Jack the Stripper?

Should I strip and polish this BJ user?

  • Yes, strip

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • No, black with pumpkin looks great

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
ebsyesque said:
The knife looks great! I just got a desert tan esee 4 that i want to strip but it's got not even a scratch. If there are any pics of stripped knives i would love to see.
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Mine was brand new, never used when I stripped it. Im just not a fan of coated knives.
 
I used my basic 11 to chop down a bunch of seasoned apricot limbs this week, and then used it to baton a couple of rounds until I realized how much faster it would go using my large true temper axe. In the process of batoning I really beat the crap out of it, trying to get it to go through knotted wood that is as hard as seasoned white oak. It pushed wood chips so far into the coating that I couldn't get it out with sand paper or other chunks of wood scrapping at them. If I have to take a screwdriver to a knife to get wood chunks out, I'm just going to strip it and not have to deal with it at all. Wood chips being stuck in your coating is an issue because it makes kydex sheath fit a problem and it can (theoretically, but probably not enough to be an issue) introduce moisture to a single point in the blade and keep it there for long periods of time.

I prefer to buy coated knives and strip them rather then satined knives because of the added protection to the tang under the handle scales.
 
LVC - When I pulled the handle scales from my Skinny Ash there was no coating.

Not sure if this is the norm?
 
To clarify, here is what I found

SASH1.jpg


So, yeah, there is a lot of extra protection. I looked back at my old pic. I started to have second thoughts on what I remembered. I know you are like a walking Busse Encyclopedia LVC :D

I was off a little, but I knew I remembered something uncoated under the handles.
 
If I could have the perfect user, say and FBMLE (just as an easy example), I would want everything coated aside from the flat grinds and the cutting edge. If that makes sense. Like my SHSH that is coated everywhere but the spine and around the handle...I would want opposite of that.

The ricasso coated, the spine and all around the handles. Just satin on the flat grinds and cutting edge.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
I used my basic 11 to chop down a bunch of seasoned apricot limbs this week, and then used it to baton a couple of rounds until I realized how much faster it would go using my large true temper axe. In the process of batoning I really beat the crap out of it, trying to get it to go through knotted wood that is as hard as seasoned white oak. It pushed wood chips so far into the coating that I couldn't get it out with sand paper or other chunks of wood scrapping at them. If I have to take a screwdriver to a knife to get wood chunks out, I'm just going to strip it and not have to deal with it at all. Wood chips being stuck in your coating is an issue because it makes kydex sheath fit a problem and it can (theoretically, but probably not enough to be an issue) introduce moisture to a single point in the blade and keep it there for long periods of time.

I prefer to buy coated knives and strip them rather then satined knives because of the added protection to the tang under the handle scales.
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Hmm. Interesting. So you think leaving the coating under the slabs is a better option? We're about to yank the slabs of my BJ in order to polish that too.
 
The shop scratches in a mark and then covers it with a piece of tape so they can powder coat it but still have an identifier for what scales go with it.
yyyIMG_5622.jpg


In theory, I would like to be be able to remove my handle scales and put them back on whenever I want for two reasons; it lets me sand off corrosion, and it allows me to replace the fasteners when they get damaged (skewing the scales). If I can't have that, then I want to know theres something under there preventing rust from building up.

I think the idea of having non-removable scales with uncoated INFI (besides having less moving parts and being easier to manufacture) is that INFI is very rust resistant. You could soak it in ocean water for a month, take it out and start using it again and it would take decades for the handle to lose strength because of rust build up. Even if thats the case, I don't like the idea of it, it's just something I want to avoid even if it's 'not a big issue'. By leaving the coating on the tang (even though it's not completely covered as shown by the un-coated identifier square in the pictures) rust is much less likely to occur.

If your going to reattach the scales with a set of screws and standoffs, or any fastener that lets you take the scales off then it's much less of a worry. You can take the scales off at any time and sand the handle down and then put the scales back on.


My newly stripped basic 11:
P1080466.jpg

P1080467.jpg
 
Last edited:
tobotech said:
was the basic 11 pitted under the coating?
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No, the classic INFI pitting is found on flat surfaces that never get hit by a belt sander/grinder, places like the ricasso or tang. If I removed the coating from the ricasso area on the basic 11 shown above there would likely be pitting there.

At least, thats how it's been in the past. I haven't seen that many newer-production pieces that have been stripped. I'm just assuming that it's a property of INFI and Busse Combat is still leaving the full stock thickness area's unground.
 
I like it :)

The coating keeps it from rusting on all the places that aren't getting used, and I can sand off the rust/wood chips from the places that are. :thumbup:
 
Does anyone know a good site that has a better than average selection of liner and spacer material? I might use something under the Pumpkin, but I think my options are limited as far as looks go. What goes with black/orange?
 
Last Visible Canary said:
blue?
http://www.slashfilm.com/orangeblue-contrast-in-movie-posters/

I'm a big fan of usaknifemaker.com, ran and owned by Tracey Mickley (who makes some drop dead gorgeous knives). If you look around you'll find that most of the main sites have prices that are at or higher to his, even after shipping. He also has a good selection of colors in 1/8" thick stock
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/handle-material-hardware-micartatm-g10-carbon-fiber-c-95_36.html
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Haha! I never noticed that orange/blue contrast before. I'm a new fan of that site too. Isheldon recommended it to me in another BJ thread of mine. I saw their liners, but I didn't know if you could typically find better selection or if their offering was the norm. Cheaper is better though. Thanks! :thumbup:
 
Upon second look, the link you posted is to their handle material/hardware section and not the Liner section I looked at. Could the 1/8" stock in the handle material section work as a liner?
 
I just realized that I was bit confused when I posted that. I didn't even realize there was a difference between 'liners' and 'thin stock'. At 1/8" thick the handle stock would end up making the total handle thickness 1/4" thicker, so that might not be the route you want (unless you want your handles thicker). Since the normal scales on the boss jacks are 1/4" thick, you'd be making them 3/8" thick on each side. I haven't seen a lot of 1/16" or thinner g10 floating around the internets. Honestly I had never actually looked into the spacer material they have listed at usaknifemaker, though reading it now:

"Tip: Make sure and really scratch and scuff the surface of this material before applying adhesive. I use a fresh 36 grit abrasive and then wipe off any dust. The surface of this material is very slick and adhesives need a good tooth for a strong purchase. It is slightly hygroscopic so when you have it mounted in your handle, seal exposed edges with a thin coat of Cyanoacrylate (Superglue type adhesive). A light coat of thin CA will soak in and seal the edges. It's not required but something you can do if the knife is going to be exposed to a lot of moisture or humidity cycling. "

Kind of leaves me going o_0
 
You need an adhesive on the liner? I better do some more research. I just assumed the fasteners held the whole thing together.
 
adrock1978 said:
You need an adhesive on the liner? I better do some more research. I just assumed the fasteners held the whole thing together.
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I think you need an adhesive for the vulcanized liner that Tracey is selling. Since it's a sheet of (I think, based on the description) flexible material that is hygroscopic, you'd want something to keep it from shifting in place as it takes on or loses overall moisture content. I don't think you need any kind of adhesive for g10 or micarta stock, you just need to have a good fit between the hole you drill and the fastener so they don't shift around. As long as they are tight, they shouldn't go anywhere.
 
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