It followed me home (Part 2)

[300Six]

What is that head? I recently picked up an awesome axe with the same exact pattern in a TT Kelly Works Flint Edge. It is stamped 4lbs and the original looking handle is a straight 24-25". Hardened poll too, I was thinking that I had an authentic miner's axe. I kept that one because it was in great shape and I'd never seen one before.

Hopefully Square_Peg will pipe up on this but I suspect you've got a bona fide miner's axe there. The typical rafting pattern head is there but the short straight handle (to me) is the dead giveaway for ID on this one.

 

[SC T100]

Or was it called a Construction Axe? I thought I saw a post recently that had a few heads with short, straight handles listed as such.

 

[rjdankert]

What is that head? I recently picked up an awesome axe with the same exact pattern in a TT Kelly Works Flint Edge. It is stamped 4lbs and the original looking handle is a straight 24-25". Hardened poll too, I was thinking that I had an authentic miner's axe. I kept that one because it was in great shape and I'd never seen one before.

Hopefully Square_Peg will pipe up on this but I suspect you've got a bona fide miner's axe there. The typical rafting pattern head is there but the short straight handle (to me) is the dead giveaway for ID on this one.

Obviously I am not Square_Peg . But this is from a 1967 TT catalog page posted by gben which may be relevant:

Bob

 

[300Six]

Obviously I am not Square_Peg . But this is from a 1967 TT catalog page posted by gben which may be relevant:

Bob

Curious! True Temper actually marketed two different hardened poll type heads (Miner is a Dayton type and Constructor is a Rafting pattern) on straight handles. OK; prize for conclusive identification goes to Bob.

 

[Agent_H]

I hit a recycled building materials place today on my way to the inlaws'.

Several Peavey tools and some pretty well-used to abused axes and sledges. I asked the guys there if they had anything that was in better shape.


Came home with a Winchester hatchet or boy's axe head (given the eye size, not the handle length) and a Plumb half-hatchet:

When Permabond isn't your friend:

 

[Hickory n steel]

I hit a recycled building materials place today on my way to the inlaws'.

Several Peavey tools and some pretty well-used to abused axes and sledges. I asked the guys there if they had anything that was in better shape.


Came home with a Winchester hatchet or boy's axe head (given the eye size, not the handle length) and a Plumb half-hatchet:





When Permabond isn't your friend:

I like that plumb riggers axe, but the permabond is the worst and will probably give you hell.
It doesn't look like there will be much putting under the rust, so that's good.
You should try it on a 20" fawns foot handle cut down from a boys axe handle.

 

[300Six]

When Permabond isn't your friend:

Square_Peg for one isn't enamoured with removing the stuff so now we get to hear all about your trials and tribulations with it. You'd think there was some kind of solvent that softens it or causes it to release. Maybe first off you want to try soaking in boiling water.
Take heart. What you do know for sure is that particular hammer wasn't assembled before 1956.

 

[Agent_H]

I’ve removed 2 other Permabond heads and this one was done before I realized it.

1. I used a masonry bit to drill out down the center to clear it. Flipped it over several times gave me a little more purchase. Needle nose pliers pulled out some of the larger chunks. Smaller punch to knock out what would come loose.

2. I have a no name chisel that I used to go around the inside edge of the eye to peel the Permabond back slightly. I did this several times on both sides, flipped it over, then alternately knocked it with the punch.


3. Used my knife to carefully peel it away from the inside of the eye.

It took a half hour. I have taken much, much longer than that with metal and wood wedges.

The “waffling” on the hammer face looks intact. I am almost done with another project…

 

[Hickory n steel]

I’ve removed 2 other Permabond heads and this one was done before I realized it.

1. I used a masonry bit to drill out down the center to clear it. Flipped it over several times gave me a little more purchase. Needle nose pliers pulled out some of the larger chunks. Smaller punch to knock out what would come loose.

2. I have a no name chisel that I used to go around the inside edge of the eye to peel the Permabond back slightly. I did this several times on both sides, flipped it over, then alternately knocked it with the punch.


3. Used my knife to carefully peel it away from the inside of the eye.

It took a half hour. I have taken much, much longer than that with metal and wood wedges.

The “waffling” on the hammer face looks intact. I am almost done with another project…

Hmm, whenever I remove an old handle I just cut it off and knock it out the top in a few good hits.
I guess I've never encountered a real stubborn one.
I'm surprised that you were able to remove the permabond quicker than I did a broken fiberglass handle from an old Japan made cheapo.

 

[Agent_H]

I'm surprised that you were able to remove the permabond quicker than I did a broken fiberglass handle from an old Japan made cheapo.

As well am I. I'm not complaining.

 

[Yar]

I bought an old hatchet today that's pretty rusted. When do you decide to use a wire wheel versus soaking it in vinegar?

 

[Agent_H]

I bought an old hatchet today that's pretty rusted. When do you decide to use a wire wheel versus soaking it in vinegar?

I don't do vinegar at all - not that it doesn't strip everything off but rather that it does.

The wire wheel approach seems to leave more "character" on the tools.

Either way will remove rust and "junk".

 

[Hickory n steel]

I bought an old hatchet today that's pretty rusted. When do you decide to use a wire wheel versus soaking it in vinegar?

Go with the wire wheel first and see if you can get all of the rust off ( depending on the tool, you may need a smaller one in a dremel for tight spaces )
Once you've seen a few you'll realize how much better the natural patina looks vs the dull gray from the vinegar soak.
I'd only use vinegar if you can't get it all off ( if you want you can tape off the top and fill the eye to clean it out )

 

[rockman0]

Here's a few recently added heads. Hafted the craftsman swing logo today.

The keen cutter is 1.75 lbs. It came to me on a 14" handle. I put the craftsman on this handle and will hang the keen cutter on a 17" NOS handle that's laying on the bench

 

[Agent_H]

Those are all winners there Rockman. Good scores.

The Flint Edge 2 1/4 is a fine looking one.

 

[rockman0]

Those are all winners there Rockman. Good scores.

The Flint Edge 2 1/4 is a fine looking one.

Yes sir, I like it, FSS stamp, poll is in great shape.

 

[jblyttle]

I purchased this 155lb Trenton anvil on Saturday for $350, and traded it it to a picker friend today for all of this stuff. We were both pleased with the deal. He wanted a good anvil and wanted to get rid of a bunch of stuff. I have surplus anvils and knew it would be good barter.

 

[Yar]

A small no-name hatchet

I knocked off the rust and ground down the worst of the mushrooming on the poll and touched up the edge.

 

[SC T100]

JB, nice trade...those Connies are beautiful axes. Wow.

 

[marbat]

My first mini hatchet finally from a work site I was at today. 1 1/4 lb and made in W Germany, Aside from some minor rust and dried up rotten haft, this little fella is in very good condition.