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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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KME and BKT's, A sharpening tutorial....
- Thread starter Moosez45
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Thank you sir for the quick reply.
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Oh, no worries.
I started doing it on my BKT Shorts. Not sure why, but man, that slightly thinner edge will cut so much better. Since I don't smack them around as hard as some of my bigger blades, a thinner edge is in no danger.
Moose
That setup is about a one million percent improvement over lansky setups. I used those for quite a few years until I learned how to freehand sharpen properly. If I went back to one of these type of systems I would pick this kit up without a doubt.
Thanks for the tutorial, these things help tons of people.
Thanks for the tutorial, these things help tons of people.
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- Mar 11, 2011
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- 26,006
I didn't realize how cheaply made the Lansky was until I got it. Of course, it didn't cost that much, just sayin'...
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Yeah, I didn't either. At around $30 for a Lansky, I've had to spend nearly double that in stones. They soapdish easy, and the stones will come loose from the stone holder quite often. Especially the diamond hones.
I got a DMT Guide as well, but it seemed to have irregular degree markings. For the price of the KME, so far, I haven't had any issues and if I did, that lifetime warranty helps.
I once talked to Ron about it, he told me, "If it falls out of your truck in the driveway and gets run over, send it back, I'll send another one out".
I think that's a bit extreme, but he backs up his product 100%.
Moose
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- Mar 11, 2011
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I have to say, it's a hell of a deal. All made in the USA, lifetime guarantee, and looks to be a kick ass product. I think $100 for the standard kit is a hell of a good deal. I'll get one after I get back to work.
Yeah, I totally hear you. I have the Work Sharp system and use it on most of my blades. I've got the recurve/convex thing workable on the Machax, but it's definitely trickier.
I'd love to see more detail on your Machax sharpening technique.
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- Oct 12, 2010
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Thanks for taking the time to put this together, Moose. Very informative and much appreciated.
Maybe guided sharpeners aren't that bad after all.
With the Machax, would you just have to do a small section at a time, then slide it down the clamp?
Also, I've never heard of using a canvas strop before. Is there much of a difference between that and a loaded leather strop?
Maybe guided sharpeners aren't that bad after all.
With the Machax, would you just have to do a small section at a time, then slide it down the clamp?
Also, I've never heard of using a canvas strop before. Is there much of a difference between that and a loaded leather strop?
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- Jul 14, 2010
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Thanks for taking the time to put this together, Moose. Very informative and much appreciated.
Maybe guided sharpeners aren't that bad after all.
With the Machax, would you just have to do a small section at a time, then slide it down the clamp?
Also, I've never heard of using a canvas strop before. Is there much of a difference between that and a loaded leather strop?
I sharpen recurves just like I would anything else, but it changes the edge angle. I just roll with it. I have a puck that I use too, but I just flat out don't like recurves.
Canvas, leather, denim, cardboard, it don't matter, as long as it will hold a charge, it will strop.
Moose
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Bumping this thread in hopes to hear more input and more recent reviews. Thinking about putting it on my Christmas List (I have been good). Everyone still loving it? What do you think basic model or worth the extra $ for diamonds? I would be maintaining factory edges at first and as my skill level grows... who knows. My users are mainly esee's (3,4,5) and beckers (14,2,9) (17 & 7 to come) but I would occasionally use it for others. Not sure if I could get it to work on khukuri's, tomahawks, hatchets, etc. I would probably finish my knives off with light sandpaper/mousepad or leather stropping but I want to make sure my angles are right first. Thanks for any advice and thanks moose for the original post.
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I still love mine, but Ron and KME has been swamped. Every set he gets built, is going out the door, as fast as he can. The one's we were supposed to get for giveaways here, got swallowed up by the business monster, that is orders.
I need to call Ron, but since its the holidays, I'll wait and give him a shout on Monday.
Moose
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- Jan 6, 2007
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I've had my KME rig for about two months now. I've done some good work with it, and I've figured out a few things about the system.
