Junk Steel

[Strong-Dog]

He has already stated that his English isn't great.

Jus Boy, if that is what you meant I apologize. I thought you may be referring to them making the steel with a better process

 

[W.M.B.]

Ok, its a bit more than an hour later. Sorry to keep you waiting. [img=http://s6.postimg.org/u63vvlrd9/IMG_20140504_211133.jpg]
Nope, no rust. I was kinda hoping for some patina action. No cigar.

 

[Jue Boy]

Jus Boy, if that is what you meant I apologize. I thought you may be referring to them making the steel with a better process

So they sharpen better as well?

 

[sirupatespecial]

So they sharpen better as well?

S30-v is a pretty hard steel. If you are used to using "lower end" steels. So, if it is dull it will be hard to sharpen. Regardless of who makes it. Best thing to do with higher end steel is to touch them up occasionally. Whether you think they need it or not.

As some here have said, if you think s30-v is crap steel, you probably don't know how to sharpen. Or don't have the proper tools. Same with d-2. But, again, if your knife comes "dull" from the factory it is gonna take a little, maybe a lot of work to get it sharp. That goes for, as far as I'm concerned, any of the new "super steels".

Personally I like aus-8 and 8cr13mov. Cause they are easy to sharpen to a razors edge. Do they hold an edge as long as "high end" steels. Nope.

 

[Jue Boy]

S30-v is a pretty hard steel. If you are used to using "lower end" steels. So, if it is dull it will be hard to sharpen. Regardless of who makes it. Best thing to do with higher end steel is to touch them up occasionally. Whether you think they need it or not.

As some here have said, if you think s30-v is crap steel, you probably don't know how to sharpen. Or don't have the proper tools. Same with d-2. But, again, if your knife comes "dull" from the factory it is gonna take a little, maybe a lot of work to get it sharp. That goes for, as far as I'm concerned, any of the new "super steels".

Personally I like aus-8 and 8cr13mov. Cause they are easy to sharpen to a razors edge. Do they hold an edge as long as "high end" steels. Nope.

Ah, I see. But is spydercos S30V sharper than kershaws?

 

[ibute21]

Strong Dog, do you do competition cutting or something? Honestly, I can't really tell too much difference with a lot of the high end steels other than that some take a lot longer to sharpen than others. At work, I have a knife in my hand for about 4 hours a day. Since I do so much cutting (I install commercial vinyl and linoleum), I mainly use a fixed Stanley knife with disposable utility and hook blades. Those don't hold an edge worth a darn, but even if I was using the best knife steel available, I guarantee I would spend more time sharpening than it would take to just slip a new blade in. I have to laugh.... I have several $1,000 invested in knives and I use a $10 disposable more than anything else. My work edc is usually a $20 Dozier (for when I don't have my tool pouch on). After work, I rotate a few of my higher end knives bust most of them are for fondling and admiring, and in that case, steel type doesn't matter one bit.

I use a knife a lot at work as well. I carry an Emerson at all times and use it to cut stuff when I'm in a pinch. When I have my bags on me, I use my roofing knife. Stupid sharp carbon steel blades. Shingles are hell on blades, especially the fiberglass and ceramic ones, no way in hell would I use a decent folder on them. Use the right tool for the job. I too was steel junky but I came around and saw the light about a year ago. I'm content with 154CM (I actually prefer it to be honest).

 

[Thomas Linton]

The steels I like are great.
The steels you like are junk.

I like the steels that you like, ergo . . . .

 

[bladeboss]

Ok, its a bit more than an hour later. Sorry to keep you waiting. [img=http://s6.postimg.org/u63vvlrd9/IMG_20140504_211133.jpg]
Nope, no rust. I was kinda hoping for some patina action. No cigar.

Huh. I guess I got a lemon.
All of my 8Cr blades got that spotty rust all over them. Especially in fingerprinted spots.
I stand by my "wind destroys the edge" statement.
I let my uncle use my Tenacious, and it got so dull, that he had to get another knife to finish cutting up a grill box.
I was watching him too. He wasn't abusing it.

 

[eb1118]

I like the 8cr13mov on my Tenacious, Skyline, and Persistence because I can quite easily get a hair-whittling edge on them. I like 154cm on my Benchmades because it has held up for me and it strops easily. My 710 D2 is very difficult to sharpen, so it might be my least favorite of my steels, besides for true junk steels.

 

[keroscene]

Are you including teflon washers? I used to think they were synonymous with cheap, but I have a few knives with them... Al Mar Shrike comes to mind.... One of the smoothest opening knives I own.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/995132-Pros-amp-Cons-of-teflon-washers-GO!

