Whatever. Nice knife! :)
 
Hey! I just found this thread and see that Stacy mentioned me for a coating. Cerakote is really great stuff.

I'd like to "pay it forward". I'll coat your blade for you in Cerakote. No charge, cuz if Stacy wants to help you so do I. PM me if you want to utilize this. I'll get you mailing address and such. I see you have orange handles so black is good. I also have stainless steel! :cool:
 
I have sanded with 220 and 400 and this is where I am at. I am debating what to do now because the edge really isn't close to being sharp, it still has ~1mm thickness. Ideas?

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The edge is probably a bit thinner than 1mm (.04").
I would work it a bit more with 220 grit, and lean on the edge a bit as you stroke the sanding block downward. Once the edge is a small flat line, go to 400 grit.

If you are going to take Shotgunner up on the Cerakote offer ( very generous of him), you can stop at 220 grit. Shotgunner will give you the prep info needed.

If you are going to finish it by sanding, take it on up the grits to whatever point you decide to stop at. It can be 400 or 8000.....your decision on that.

Once the blade is either sanded or coated, you will put on the final edge.
This secondary bevel is what makes the knife sharp. It should be done on a wet stone at about 12-15 degrees per side. A two-sided or three sides stone is a good choice. Norton makes good stones. The two sided DMT diamond stones/plates are also good.
Form the edge on the coarser side, and once it is well shaped, go to the fine side. A few final strops on the back of an old leather belt will finish the job.

A tip on the final sharpening is to tape off the blade bevels, all except the last 1/4" at the edge. This will avoid accidental scratches on the blade by misplaced sharpening strokes. Duct Tape is good for this job. Gorilla tape is even better. Cut it to shape with scissors and place on the clean blade. Once the blade is sharpened, peel off the tape and clean up with acetone.
 
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