Just Need Maybe Design Tips

redsquid2

redsquid2

Rockabilly Interim Pardon Viscount
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
3,125
I found a leaf spring. I don't know what make model or year it came from. I figure they are all pretty much the same. I can borrow my brother's angle grinder to cut out the basic shape, and his drill press. I also have a file for making the bevels. This knife is going to be plenty thick and beefy Just going to use the original thickness of the leaf spring.

I need the kind of knife that will do everything from chopping down trees to fine whittling and dressing out chipmunks. I can make snares for small animals, and with this knife I will also clean them and smoke the meat in a small smoke house, which I will build using only this knife and locally harvested materials.

Here is what it will look like. I might change it slightly, because of advice I get from experts:

25426551713_6659609302_b.jpg


Here is the file. Craftsman:

25424310604_c358947485_c.jpg


I would rather have posted this a week from today, but I will be away, and will not be able to do it at that time.
 
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It is a pretty good design, right? It will do everything I need in order to survive. Food and shelter and everything. I just need instructions on how to make saw teeth on the back of it, so it doubles as a saw. It is hard to picture exactly how I am going to make saw teeth on it. I might need a special tool.
 
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You can cut the saw teeth by taking a diamond ring and setting it on the spine. Hit it hard with a hammer and it will cut a perfect saw tooth. Repeat as needed. If you borrow your wife's ring for this, make sure to clean it up after you are done.

A really cool trick for those without a grinder is to tack weld the blade on the end of a 4 foot piece of 1.5" angle iron. Get a buddy and go out on I-90. Once up to about 70 MPH, have him stick the bar out the window and let the blade rub along the concrete. It will grind the bevel totally flat in less than 5 miles. Go back home and switch the blade to the other side and hit the road again. Repeat on smoother roadways for a finish grind. This may take a week, but the blade will be ready right on time.
 
If you figure out how to do the sawback, make sure that you run it back into the handle. This will add extra grippiness when your hands are covered in blood after skinning squirrels.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You can cut the saw teeth by taking a diamond ring and setting it on the spine. Hit it hard with a hammer and it will cut a perfect saw tooth. Repeat as needed. If you borrow your wife's ring for this, make sure to clean it up after you are done.

A really cool trick for those without a grinder is to tack weld the blade on the end of a 4 foot piece of 1.5" angle iron. Get a buddy and go out on I-90. Once up to about 70 MPH, have him stick the bar out the window and let the blade rub along the concrete. It will grind the bevel totally flat in less than 5 miles. Go back home and switch the blade to the other side and hit the road again. Repeat on smoother roadways for a finish grind. This may take a week, but the blade will be ready right on time.
Click to expand...

I love how you always come through with practical advice.
 
I do have one doubt about my design. It might not be so good for making sushi.

S. Alexander, I don't know, but it is almost like you are being silly.
 
...and for those of you who are not well-versed in survival, the skull-piercing spike also doubles as an awl, for sewing together clothing out of squirrel hides.
 
If you want it to do sushi duty, consider a knife with the handle between two blades. One end would be heavy and robust for survival, and the other would be thin and super sharp. This end could also serve as a scalpel if emergency surgery is needed in the woods.
 
There's a distinct lack of jimping in your design. We need more jimping!
 
I'd put in some finger holes so you don't drop it while in use. You might even consider brazing some brass knuckles onto the handle. It will be DOUBLY effective then for self defense.

And don't forget the blood groove.
 
Squid,

I think what Stacy and others are so eloquently trying to convey is that you should not, indeed can not, make a knife that will do all of what you ask for.

A 6" cutting edge on 1/4" stock? And, digging, prying, self defense and self rescue, but yet fine and pointy enough to clean small rodents. And effective saw teeth along the 4" of available spine(imagining chewed up fingers right now), and a pointy wrist-bludgeoner thingy on the butt end. Wow, that's a whole lot 'a whoop arse your designing there.

Slow down. Simplify.

That's a fine design profile you have there, but maybe not out of 1/4" stock though. Try 3/16" and you'll be happy.
Get rid of the pointy wrist-bludgeoner thingy, shorten the handle by about 3/4"-1", and give the spine a more arched profile to lower the butt 1/2" or so. Forget this saw teeth malarchy and pack a small folding saw next time. They work.

Take another go at this one with a few less bells and whistles attached. Its a good basic design, leave it that way.

-Peter
 
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