KA-BAR Tech Talk

LG&M,

L6 is a great steel. I've played with several of Larry Harley's knives out of L6 and they were superb cutters and very tough. (Of course, he austempers his blades so that helps tremendously) Larry is one of the Kings of L6.
Here is the issue with L6 and many of the other superb knife steels: Getting sufficient quantities and in the sizes and thickness's that we need to process. Many Smiths use L6 as it is readily available in rods and bars which is conducive for smiths. However, it is not conducive for production. It is hard to get in sheets and in the size, thickness and tonnage we require. Also many of the fancy steels require very different processing methods (different grinding wheels, heat treat protocols, blanking/cutting processes; etc. To name a few things). We have the technical knowledge but are not ready to commit large times, monies and effort to large scale production without assurances of good ROI. Remember, we make a LOT of knives, so the scale of economy is very different from the Custom Smiths and Stock Removal makers.
As you can guess from this post and the many others I have posted concerning steel; it's not about the steel. That's the easy part. It's about all of the other ancillary and secondary things that cause the issues. I get steel samples all the time. Love them all. There are a lot of great knife steels out there by a lot of great steel companies. But unless we can figure out all of the issues that are created from adding a new steel, we have to beg off.
Sorry for the long winded explaination. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives

I came here to ask about the D2. Toooj is RIGHT. I had another knife in D2 and it was absolutely hell to sharpen.

And what??? Did I just read Ka-Bar is really releasing the BK10? That is sweet! I know a lot of guys will be asking the release date and the answer will be the same (when it's ready), but I think for BK&T fans, we will be on the edge of our seats.

Will Ka-bar go with a nylon sheath, with a molded insert or a molded plastic/ GRN sheath?

Thanks!
 
BRL,


the 710,

We have several folder protos out for testing (Moose?) but so far there have been issues. Cost and price points seem to be the biggest road blocks right now. The folders are well designed, well built, USA made but sourced. When we start to add all of the pricing layers, the end user will end up with an excellent but EXTREMELY expensive folder. That is not the KA-BAR nor the Becker way. So we continue to work.

Hope all of this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives

Sorry for double posting and I don't want to sound like I am acting like I am more knowledgeable than you, but maybe for folders, you could use a thicker liner (mill out to save weight), like ZT does or a larger lock bar, which goes deeper. For the liner, you could use a full thickness slab of G10 on one side, and on the lock side, there could be a liner, with a thinner slab of g10. Maybe 14C28N steel could be used. In my experience it is every bit as good as VG-10 or 154CM both in rust resistance and edge holding. Price on that steel isn't bad considering its quality, plus I saw somewhere that you said you like Sandviks. I think a tough, yet competitively priced folder is a possibility in this case, maybe I'm wrong though. Just a thought.
 
I've been enjoying my BK2, and have been considering getting a 7, 9, 11, 16, and maybe another 2. I'm concerned about the laser etch though.

Stripping the coating off seems to be the norm, at least judging by most of the knife forums out there. I stripped mine and love the way it looks. With the roll stamped knives, stripping them still leaves the logos nice and clear, and allows the brand to be displayed very proudly. On the etched ones, as far as I've been able to tell, they are hardly visible, or very shallow. I read in another thread that Mr. Becker said that it was more of a "Theoretical" improvement than a necessary one. That theoretical improvement is really the only thing keeping me from buying the rest of the line.

Could you tell us anything about what went into the decision to switch to the etch? I hope I'm not offending anyone, but looks are just as important as functionality. I don't know if you guys take suggestions/recommendations to the table, but I really don't understand the need for the change, and I'm curious. Since the new etched ones don't seem to be in wide circulation yet, I haven't seen much outcry, but when people do discuss it they all seem to say the same thing - the etch looks cool with the coating, but without it the blade looks really bare, can't hardly see the etch. Since customizing these knives is so popular, it surprised me to see that one of the most common customizations (removing the coating) essentially wipes the brand recognition from the metal. Is there a way to etch it deeper at the factory? At least as deep as the stamped version? What are the benefits as well as the limitations of the laser etching? IMHO, the Beckers were instant classics that didn't really need any change, much like the USMC F/U. Anyway, I'm just curious about what went into deciding on the changes. Thanks!
 