Mainly just the cheapo plastic ones. Teflon is ok I guess, but I try to avoid anything that isn't metal, mainly because plastic seems to gunk up easier and develop blade play over time. Although, I have not used any al mar knives so I cannot speak to their quality and longevity.

That being said, Teflon seems to be amazing per your link. Maybe it's a mental thing as they look like plastic and my experience w/ plastic has been horrid. I'm aware that good companies use Teflon so I really shouldn't freak out about em, lol

 

[Ten4leader]

5cr13mov

 

[Noctis3880]

I like my high-end steels mostly because I don't have much trouble sharpening even S125V.

But really, the two main considerations for me are:
1) Corrosion resistance, S30V or better. VG-10 developed enough rust to pit the blade very deeply.
2) Hardness. Anything softer than Rc 59 scratches and rolls very easily for me.

 

[SENGVIN]

For ss I start with 440c and up ! I have one in (Aus 8) but it can't stay sharp long (although it gets sharp ). So 440c is lowest grade of ss for me, it holds edge forever, plenty tough and is stainless !( It has to be for reputable source and great HT around 58rc)
Other ss I have and like :
cpm s35vn
s30v
vg1
cpm 154cm

Cs I like:
1095
5160
D2
cpm d2
INFI
CPM 3V
O1
1090

 

[dogstar]

Some can get by with an SAK because they just don't use their knives all that much while others need a much more wear resistant steel because their knives seen a lot more use.

So, before super steels, no one used their knife frequently? Why can't you just sharpen it when it gets dull?

 

[Ankerson]

So, before super steels, no one used their knife frequently? Why can't you just sharpen it when it gets dull?

Sure, I used to do it all the time..... Back in the 70's and 80's......

And sharpened them a lot, had to ..... Went through a lot of knives over the years...

We have it a lot better these days....

 

[Styg]

I like 154cm.

I like the SAK steel on my SAK. I would not want that same steel on my Rift. I also wouldn't want super steel on my SAK.

I don't consider my SAK to be disposable or cheap but, inexpensive, easy to maintain even without equipment, and replaceable if necessary. For how I use my SAK it's steel is ideal.

 

[Redmasta]

All steel is junk steel, I only use knives with blades made of Adamantium.

 

[Spydiemaniac]

S30v and elmax are some of the last things I would consider "junk steel"

 

[SaintlyBrees]

I'm always interested to see the alloys some folks consider to be substandard for creating cutting edges. 420HC is often attacked as are 440C, D2, and most recently, S30V and Elmax. So here's a simple question. Are there any knives you would refuse to purchase based on their blade alloy alone? If so, which alloys are on your hit list and why?

I think it is about value and not so much about particular alloys. For example, in another thread we were discussing Southern Grind knives that are priced in the $250 range and use 14c28n steel. I have nothing against the steel, in fact I own a few knives that use it but when you consider the value of the steel being used compared to the price, one has to consider that. That knife would be much more acceptable at either a lower price or the same price with a better steel.

So, IMHO, it has more to do with value than alloy.

It all depends on price. I'm not laying out $150 for a knife with 420J2 without knowing a LOT about the maker and their reasons. If you showed me a Griptillian in 1055 with a good heat treatment, I'd be all over it.

Exactly.

Since you asked, I don't think I would ever buy a knife that uses 420HC. I only have one experience with it.... my Leatherman Juice, which is actually part of my edc. I will buy another Juice when this one dies, but the blade on it is terrible IMHO. It has ruined 420HC for me. Why waste my time on that steel when i can get another Dozier folding hunter with Aus8 for $20? I always carry at least a small folder in addition to the Juice for cutting anyway. Also, I avoid any Chinese knife marked with '440'.

Yet Buck makes most of their knives with 420HC. And those with Paul Bos heat treat have very nice blades. I own many and have had no issues with any of them. In fact, the Buck 420HC is a very fine performing steel, IMHO.

So, again, it is more about value and maker than just the alloy.

JMO.

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I guess my favorite steel is S30V. IMO, it hits the sweet spot between performance & cost. I can maintain the edge easily enough yet it holds that edge longer than lesser steels. But when you look at the new Manix 2 with S110V (as mentioned by BenLong1018 above) the great steel, light weight, and the price makes that particular knife a super value.

 

[RamZar]

Somebody's junk steel is another person's treasure. Yesterday's super steel is tomorrow's junk steel. Back in 2005, I recall S30V as THE super steel and 154CM no slouch. There's nothing wrong in pursuing premium blade steels as long as there's a purpose in mind albeit subjective or objective.