I'm Making My First Knife/WIP

I had that same scratch problem on my first few knives. Every time I would just about get rid of one, another would pop up. I tried chalk and it helped a lot, but what finally got rid of them was a combination of the chalk and clearing all the shavings from the work area every few strokes with a shop vac. It turned out that my file was getting a little magnetic and would pick up the shaving from the previous pass:o
 
Regularly inspect the file....especially if you feel it "bump" while filing. Use the file card and then a #11 X-ACTO blade to flick out any jammed in bits of steel. The chalk helps prevent the steel shavings from getting lodged in the bottom of the file teeth. Re-chalk as needed.
 
I worked on the bevel for about 3.5 hours today. I have about 80-90% of those really big scratches taken out. Takes alot of time to make sure that they are gone and you don't make any more.

I started out by taking the roughest sandpaper that I had and used a block to sand the blade so that steel looked "uniform" I was hard to tell the high spot etc. From there I used the #0 file and worked on the angle of the bevel and taking out the BIG scratches that I created last time. Repeated the sanding a every once in a while to make sure that I could see what I needed to do.

Blended in the distal taper to the rest of the blade as well. I forgot my camera so I didn't take any pictures. I will take some pictures before I start again and then when I can get the BIG scratches out.

How do you know when working with the files that the angle of your bevel is "right" and uniform? I am trying to do it by eye and feel. By using the sand paper and the flat block I can tell where the high spots are and have been going that direction.

I just found out that I have inherited a grinder from my father this past weekend. I will have to see if I can use it for making another knife after this one. Does it mater what type of grinder you use when shaping the blade, like in the steps that I am doing now? From what my father said its a high speed grinder so it wouldn't be good for sharpening.
 
I am going to post 2 random questions here because I am having problems finding the answers.

My father has a high speed bench grinder (1/2 hp 3400 rpms) that he said I could use. I know it wouldn't be good for sharpening the knives but could it be used for shaping before HT?


I am having problems on finding different methods on coating Carbon blades. I like the idea behind epoxy powder coating like what you see on the Ka-bars but I want to know how to do it at home and not needing expensive tools?

Update:

I did some more work on my knife today. Still getting those BIG scratches out. They are 95% gone. I started taking a sharpie to color the scratches so that I knew where they were. It makes it easier to see them and to know when you are getting them down to gone. You guys will see some pictures when I can get them out.
 
Last edited:
Check out how it is coming along.

Just a few scratches on each side left to take care of.

IMG_0135.jpg


IMG_0136.jpg


After I get the scratches from the file taken out I will finalize the plunge line and make sure the bevel is a continuous angle and I will start the sanding.
 
For carbon steel I would etch it to a dark color or patina it with vinegar, yellow mustard, etc. Or you could get some Birchwood Casey SuperBlue, it work as a pretty good cold bluing solution.
 
I did some more work and got rid of the scratches and then worked on the slope of the bevel.

Let me know what you guys think and how you think it is going. I am not sure I am really getting that far along with the work that I am doing and maybe I am not doing that well.

I think I am getting close to sanding to 800 grit and heat treating? For some reason I feel like I am way off and its not going well?

Anything that you guys think is welcome.

IMG_1286.jpg


IMG_1289.jpg


IMG_1290.jpg


IMG_1292.jpg
 
Excellent work, Brian. You have followed the center-scribed line well. The taper looks superb. I think you are going to be very happy with the final outcome.

One option for a coating is Cerakote. It is a baked on hard and tough finish. One of out members, Shotgunner, is a Cerakote service provider.

Can't wait to see the bevels at 400 grit finish.
 
I was going through the stickies again and I was reading some information about the handles and scales as well as looking through WIPs. When doing the scales, you work on the front ends first because when you attach them to the knife you can't really get to them easy. Does that mean that if you want to have a transition or it sloped from the front to the rest of the handle, that you should do that as well before attaching the scales?
 
Yes, get as much of the front of your scales done as you can before attaching them. I actually have some pins I use to test fit the scales to the tang to make sure things are going as I plan. I also rough out the basic shape of my scales before attaching them. My theory is that the less work I have to do once things are glued up, the less chance I have of damaging the work I put into the blade.

