Oh my... that 14 is awesome! Really hoping I can land one nearly as nice sometime this year!Lucky you! Would like to see a picture of all three together if you happen to have one handy. I'm missing one.. the smooth bone. I don't have a picture of my scratted with ebony, but here's the ebony with a 14 black cherry sawcut.
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Lets talk GEC!
- Thread starter rockgolfer
- Start date
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- Nov 23, 2014
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- 34
So I bought one of the #71 Farm and Field models and I'm finding the pull is way too strong. The pull is so strong, it feels like it's going to rip my thumbnail off. I don't have many slipjoints, this is my third GEC and I have two SAKs, but this is by far the strongest pull I've ever felt for a slipjoint. I tried opening and closing the knife a bunch of times to try and break it in, but all I managed to do is stab my hand and the action is still super stiff.
Any advice? Will this break in or is there an issue with the temper of the spring? Should I look into exchanging it with the vendor I purchased from or go through the manufacturer? As far as I'm concerned the dealer did an outstanding job with the transaction, so it doesn't seem fair to send it back to them. I'm not quite sure what to do, I've never really been in a situation like this before.
Any advice? Will this break in or is there an issue with the temper of the spring? Should I look into exchanging it with the vendor I purchased from or go through the manufacturer? As far as I'm concerned the dealer did an outstanding job with the transaction, so it doesn't seem fair to send it back to them. I'm not quite sure what to do, I've never really been in a situation like this before.
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- Apr 23, 2015
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- 155
I personally love the hard pull on the 71. I like the knife so much it has seen more pocket time than even the recent 77 barlow. If it rips your nails try pinching it open. Works for me very well on that pattern.
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- Jan 17, 2016
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Mine was too!
Open the knife and put 12 or so drops of mineral oil in the joint, then work the blade open/closed in bursts of 20 to 25.
It took me 20 minutes or so to see NO more black gunk coming thru the back spring/joint. Then wipe it down and add more mineral oil and repeat until the oil is clean.
I spent about 40 to 45 minutes and the pull is now very smooth and around a 6 or so.
Personally I stay away from hot soapy water & WD40 on steel frame knives (use mineral oil to avoid any chance of rust).
Best of luck
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
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- 34
Thanks for the advice! I will try some mineral oil and take more care not to poke myself again. I'll try to give an update in a few days.
Railsplitter
Gold Member
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- Oct 31, 2010
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Did you see the post above about pinching the blade open? Sounds like the perfect solution both before and after you get the action loosened up.
btb01
Gold Member
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- Jul 26, 2008
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- 7,678
I've always found the Bull Nose to be easily pinchable, but I know other folks don't feel the same way. I will say that a little patina helps a lot.
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- Jan 31, 2013
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Thank you. I like the covers used on the 14 TC's. I think the type of sawcut used on the black cherry would look good on the upcoming ancient. I forgot what it's called - wane edging or something like that. Charlie offered a contest to name this type of sawcut and gave away a free TC to someone on the forum. Here's another pic with the smooth autumn gold 14 TC...
Both gorgeous, thanks for the info and pic. Looking forward to the upcoming release(s) of these, they seem like they would be the perfect daily carry knife.Thank you. I like the covers used on the 14 TC's. I think the type of sawcut used on the black cherry would look good on the upcoming ancient. I forgot what it's called - wane edging or something like that. Charlie offered a contest to name this type of sawcut and gave away a free TC to someone on the forum. Here's another pic with the smooth autumn gold 14 TC...
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- Nov 13, 2013
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wd40, silicone, mineral oil, in that order. opened and closed the new #71 over 400 times. still a 8 or 9 pull. definitely not able to pinch, back in the tube. I give up. looks nice and even nicer in the tube - much less frustration in the tube.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
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wd40, silicone, mineral oil, in that order. opened and closed the new #71 over 400 times. still a 8 or 9 pull. definitely not able to pinch, back in the tube. I give up. looks nice and even nicer in the tube - much less frustration in the tube.
