Lets talk GEC!

Lefty923 said:
Any preferences? Any idea what they come with from the factory?
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I think your post got merged with another, but I'll answer your question. Way to thick, that's what. Measured my pony jack at 0.018" - 0.026" immediately behind the edge bevel. That makes for a very thick edge.
 
medicevans said:
I think your post got merged with another, but I'll answer your question. Way to thick, that's what. Measured my pony jack at 0.018" - 0.026" immediately behind the edge bevel. That makes for a very thick edge.
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Thanks I just noticed that. And thanks for answering my misplaced question.
 
Agreed, almost always the edges are too heavy. While GEC certainly comes the closest to replicating the classics of the past, there are a couple areas that need to be improved in order to really emulate the best from decades ago. Smaller knives should be built proportionally lighter than larger knives, this includes thinner blades, bolsters and liners. Blades need more distal taper coupled with grinds approaching a zero edge. The best of old we're just better cutters.
 
Every GEC that comes my way gets the bevel convexed and reprofiled on a mousemat with wet and dry paper. I place the blade flat and work evenly on both sides until I hit the edge and a burr starts to form. The give of the mousemat creates my edge bevel. Not something you'd want to do on a collection piece but perfect for a user as any marks soon get lost in the patina.



Once done it's easy to strop too:)
 
The really screaming cutters I have as my GEC users have all had significant time on the heavy stones to thin out the edge. The bevel height is significantly higher when I'm done with them, but they have a good 1095 heat treat and I've never had any issues with a deforming or weak edge with such a thin angle. The final sharpening has never been their forte...but the more recent examples I have (Diamond Jack, micarta Bullnose, Radio knives) have all been very sharp out of the box even if they're a little thick behind the edge yet.
 
Fyi: They free hand sharpen on a stone wheel and hold about a 20 degree angle.

Christine Tucker
Sales
 
Speaking of edges, I get super frustrated with my sheepfoot charlow sometimes. It seems like the edge rounds itself, making it a huge pain to get sharp again. It does this every now and then after a while of use without sharpening. It's maddening because I actually worked on it side by side with a d2 blade and an s30v blade and both took WAAAAY less time to bring back to sharp. Why is this? Did I make the edge too thin and it deforms? I've actually gone from carrying the charlow 95% of the time to rarely because of this problem. I would appreciate any information or help, pm if you don't want to clutter this thread.
 
You guys can get your knife sharpening questions answered in the Tinkering and Maintenance forum. There are a lot of pictures of various types of grind angles.
 
Modoc ED said:
You guys can get your knife sharpening questions answered in the Tinkering and Maintenance forum. There are a lot of pictures of various types of grind angles.
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My question is not of angles or techniques. I have no trouble with those. I am asking specifically about gec's 1095, and if such a problem could be due to their heat treating methods, main bevel thicknesses, or what. It's not a maintenance question but a manufacturing question.
 
My response wasn't specifically addressed to you but also others above you. You are however talking about sharpening, edges rounding over, etc. and those are topics for the "Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment" forum.

I didn't mean my remark to be snippy but was trying to direct you where all of your questions could be answered.
 
Modoc ED said:
My response wasn't specifically addressed to you but also others above you. You are however talking about sharpening, edges rounding over, etc. and those are topics for the "Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment" forum.

I didn't mean my remark to be snippy but was trying to direct you where all of your questions could be answered.
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Oh no I wasn't offended or taking it personally at all. I was just saying why I thought it was more relevant here. If it's not that's fine, I'll ask in maintenance sometime. Thanks for the tip.
 
I know some folks have been asking about some more #42s...
#42LB Missouri Trader
GEC – 440C Stainless Steel
42LB GEC American Elk
42LB GEC American Chestnut
42LB GEC OD Green Linen Micarta

Tidioute – 1095 Carbon Steel
42LB Tidioute Jigged Bone – color to be determined
42LB Tidioute Osage Orange Wood
42LB Tidioute Grey Pearl Acrylic

Northfield – 1095 Carbon Steel
42LB Northfield Jigged Bone – color to be determined
42LB Northfield Cocobolo Wood
42LB Northfield Burnt Stag
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Pre ordered a Northfield bone and GEC green linen. Very interested in seeing the Tidioutes, the Osage and grey pearl have potential and the bone could be surprising! Hands down my favorite pattern :D
 
The Diamond Jack I received from Charlie the other week had a very sharp edge, capable of dry-shaving hair out of the box, first GEC I've had like that, but my Charlows came sharp, including my Sheepsfoot.
 
GEC is putting out more smaller knives now, and we all know they like to do their own thing, altering patterns just a little to be unique.

Bill, if you're reading this, how about a peanut pattern at 3¼" to 3⅜" closed. You might even consider your first shadow pattern in micarta or G10.
Anyone else interested in such a hybrid?
 
black mamba said:
Bill, if you're reading this, how about a peanut pattern at 3¼" to 3⅜" closed. You might even consider your first shadow pattern in micarta or G10.
Anyone else interested in such a hybrid?
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I have more knives than I can use in the rest of my life, and I try not to accumulate indiscriminately. But I would buy this knife in a New York Minute and maybe buy them for my children and future grandchildren as well.

I would love to see a GEC small jack with rounded bolsters on a serpentine frame.

The Case CV Peanut hits a huge sweet spot for me. Everything from the blade-handle ratio, the cutting efficiency, the short but boxy grip, the shape of the main Clip-Point blade (and I LOVE the secondary Wharncliffe like Pen on the Small Texas Jack).

But Case does not make the equivalent in a 3-1/4" frame. The Texas Jack is bigger and has square bolsters. The 22087 jack only comes in Tru-Sharp.

If GEC made a small jack/large Peanut in a 3-1/4" handle with rounded bolsters, 1095 steel on a serpentine frame it would earn my money. I normally like bone and wood handles, but a micarta shadow pattern would make this distinctive and lightweight.

Great idea!
 
Jack i too got a sharp GEC!! too...I got this off (BOGGS) thanks man im still grinning!....Awesome buffalo horn and sounds like a Luger chambering a round when its opened....This will dry shave hair easily so im sure its intended purpose of rope will be no problem at all................FES



 
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