I do have to say the part that I worry about the most and find to be my weak point is the handle. I am getting quite confident in my ability to work a piece of steel into a usable knife, but still lack the confidence on the handles. It takes me twice as long to shape a handle as it does to shape a blade:o
 
unky_gumbi said:
Yes, get as much of the front of your scales done as you can before attaching them. I actually have some pins I use to test fit the scales to the tang to make sure things are going as I plan. I also rough out the basic shape of my scales before attaching them. My theory is that the less work I have to do once things are glued up, the less chance I have of damaging the work I put into the blade.
Click to expand...

But all that hard work getting the front part looking pretty is wasted if you don't remember to tape it up before attaching the scales. I'm talking about the epoxy that oozes out when you glue and clamp the scales onto the tang. Somehow you gotta keep it off of anything that is already finished, including the nice shiny ricasso. I tape that also.

It's looking good.

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
As you go up in grits, change direction so you can see if you have all the scratches out from the previous grit. Mr. Apelt's "how to make a knife" sticky has some info on it I think.
 
rannalf said:
As you go up in grits, change direction so you can see if you have all the scratches out from the previous grit. Mr. Apelt's "how to make a knife" sticky has some info on it I think.
Click to expand...

This is from Stacy's sticky:

"When the bevel looks good, and you are happy with the plunge lines, it is time to start sanding. Sanding is where the blade shape takes on the final look. It goes fast in the coarse stages, and slower in the fine ones. Use even firm pressure on the sanding block. Avoid using a piece of folded up sandpaper and your fingers. You can easily make dips and waves in the blade that will show up after the final grits like a fun house mirror. Grits below 400 should be done on a backing block and applied just like they were a file. Finer grits don't gouge the metal as much and can be worked without a block if needed, but the block is your friend if you want straight and flat bevels.
Once the filing is done, you can remove the tape from the tang area, but be careful that any sanding done at the ricasso still leaves the tang flat.The tang does not need to be sanded smooth, and bonds better with a rougher surface. Initially,a few strokes of the file to assure it is flat is all that is needed.The best way to avoid the ricasso dips is to flat sand the tang and ricasso area together with the paper laying down on a smooth and flat surface, and moving the knife over it in smooth strokes. Sand the tang/ricasso to 200 grit, then gently sand the ricasso area to 400. Now, you can proceed to the blade bevels without much risk of rounding the ricasso up under the handle. When the entire blade is sanded to 400-800 ( except the tang) and all surfaces are scratch free, the blade is ready for HT. Drill all holes in the tang before the HT. You will really hate yourself if you don't. Also, the holes should be larger than the rivets/bolts used, so for an 1/8" pin, drill a 3/16" hole;3/16" -drill 1/4";etc. Too large isn't a problem....too small is a big problem later on after the blade is hardened. "

If I read this it says that any sanding under 400 grit should be used with a block and in the same direction and way that you filed....

The reason I ask to make sure is because like in this case the included instructions that Stacy sent me were different and didn't say this information. It only said to sand to 400 grit and a couple of sentences about the ricasso.

HOWEVER.... rannalf, I did do what you said already and I did catch some scratches that I did not see before doing that.

I will just continue to do what I think is right and post pictures for you guys to show you what is up and just do it from now on......
 
Don't get me wrong, I am a noob, too :) I took his instructions to mean that you use the paper on a block like a file in unidirectional strokes, not only in the direction you filed in. I think this is mostly so you have more flat/even surfaces without dips, fishhooks, etc.
 
Yes, in sanding, the direction is not really important. I usually end up sanding the last grit in long smooth strokes from ricasso to tip. Changing direction at each grit change makes it easier to see the previous grits scratch marks....and assures that you don't leave one behind. I would start with the 120 grit and go from ricasso tip, which should be perpendicular to the file marks. When the file marks are gone, switch to 220 grit and go the opposite direction ( from spine to edge). Then 400 grit from ricasso to tip. Use a good strong light ( and an optivisor if you are an old man like me) to examine each step closely to assure you are ready to move to the next grit. If you discover a scratch that you left behind, go back one grit and sand it out before moving to a finer grit.
Once the blade is hardened, and the sanding gets above 400 grit, scratches can be very hard to get out, so make the 400 grit step pre-HT as good as you can ( but don't be anal about it, either).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top