I have a knack or gift, if you will, at taking a simple task and making it more difficult. In terms of making traditional knives with the stock removal method, a fixed blade is a simple thing to make. Cut it out, clean it up, grind away every thing that doesn't look like a knife, stick some handle material on the sides, yada yada yada, yackity schmackity, and VIOLA!...you have a knife.
I like carbon steel. I like 52100. This stuff really gets a glassy, sharp edge when polished. The one thing about it, though, is it has a tendency to warp and pit, or at least it does when I HT it. But, I like the steel so I made this one out of 52100...and it warped and pitted a wee bit. I set it aside after HT and worked on other things. It was hanging around on my bench and I picked it up and looked at it from time to time but I just didn't have the gumption to SEE IF I could make something good out of this thing.
The air quench steels spoil a fella. They generally emerge from the heat treating process dead flat due to the fact that I use a plate quenching process. Apparently I just needed to warm up to the idea of working with this POS (I had bad thoughts about it) and what could I do with a torch and creative tensioning (sounds better than bending). Most of the warp was in the handle and that was relatively easy to straighten. I decided I would work out any other deviation in the tang by tapering it on the grinder. The blade half would get corrected in finish grinding because it was slight. That wasn't so bad now was it?
The pits. What can I do with the pits? Etch it dumba$$! That's a money move right there, and I love patina, if you haven't noticed.
It wasn't badly pitted and it's just a little bit more character.
Overall I am happy with how this one turned out but it is more work to use 52100. That said, I am not going to stop using it. I really like the stuff. Here are the stats: 8.25" Bose Drop Point Hunter, 1/8" 52100 blade w/tapered tang, brown canvas micarta covers