I know a kukri can split logs if needed, but after watching the above video it seemed very cumbersome to do that, at least for those size logs. would an ax be better for that job?
For the kind of splitting that AKB is doing in that video I don't think anyone would say that an axe or logsplitter wouldn't be a better choice. Thing about khukuris is they can handle that kind of work while also being able to do so many tasks that an axe just can't. I think the size of the logs shown in that video are chosen for entertainment value and comedic effect- nobody is relying on a 13" rat tail khukuri to go through a huge round like that. They do a much better job with smaller wood. However, the point stands that they still do manage it. 9" khukuris can be quite useful and handy but they do really lack chopping power and have a lot more overlap in utility with bowies than with hatchets.
Andrew, I have considered the Pensioner.I don't want an excessively thick or heavy kukri. Don't intend on chopping and processing wood with mine but more something more lively and can do light to moderate chopping of woods but also a fighter.I still have yet to fully explore your site.
Rosewood is beautiful, but I think I would go for the long life Micarta handle, Kydex sheath, and then there's the question about finish. Personally I think the satin is beautiful, but does acid wash make more sense? As for grind, I'm thinking heavy duty....
...there is something about that Pensioner that is just plain sexy. I do wonder about the weight of the bigger blade. Going with a rat-tail tang might help. Thoughts?
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Do you have a comparison pic of the Pensioner to the Historical Service Issue?
A few things I can offer a bit of guidance on here.
Pensioner weight: We make khukuris across a very wide range of balances and sizes. While the 13" pensioner is more powerful and larger than the 11.5" Historical Service Issue, it's still of quite a moderate balance within our lineup. I think it's lively enough in balance and weight to be a fighter, but also has the heft required to chop really well and excel at wood processing. The Ek Chirra would sit partway between the pensioner and the HSI. The fullering keeps it very trim so the extra length doesn't really hamper the liveliness. The extra length still helps with brush clearing and chopping though.
Something that's worth keeping in mind is that when we say one of our blades is heavier it's in comparison to the rest of the knives we sell. In the grand scheme of khukuris available for sale, our pensioner is much more lively and lighter than a similar blade from KHHI, EGKH or Himalayan Imports. Our weights and balances are close to that of Tora as a reference. Unfortunately I can't find any images with both a pensioner and a HSI in it.
razorburn
it's hard for me to get a gauge of what you'd consider light without knowing the kind of khukuri experience you already have. If you tell me a little more I can give you some personalised suggestions
Rat Tail Tang vs Full tang: Rat tail tangs do reduce the overall weight of a blade, but they also produce a more aggressive forward balance because the weight is cut at the back of the handle. As
D
DangerZone98
has mentioned, on khukuris that are larger and thicker this can sometimes be too pronounced and lead to a feeling of reduced control. This is a particular issue with modern blades that have spine thicknesses or bevels thicker than a lot of older rat tail blades had. Our traditional blades are usually quite light and lean so we taper our full tangs and drill them to maintain a traditional balance as best we can. On some larger customs though we'll often spec an untapered full tang or a plate pommel for counterweight, but this isn't a typical feature of nepali blade culture. We can do a full tang on any of our blades upon request by email, we just have to process it as a custom instead of through the website.
Options info:
Kydex vs western leather sheath- I personally prefer a western leather sheath for a hard working blade as they're very simple, feel a bit more solid and are quieter. Kydex is fully weatherproof though, more versatile and reduced carry weight. Carry options and retention for both of them are the same as standard so they're quite similar really and both great options.
Blade Finish- Satin is a great working finish and is easy to bring a blade back to after it gets dinged and scratched up. The acid wash is a bit more bling out of the box and has better corrosion resistance. It's harder to maintain the hamon clarity with use, but it's a great foundation for a solid patina that you earn over time. As it leaves, a whole bunch of dings and scratches arrive that tell a story and are beautiful too.
Grind- When thinking about these grinds worth noting that Nepali blades in general are all ground tanky as hell. Our standard grind is leaner than most other blades in the country but still makes western blades look like ballerinas. Unless you're particularly keen on the idea of an unconditional warranty (if the blade breaks at all from any activity then we'll replace it) like you get with the Heavy Duty grind, I'd say you would benefit from going leaner. Have a look at the info and warranty here
https://kailashblades.com/warranty-and-factory-seconds/ then I'd suggest finding the roughest application you would be likely to use the knife for then choose the leanest grind that covers it. You'll thank yourself for the increased cutting efficiency later on.
Handle material- The stacked leather is buffalo leather and as a result it's a little harder than what you might have encountered on a kabar etc. With this said though it is the best at absorbing handle vibrations and also is pretty grippy. The Micarta is even grippier wet or dry though and is completely bombproof. With proper khukuri chopping technique harsh vibrations through chopping can be reduced a lot also.
Take care,
Andrew and the team at Kailash