Lets see some Hinderer action

I really want to get a Battle Black ti front scale too but theirs just no way in hell im spending $215. Sorry Rick, that’s just crazy!
 
Like I said a few pages back, $200 for a Ti scale is stupid pricey. That’s a brand new nice knife.
But whatevs, when ya gotta have it, most any price will be paid.
I want a smooth CF XM scale and I thought $100 was steep.
One day I’ll have an all Battle Blue XM somethin’ though.
 
My XM-24 with the Tri-Way pivot arrived from DLT today, my first real Hinderer:

2j4pnp4.jpg


t84upk.jpg


I already want a textured Ti scale. When I get one I'll pick up some anodized (bronze) Ti hardware, clip, plug, etc to go with it.


These new 24s on Tri Way Pivot are just freaking awesome. It is good to see some people showing them off!

https://flic.kr/p/2eXTviShttps://www.flickr.com/photos/59094695@N06/
 
These new 24s on Tri Way Pivot are just freaking awesome. It is good to see some people showing them off!


They are awesome, on bearings they fall shut unbelievably fast. As smooth as it is it is still a beast!

I hope I don't have to wait too long for my Ti scale and hardware.
 
Has Battle Blue only ever been offered with a Working Finish blade? Ever see a Stonewashed blade with a Battle Blue lock side?
You guys are killing me with these 24s.
I really want one.
 
Has Battle Blue only ever been offered with a Working Finish blade? Ever see a Stonewashed blade with a Battle Blue lock side?
You guys are killing me with these 24s.
I really want one.


The best way to explain this is that Battle Blue is Working Finish titanium that has been anodized blue. Blue Ano is stonewashed titanium that has been anodized blue. While they mix it up every blue moon, you almost never see a working finish ti handle with a stonewashed blade so Battle Blue 99.99% of the time is going to have a working finish blade. I hope that makes sense? If not I will try to explain it better in the morning when I have had more sleep!

If the ones out now are killing you, the ones coming in tomorrow are going to throw you right off the cliff:eek::eek::D
 
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The best way to explain this is that Battle Blue is Working Finish titanium that has been anodized blue. Blue Ano is stonewashed titanium that has been anodized blue. While they mix it up every blue moon, you almost never see a working finish ti handle with a stonewashed blade so Battle Blue 99.99% of the time is going to have a working finish blade. I hope that makes sense? If not I will try to explain it better in the morning when I have had more sleep!

If the ones out now are killing you, the ones coming in tomorrow are going to throw you right off the cliff:eek::eek::D
Makes perfect sense - thanks.
Sounds like it’s worth the wait! Could be an expensive March/April!
 
The best way to explain this is that Battle Blue is Working Finish titanium that has been anodized blue. Blue Ano is stonewashed titanium that has been anodized blue. While they mix it up every blue moon, you almost never see a working finish ti handle with a stonewashed blade so Battle Blue 99.99% of the time is going to have a working finish blade. I hope that makes sense? If not I will try to explain it better in the morning when I have had more sleep!

If the ones out now are killing you, the ones coming in tomorrow are going to throw you right off the cliff:eek::eek::D

Could it be......additional blade styles? I think my next XM-24 will be a spearpoint (since I already have a Spanto) in battle blue or bronze.
 
I just realized that for 5 dollars more than the scale and hardware I just ordered I could have gotten another knife I would like to get my hands on, the ZT 0562 ti. I hope this scale is really nice and my xm-18 looks epic with both installed lol.
 
Funny how things turn. It wasn't but a couple weeks back guys were buying Full Tracks, loving them, I was drooling, and thinking about a future purchase. Now after lock-stick problems, FTs got returned and there are several new beloved 24s in regulars' hands. I got out my older gen modded 24 and carried it a couple times over the last weeks. It's got a pretty soft detent but still flips well enough on its TriFlow-lubed Teflon washers and free-drops shut nicely even with all the blade stock Josh removed with his awesome re-grind. One scary-sharp MF and quite the cutter/slicer now.

obaaxZv.jpg


tlf8Pwy.jpg
 
Funny how things turn. It wasn't but a couple weeks back guys were buying Full Tracks, loving them, I was drooling, and thinking about a future purchase. Now after lock-stick problems, FTs got returned and there are several new beloved 24s in regulars' hands. I got out my older gen modded 24 and carried it a couple times over the last weeks. It's got a pretty soft detent but still flips well enough on its TriFlow-lubed Teflon washers and free-drops shut nicely even with all the blade stock Josh removed with his awesome re-grind. One scary-sharp MF and quite the cutter/slicer now.

obaaxZv.jpg


tlf8Pwy.jpg
That’s a great looking knife. I am very happy with my 24. It’s such a smooth operating knife.
I check YouTube every once in a while and did a search for Full Track. There is a video a guy put up a few days ago and he’s liking the knife. I saw M390 on the blade and feel bad for him. It’s just a matter of time until his does the same as the ones of us who had the knife I am betting. I don’t think I’ve seen any posts here from anyone with the M390 version that hasn’t sent it back.
 
Please tell me they fixed the stop pin location on the gen 6's...


Same place. I saw your video on this on youtube. Barring something dramatic like a re-profile, how many sharpenings would it take to get to the point where the metal contacting the stop pin was thin enough to get peened?
 
Same place. I saw your video on this on youtube. Barring something dramatic like a re-profile, how many sharpenings would it take to get to the point where the metal contacting the stop pin was thin enough to get peened?
Yeah I've since checked one out and you are right... reprofiling doesn't have much to do with it if you do it by hand and are careful, the apex should still remain roughly in the same location. The point is that the stop pin location dramatically reduces the blade life, and once it's done it's done - hinderer won't cover it under warranty. Peening won't fix anything once the edge recedes below the stop pin contact point, you will be left with major detent play/slop. The only way to fix this will be to change the stop pin location, probably moving it higher up in the choil area which will necessitate the removal of the flipper tab.
 
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