It followed me home (Part 2)

garry3 said:
Ya, you did! Keep us posted on what treasures turn out of that haul.
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That is a Plumb, I can't decide if that's a rockaway or jersey...did Plumb round off the lugs on their jersey heads?
CedarEater said:
Well that would keep me busy for a long time right there.
I really like the looks of that rockaway lower center of the third picture.
Have fun with those.
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I see in the old Hibbard, Spencer and Bartlett catalog these broad axes are called "Pennsylvania" pattern, so it is no surprise as a resident of that state I have seen quite a few of them. Someday I will have to clean them up and see if there are any marks on them. The hatchet is a Plumb Anchor and the other edged tool is a "fro" or "froe" for splitting wood into shingles etc..

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An axe I bought a few days ago for $3.33, a four-pound Sager chemical axe that is well-worn and neglected with a dry-rotted handle. "Sager chemical axe" is legible on it but I see no date, flip side has a "4" and some other odd mark stamped in it. I live close to Warren, PA where these were made so no surprise I found this at a local junk-shop....:


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rbeggs said:
That is a Plumb, I can't decide if that's a rockaway or jersey...did Plumb round off the lugs on their jersey heads?
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This question came up previously. The typical Rockaway is curved between the eye and the heel, and there is generally more curvature in the bit than with the typical Jersey.

cooperhill said:
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Square_peg said:
A Rockaway is a variant of a Jersey (Rockaway is in Jersey). A typical Rockaway has rounded lobes or ears or whatever you want to call them and often the bottom side of the axe is curved from the eye to the heel. Im's axe has that classic curve between the eye and the heel. Different makers fixed the Rockaway name to different variations.
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Not an axe but I bet I could chop with it...

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Wolf, Sayer & Heller #8 cleaver. AWESOME splitter (of hogs, not logs ;)
 
Wolf, Sayer & Heller was big from the 1890s through about 1920, so sometime in between. It's about 2lbs, 10" blade.
 
If you're talking bout the axe head - yes it is slightly concave. The bevels are flat, but that doesn't bother. This axe is so thick i'll have to reprofile it anyway. Im just still wondering what type of grinds to choose for chopping pine/spruce and sometimes oak/beech.
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Pindvin said:
The bevels are flat, but that doesn't bother. This axe is so thick i'll have to reprofile it anyway. Im just still wondering what type of grinds to choose for chopping pine/spruce and sometimes oak/beech.
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I'd give it a half banana grind or full banana (3/4 banana?).

http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/axegrinds.html


See photo below. The angle is the same across the bit. The thickness of the cheeks causes the grind to reach back further in the center.

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Thank you. Btw. there's this issue ... is the banana grind flat or convexed? I've put one on of the axes and it seems to have gotten a little bit too thin. I made the banana grind flat.
 
I hate to sidetrack but the edge/cheek profile interests me. I do mine in maybe an odd way?? My grind is flat from the point nearest the poll to about 3/8" the end at the center of the bit- closer to 1/4" at heel and toe, then sort of "facet" grind lines leading down almost on the edge, then blend with a stone and paper to convex.

I do not know if that qualifies as a banana or half bana depending on depth and I do not work a trail crew for use as hard as some here but is a pretty simple repeatable hand filed edge. I do not have the jigs that some here have made.

Bill
 
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