Just Need Maybe Design Tips

Don't forget to incorporate a rape whistle
 
AVigil said:
Don't forget to incorporate a rape whistle
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Rape whistle awesome thought. I would also mirror polish one side of the blade as a rescue signal mirror but duracoat the other side OD Green to keep a low profile in case you need to escape and evade.
 
When you complete the design, can you please make it available to all of us at 1:1 scale in PDF format?

I think you are onto something here, and I'd like to be keep up of the next trend in knife making by making a few before the big factories get wind of this.

Thanks.
 
If you incorporate a lanyard hole make it 1/4" hexagon so you can use regular screwdriver bits, make space in the handle for at least six bits...


Pablo
 
The East marking of that compass needs to be V-notched so you can launch the knife at those chipmunks with an atlatl. Chipmunks have a blind spot directly to their east.
 
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Blade serrations might help,use them to cut through ropes while you're rapelling down an enemy building.
 
Regarding the self-batoning feature, I may need to hire an engineer. I am having trouble working out the details.

For the complex machining, I have a machinist friend who will no doubt volunteer his services. I mean, he does that kind of work all day long, plus lots of overtime, so he obviously really enjoys it, so he will be happy to do it for free, for a friend.

:-)
 
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i see this design is coming along very well, this knife will be able to do just about anything but there is a couple major flaws. I watched a fair amount of anime this past weekend and I learned a thing or two about ninja battles. You need a notch cut out in the blade just past the hilt so you can catch and grab other knives in a knife fight. You never know, some of those squirrels could be a ninja in disguise and might have a bigger knife than you, at least you could take it away.
 
redsquid2 said:
Regarding the self-batoning feature, I may need to hire an engineer. I am having trouble working out the details.

For the complex machining, I have a machinist friend who will no doubt volunteer his services. I mean, he does that kind of work all day long, plus lots of overtime, so he obviously really enjoys it, so he will be happy to work without pay, for a friend.

:-)
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It is really simple physics:
You place a spring loaded hammer on the spine with the end pivoted at the guard. The length from the center of the head to the end of the hammer handle is the distance from the pivot to the center of force spot on the spine. Pull the hammer back and latch with the pall on the butt cap. Place the knife on the wood to be split and release the pall by pulling a trigger on the lower part of the guard. The hammer will swing in an arc and strike the spine with considerable impact. Since the stroke is guided by the pivot, there can never be a misplaced blow. In an emergency, just swinging the knife hard will move the hammer back by Newton's first law of motion, and then as the blade strikes the target, the hammer will slam home making the knife blow more efficient ( part of the same law). This may be a real advantage if used for defense against a Grizzly Bear.

I am sure Bruce Bump has made a bunch of these.
 
These are some phenomenal ideas. I think a see a collab with TOPS knives in the near future. Maybe SHOT show 2017?
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
It is really simple physics:
You place a spring loaded hammer on the spine with the end pivoted at the guard. The length from the center of the head to the end of the hammer handle is the distance from the pivot to the center of force spot on the spine. Pull the hammer back and latch with the pall on the butt cap. Place the knife on the wood to be split and release the pall by pulling a trigger on the lower part of the guard. The hammer will swing in an arc and strike the spine with considerable impact. Since the stroke is guided by the pivot, there can never be a misplaced blow. In an emergency, just swinging the knife hard will move the hammer back by Newton's first law of motion, and then as the blade strikes the target, the hammer will slam home making the knife blow more efficient ( part of the same law). This may be a real advantage if used for defense against a Grizzly Bear.

I am sure Bruce Bump has made a bunch of these.
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That is prett'near how I thunk it. Though, I was 'cipherin on installing a double action spring set up for multiple push button hits.
 
Just a quick tip for those who may not have the machining prowess or proper tooling for an auto batonning feature. Heck, maybe you consider yourself a traditionalist, and like to adhere to the old school methods and mindsets...

Get yourself a steel fence post, like so:
651082805009lg.jpg


If your local farm supply is out of stock, I've seen thousands of them along the rural county roadsides, still in their original wire packaging...

Next step is to slot the bottom end to fit over the spine of your knife. Very similar to slotting a guard. If the fit ends up a little loose, just fill with copious amounts of solder. Alternatively, you can stick weld, or braze it into place.

Finally, get one of these post drivers:
img9652429med.jpg


Now you simply position your blade over whatever you'd like to baton, and just pretend your driving a fence post into it.
 
knife to a gunfight said:
Just a quick tip for those who may not have the machining prowess or proper tooling for an auto batonning feature. Heck, maybe you consider yourself a traditionalist, and like to adhere to the old school methods and mindsets...

Get yourself a steel fence post, like so:
651082805009lg.jpg


If your local farm supply is out of stock, I've seen thousands of them along the rural county roadsides, still in their original wire packaging...

Next step is to slot the bottom end to fit over the spine of your knife. Very similar to slotting a guard. If the fit ends up a little loose, just fill with copious amounts of solder. Alternatively, you can stick weld, or braze it into place.

Finally, get one of these post drivers:
img9652429med.jpg


Now you simply position your blade over whatever you'd like to baton, and just pretend your driving a fence post into it.
Click to expand...

Genius!
 
No no no...

What you need to do is get a froe... whatever those are used for..

Gransfors%20froe.jpg


Grind a flat spot in the middle of the edge to accommodate the spine of your knife. Then get a friend with one of these thingies...

pACE3-957834dt.jpg


And have him use the sledge face to strike the froe, that in turn drives your knife through the wood you intend to batton. This is good up to wrist size wood. You need to make a bigger knife(like a Tom Brown "Tracker") for anything larger in diameter.
 
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