I've been enjoying my BK2, and have been considering getting a 7, 9, 11, 16, and maybe another 2. I'm concerned about the laser etch though.

Stripping the coating off seems to be the norm, at least judging by most of the knife forums out there. I stripped mine and love the way it looks. With the roll stamped knives, stripping them still leaves the logos nice and clear, and allows the brand to be displayed very proudly. On the etched ones, as far as I've been able to tell, they are hardly visible, or very shallow. I read in another thread that Mr. Becker said that it was more of a "Theoretical" improvement than a necessary one. That theoretical improvement is really the only thing keeping me from buying the rest of the line.

Could you tell us anything about what went into the decision to switch to the etch? I hope I'm not offending anyone, but looks are just as important as functionality. I don't know if you guys take suggestions/recommendations to the table, but I really don't understand the need for the change, and I'm curious. Since the new etched ones don't seem to be in wide circulation yet, I haven't seen much outcry, but when people do discuss it they all seem to say the same thing - the etch looks cool with the coating, but without it the blade looks really bare, can't hardly see the etch. Since customizing these knives is so popular, it surprised me to see that one of the most common customizations (removing the coating) essentially wipes the brand recognition from the metal. Is there a way to etch it deeper at the factory? At least as deep as the stamped version? What are the benefits as well as the limitations of the laser etching? IMHO, the Beckers were instant classics that didn't really need any change, much like the USMC F/U. Anyway, I'm just curious about what went into deciding on the changes. Thanks!

Ok, Toooj is still on vacation, so, I'll try to handle this one. Or at least it may satisfy you until Toooj brings some info.

Roll stamping puts tremendous pressure on the blade during the manufacturing. The steel is annealed, stamped, then re hardened. Then, it must be straightened. If it is not properly straightened, then when it goes to be cut, the "grind" is not even. There were several instances of blades going out the door, "bent" from the roll stamp process.

Laser etching, takes all that out. Its a one step process, that is done now, on a completely finished blade. Also, designers must build in "real estate" in a knife's design, to allow for roll stamping. You need an area large enough to support a roll stamp. Laser etching, can be done in an area the size of your pinky nail, and still have extremely crisp clarity.

As for stripping, the laser etch is still there, in the steel, its just golden. It blends in with a stripped blade. If you wish to see it stand out, pull the old "Glock" trick, and color it whatever color you choose, then take some steel wool and remover the excess. The etching, will now be very detailed, and will give you the stand out you desire. Or you could use a crayon. Works just as well, and can be easily removed and modified.

Lasers are hot. Deep etching, say, as deep as the roll stamp, are going to begin to mess with the temper and hardening of the blade, plus, you'll have more slag and additional cleaning required to make a completed blade.

The idea behind every change, are in effect, brought on by customers. But the ultimate goal is to produce a fantastic product, here in the USA, for the least amount of money as possible, allowing everyone to make a profit and the end user have a fine, American blade, that didn't dent their wallet. With BK&T, it is a fundamental aspect of the knives and the designs, affordable, high quality steel.

Not all of Kabar's knives sport the laser etching, the original Marine Fighting Knife will always have a roll stamp. Why? Because the always have, its part of the heritage, and iconic value of the blade.

ZK knives, have had laser etching from the start. JAB blades started with roll stamping, but will eventually have laser etching.

Less expensive to make, shortening the process by 3 procedures, and allowing the designers more flexibility, are the fundamental reasons for the change from roll stamping, to laser etching.

Hope this helps.

