knifemaker's challenge

On a side note: Scagel's mark was a wavy blade but i cant seem to find out if he ever actually made on like that? anyone know? Is there any story out there behind the origin of scagels wavy blade makers mark?
 
If I remember what Dr. Lucie said, Scagel used a Kris as a mark, but never made one. Bill made hunting and outdoors use knives.
 
Ahh , thanks for the info Stacy.

Ive got my blade ready to head to heat treaters....well no its half ground at 80 grit...I should probably take it past 120 grit for the quench.....But boy! its fun to grind for sure. I ended up tracking my belt a little bit off each side of the platen and grinding at a bit of an angle. I also used the 2" wheel on the bottom of the platen to keep things even. Ill post a pic soon
 
please do post a pic. I'm glad to see this thread revived. I had to travel and got a bit behind, but hope to send out for HT after this weekend.
 
I hope that others are still making a Kris.
I finally had some time to work on it and got a guard fit and some distal taper, so they are off to heat treat tomorrow.
 
Mine is headed to Peters. Its only maybe a third of the way ground at this point.
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Si signore :) two I've destroyed and I'm working on a third one .With Hand file this time ... no more mistakes ;)
 
I'm traveling, but got the completed job email from Peters yesterday. I'll be working on them as soon as I get back. Natlek, can you please add some details on how you destroyed them? I hope to avoid messing them up as they are already heat treated.
 
i got lost in yardwork the past few weeks. hopefully i can make something after this current project !
 
Richard338 said:
I'm traveling, but got the completed job email from Peters yesterday. I'll be working on them as soon as I get back. Natlek, can you please add some details on how you destroyed them? I hope to avoid messing them up as they are already heat treated.
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How I destroyed them ? Easy ! To easy ! I just need to start to grind right side ........ :D I can grind free hand whatever you want , BUT only from LEFT side :mad: And I can t think of any useful jig for this , so ...........I hope that I was not forget how file jig works ......... :) I have no more steel so I will use this 7 mm. thick Si7 steel .... once when I order some steel I push wrong button and I get this steel too :(
Third attempt ...... :thumbsup:
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Don t you think that he know something I don t know yet .....looks like he know that I will fail again :eek:
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Let's the game begin...............;)
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So here it is .......THE mother and the father of all grinders :D Half round file is best for this weave blade ........

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And here we are.......three side almost done ;)

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I need to change little radius here / I count other side as good one/ to match grind line ...file jig is best to tell where geometry is no good ..
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Now , I have few questions .....
This thing need to be sharp at the end , right ? I cant grind after HT so if it need to be sharp I must go to very thin edge before HT ...
Can I try hamon on this steel ?
SPRING-STEEL 55SI7 (1.5026)
C:0,55%/Si:1,8%/Mn:0,8%/Cr:0,4%/Mo:0,4%/Ni:0,4%

-Extremely tough for shock loads at relatively high hardness.
-Hardness of about 56-58 HRC rockwell
-easy grindable
-recommended for Battle ready weapons or blades that must have high breaking strength
-sharpness level C to D

Hardening 850 ° C / annealing at 220 ° C for 1 hr. to golden yellow = ca. 56-58 HRC
 
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Thanks Richard ! I destroy two very good file . I try to skip HT and decide to use file.........But , when you make mistake while grinding this kind of blade ....it s done ! No return , no repairs ! Except to continue and to make a toothpick at the end :)
 
That steel won't take a hamon. All blades need grinding and/or sanding afterHT. Don't go below .02" at the edge pre-HT. Use sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to sand along the curves. Files won't cut on hardened steel. Stones, abrasive paper, grinding belts are needed after HT.
 
I started grinding one of them today. It's extremely difficult. I'm trying to free hand, ride the roller coaster, twisting as I go to follow the waves. My design has very pronounced waves which makes it all the more difficult.
I am using a fresh 80 grit belt and going slowly with a light touch.
After about an hour, I feel like I'm getting the hang of it, and I'm optimistic that it won't be a disaster.
I notice a tendency to create thin spots in the troughs, and have to go over the crests to even it out. I can see the beginning of a pretty cool looking blade if I don't mess up too badly.
Hopefully I'll have something worthy of a photo by the weekend...
 
I was having the same difficulties you describe Richard, I am excited to get mine back from Peter's , I sure hope the blade is in good shape. I think I will be trying to do a decent looking belt finish, probably with a scrotchbrite finish. Natlek those grinds look excellent, I bet you can take it down to thickness enough before heat treat so that afterwords you only need to apply a secondary bevel for sharpening. These blades are rather stout cross sections right? What do you guys think would be a good performance tests for this type of knife?
 
timos- said:
I was having the same difficulties you describe Richard, I am excited to get mine back from Peter's , I sure hope the blade is in good shape. I think I will be trying to do a decent looking belt finish, probably with a scrotchbrite finish. Natlek those grinds look excellent, I bet you can take it down to thickness enough before heat treat so that afterwords you only need to apply a secondary bevel for sharpening. These blades are rather stout cross sections right? What do you guys think would be a good performance tests for this type of knife?
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Thanks Tim . Yes , that was plan.....
 
I m almost done with blade .Now it is about 0.6mm on edge and when I finish with file drawing?? and little sandpaper to finis before HT I expect to be little under 0.5mm .......If I have time tomorrow I will HT :)
 
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