the possum said:
On a big knife that will see hard use, especially one made of carbon steel, I believe a decent finish is required or gunk and sap will really stick to it and cause rust pretty quickly.
I think it was the Basic #7 my brother took the coating off a few years back and it had a really coarse undergrind, shaping grit I would assume. He did some work (chopping mainly) and complained it was "sticky", I gave him a sanding block and in less than five minutes he resurfaced the blade.
He didn't achieve a mirror finish, it wasn't even a decent satin, all he wanted to do was get it to the point where the finish would be similar to the scratches from use so he just broke the coarse grit. How much would you actually give him to do that to a blade, probably not a lot.
With my large blades, I just let them get burnished smooth in use and sharpening. When I reprofiled my large custom 5160 parang I left the entire primary grind with the as belt finish, which was 80 or 100 grit. If you look at it now it is very smooth, just from chopping and the sharpening.
You can't tell it apart surface wise from my SHBM which had a very nice finish NIB, aside from the handful of scrapes from being banged around in the shop which I was made aware of when I bought it, and could not care less about.
But this is a pretty radical example, no one actually sells blades with this level of finish anyway, so it is in context of what is seen, and specifically here what is seen comparing a Sebenza to a 710 or Paramilitary or Rat Trap. Is that level of increased finish productive?
I would argue that even the level of finish on the other three is a waste of time on a working knife let alone on the Sebenza.
RedEdge77 said:
do framelocks close on your hand if you squeeze to tight?
They can both cause the lock to engage more or less depending on the grip and nature of the lock, left handed vs right handed on the same lock for example.
Planterz said:
You also cut up aluminum and steel cans.
That isn't as hard on the blade finish as cutting cardboard and used rope. The cans can be harder on the edge, but the metal is softer than the abrasives in the cardboard and used rope and the cardboard and rope grate along the entire primary grind whereas the metals usually just make contact with the edge.
Everybody here knows your "testing methods" go way beyond reasonable reccomended use.
Nothing I have done with the Sebenza so far would be a problem for a SAK. That is a pretty lame standard for a $350 hard use working folder promoted as being made from optimal materials with optimal performance.
Put blue 3M painter's tape over the blade next time and you won't scratch it.
The tape would make contact with the stone and gum it up immediately. When you apply high relief grinds you really can't expect to not effect the finish of the blade, but this is secondary to the damage from use anyway which is why I don't tape the blade, and of course it doesn't effect performance anyway and as noted this is about working knives not safe queens.
By the time knife needs to be sharpened the primary is full of scratches anyway, and no it doesn't take extreme use to do so. I sharpen blades for friends all the time, none of them are "high speed operators" just normal guys, and their blades are always heavily scratched. While what I did with the Sebenza may seem extreme to you, it is nothing unusual for a tradesmen who will do it with a $5 Olfa knife all day long.
The only concern I have sharpening the Sebenza is not grinding off the stud which is one of the reasons I prefer opening holes. If you are going to put them on at least make them easy to remove like ER does.
Bastid said:
I think you might have the term finish confused with embellishment.
No, we simply see if differently. If I bought a table and one of the legs was a different height so it as off level I would not see this as a finish issue but a major construction flaw. I have never yet had a maker say "Oh, you don't care about finish? I have a blade here with a severe warp then and the scales are cracked."
Now if you want to define finish as including severe construction defects then that is different, but that was not how it was used in context of this thread which is what you were contending, plus I would really like to see you try to argue that perspective of the term to the tradesmen I know.
Now you could argue that the term finish means something different in the knife industry, as does the term custom for example, which has a pretty convoluted defination. However as noted, it isn't universal because I never had a maker take the approach you describe.
They always understand and I never defined it in detail, I usually just say something like "No, it is a user, don't do any finish work." when they ask how I want the blade finished and not once have they ever argued it or sent me blades with major flaws and said "Well you said finish doesn't matter."
And yes, as I stated earlier I would not pay to increase the finish on a working knife, for the same reason I would not pay to have a mirror polish applied to a sledge hammer.If someone wants to do it fine, I would not pay to have it done.
Simply because it takes more time does not mean it automatically is worth more, again from the point of view of a working tool. And again as noted, if you take that logic it leads you to odd places just like your defination of prejudice makes every decision/statement ever made a prejudiced one.
-Cliff