Moose
 
SpencerCE89,

Basically what Moose said.
I will rant on the term "Roll Stamp". Lets get that out of our vocabulary. Roll stamping has nothing to do with our knives. "Stamping" or "embossing" is the proper terminalogy. (Okay, end of rant)
All steel coming from the mill has residual stress in it. Even with annealing, stresses are still in there. All manufacturing processes (ie; blanking, laser cutting, grinding, heat treating) add to the stresses or allow the stresses to release in (mostly) bad ways.
Laser marking is a way to reduce adding to the internal stresses. Remember that run of warped BK-11s? That was a result of the stresses induced from stamping. Yes; it is hard to see with the Powder Coat removed. Sorry for ruining your powder coat stripping adventures. However, I'm thinking most people want straight, evenly ground blades.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Is there any stacked leather planned for the Combat Khukri? I am going to get one of these knives and I do like the black, nice and comfy, but just wondering about the leather?
 
Interesting, thanks for the replies Moose and Tooj. Again, didn't mean to offend, I'm still learning about the technical side of what goes into the creation. I was aware of the possibility of stress fractures, but figured it was unlikely with a thick blade. But I wasn't aware of warping. That changes a lot. A straight blade/grind is definitely the most important thing.
 
L4NE4,

I also would want to see that. However, the leather turning machine won't accommodate the bend of the blade. But I will bring it up in our next manufacturing meeting.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
L4NE4,

I also would want to see that. However, the leather turning machine won't accommodate the bend of the blade. But I will bring it up in our next manufacturing meeting.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives

Thanks! I am going to get the one with your handle now because I love how it fills my hand. And I had no hot spots with my cutlass.
 
Hey Toooj,

I got my machax in about a week or so ago but one thing thats kinda bothered be about it is the width of the blade which comes in at 27mm. It just looks really thin in comparison to all the pics I've seen of it before...Is it just me or has mine been ground a little to much? I did convex it however theres still bits of the original factory edge along the edge so its not like I went crazy on a belt sander or anything. Appreciate any help.


009 by CamH_16, on Flickr


015 by CamH_16, on Flickr
 
Hey I just saw the new nylon sheaths on the BK7 and the BK9, and I just wanted to say that they look great.

I was wondering though if the BK2 will be getting a similar nylon sheath?

Thanks ahead of time :)
 
Cam H,

Your BK-4 is okay. Spot on are far as dimensions go. Don't worry.
Even though it looks narrow, the throat is very strong and it also allows for fine shaving and carving work.

Addictedd,

The BK-2 will be getting a soft sheath option that is modeled after the other sheath upgrades. It will be offered as a knife/sheath package and as a stand alone.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Cam H,

Your BK-4 is okay. Spot on are far as dimensions go. Don't worry.
Even though it looks narrow, the throat is very strong and it also allows for fine shaving and carving work.

Addictedd,

The BK-2 will be getting a soft sheath option that is modeled after the other sheath upgrades. It will be offered as a knife/sheath package and as a stand alone.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives

Phew...Thanks for your help Toooj :). Nylon sheaths for the 2 would be cool to see in future aswell.
 
instructed,

The new sheaths are available now. (I'm sure you will be able to find them on the KA-BAR website or elsewhere) The new BK-2 sheath and the BK-24 will be available Jan 2013.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Where would one look for pictures of these sheaths? Also, when can I expect the release of the bk24? Thank you very much.

DSCN1869_zps08230f3e.jpg


DSCN1870_zps2ad2fe05.jpg


DSCN1871_zps2df0d73d.jpg


DSCN1879_zps0e440e6c.jpg
 
sweet. those new sheaths are great. imho.

now that i'm between jobs, i actually have time to scope out all the new things :>
 
I don't come in here much, but I just want to say that the quality and availability of information here on page 25 provided by Toooj and Moose is really incredible to see.

SpencerCE: If you want a deeper etch, you can continue by chemical means what Ka-Bar began by thermodynamics.
Before you strip, clean the edge with a solvent such as acetone. Make sure it's all gone.
Then etch it deeper using the PCB/FC, vinegar, or other electrochemical methods. The coating should act as a nice resist. Then strip and you'll have a deeper, more visible mark.

-Daizee
 
I was wondering about the duplex grind on the grass machete. Why was that the choice?

I saw some people beating the hell out of this blade and from what I can see it takes it quite well. Is the secondary bevel hollow? The reason I ask is any hollow ground knife I have used roughly has severely chipped at the edge where the hollow grind ends into the edge.
 
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