1. If you already have the edge angle you like on your knife, the KME will do an amazing job of putting an edge on it.
2. If you don't already have the edge angle you want on your knife, reprofiling it can take a while on the KME. Because of the shorter stones, going from say a 50 degree inclusive to a 40 takes some time. Not too excessive, but more than I'd like. For major reprofiling of a v-grind, I prefer to use a Japanese waterstone first to break the shoulders of the bevel off and get the angle close, then finish on the KME. This makes for a really sharp edge. I'm not a master at sharpening freehand on stones yet, so the ability to put a consistent edge on a knife with the stones is worth the price of the KME.
In truth, I'm still way better on the Work Sharp, but this I think is due more to practice than anything.
3. The KME is the best way to put an edge on serrated blades that I've ever found. Though I don't really care much for serrations these days, I've used them for work for twenty years now, and this is the first time I've been happy with my results sharpening my Spyderco's and similar serrated knives. :thumbup:
4. Small blades like Swiss Army Knives are damned near impossible to sharpen on the KME. The blades are too narrow and the KME's clamp gets in the way. Add to that the fact that SAK's have a 30 degree inclusive edge and the KME only goes down to 34 degree, and you have a problem. A Work Sharp or freehand in probably a better choice for the little blades.
5. Scandi-ground knives also present the same problems as the SAK blades. Too narrow and the angle too low. Freehand is a better way for the Moras and similar blades.
6. I think if I could do it over that I'd go with the diamond hones over the regular stones. I'm going to get a set of those diamond stones next.
Now, like any other system out there, the KME has a learning curve. Moose does a great job with the KME. I've seen Ethan use on of his 16's on some branches, and Moose can get an edge on the KME that I simply can't. Not sure what I'm missing, but for whatever reason, I'm better at sharpening with my belt sander, Work Sharp, and waterstones.
All that being said, I should note that my observations with the KME could be totally off. If there are some tricks to using it that I'm missing, I love to know them.
Would I buy a KME again? Yep, definitely. Do I need more practice with it? Yep, definitely. I imagine I'll get better with the KME over time.
1. If you already have the edge angle you like on your knife, the KME will do an amazing job of putting an edge on it.
2. If you don't already have the edge angle you want on your knife, reprofiling it can take a while on the KME. Because of the shorter stones, going from say a 50 degree inclusive to a 40 takes some time. Not too excessive, but more than I'd like. For major reprofiling of a v-grind, I prefer to use a Japanese waterstone first to break the shoulders of the bevel off and get the angle close, then finish on the KME. This makes for a really sharp edge. I'm not a master at sharpening freehand on stones yet, so the ability to put a consistent edge on a knife with the stones is worth the price of the KME.
In truth, I'm still way better on the Work Sharp, but this I think is due more to practice than anything.
3. The KME is the best way to put an edge on serrated blades that I've ever found. Though I don't really care much for serrations these days, I've used them for work for twenty years now, and this is the first time I've been happy with my results sharpening my Spyderco's and similar serrated knives. :thumbup:
4. Small blades like Swiss Army Knives are damned near impossible to sharpen on the KME. The blades are too narrow and the KME's clamp gets in the way. Add to that the fact that SAK's have a 30 degree inclusive edge and the KME only goes down to 34 degree, and you have a problem. A Work Sharp or freehand in probably a better choice for the little blades.
5. Scandi-ground knives also present the same problems as the SAK blades. Too narrow and the angle too low. Freehand is a better way for the Moras and similar blades.
6. I think if I could do it over that I'd go with the diamond hones over the regular stones. I'm going to get a set of those diamond stones next.
Now, like any other system out there, the KME has a learning curve. Moose does a great job with the KME. I've seen Ethan use on of his 16's on some branches, and Moose can get an edge on the KME that I simply can't. Not sure what I'm missing, but for whatever reason, I'm better at sharpening with my belt sander, Work Sharp, and waterstones.
All that being said, I should note that my observations with the KME could be totally off. If there are some tricks to using it that I'm missing, I love to know them.
Would I buy a KME again? Yep, definitely. Do I need more practice with it? Yep, definitely. I imagine I'll get better with the KME over time.