Forgive my ignorance as I'm still learning. You mention your pull is around an 8 or 9 and
DelOro
says his pull is around a 6. Is this a 1 - 10 type scale or is there a tool for measuring pull?
Old Engineer
Gold Member
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- Nov 30, 2014
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There is no definitive measurement weight in the 1 to 10 Pull ratings . They are just any person's personal rating which actually is closer than a WAG and after you start putting your own numbers to it , you kind of understand .Forgive my ignorance as I'm still learning. You mention your pull is around an 8 or 9 and
Harry
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- Nov 13, 2013
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I have no idea. I am a novice. I was merely expressing some sarcasm as I am unable to comfortably open this knife and it will remain in the tube for the time being.Forgive my ignorance as I'm still learning. You mention your pull is around an 8 or 9 and
So I'm pretty frustrated right now. I was looking at my #45 Lumberjack in Pioneer Muscle Bone in anticipation of the #46 in Muscle Bone I'm getting and each time I opened it the action got worse. This has been happening for a while, as I mentioned earlier in this thread I noticed that the tang (specifically the shoulder of the plunge line of the grind) has been digging into the liner and creating a burr/trough. Well tonight it got exponentially worse to the point that I was pretty much unable to move it past the half stop to full open. I had pretty much the same issue on my (admittedly, Store model) #25 in Unicorn Ivory Acrylic that ended up making it start to pull apart and now I'm having it rebuilt. Well, I checked the #45 and it seems to have developed some play. I'm sending it in. I don't know what they'll do or if anything can be done, but I think they should see it and I don't think this issue is my fault and I don't want it to worsen.
Considering this, I looked at my other GECs. My current count is 10, yes 10, of them have this same issue with the shoulder of the tang at the plunge grind digging into the liner. That's like 50% of my current collection. I really think they'd just need to polish this specific area and it'd fix the issue. I've included a picture to show where I mean. I invite you to check your knives for this. I don't think it creates an issue with the action (like on my #25 and #45) most of the time, but I think it's worth the extra few seconds on the buffing wheel.
I'm also sending in my #43 Oregon Trapper in stag because I've sharpened it literally over a dozen times and it still has a little blade rap, so hopefully they can sharpen it out or lengthen the tang.
The pull on my #71 OD Green started out as an 8, but after oiling and using/working it it is more like a 6.5-7 now. It is very manageable for me and I mostly pinch it open. The #71 Red Linen from the second batch that I got came as a 7. I expect it will probably work to a 6 with oiling and use, but I'm not using it for now.
Considering this, I looked at my other GECs. My current count is 10, yes 10, of them have this same issue with the shoulder of the tang at the plunge grind digging into the liner. That's like 50% of my current collection. I really think they'd just need to polish this specific area and it'd fix the issue. I've included a picture to show where I mean. I invite you to check your knives for this. I don't think it creates an issue with the action (like on my #25 and #45) most of the time, but I think it's worth the extra few seconds on the buffing wheel.
I'm also sending in my #43 Oregon Trapper in stag because I've sharpened it literally over a dozen times and it still has a little blade rap, so hopefully they can sharpen it out or lengthen the tang.
The pull on my #71 OD Green started out as an 8, but after oiling and using/working it it is more like a 6.5-7 now. It is very manageable for me and I mostly pinch it open. The #71 Red Linen from the second batch that I got came as a 7. I expect it will probably work to a 6 with oiling and use, but I'm not using it for now.
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- Dec 3, 2015
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- 2,936
To add to this, I believe a 91- or 93-mm Swiss Army Knife's main blade is considered a 5. Due to their supreme consistency in manufacturing, it makes it an easy, fairly repeatable "gauge".
knifeswapper
Knife Peddler
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- Sep 3, 2004
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I have actually installed a pressure gauge and measure the amount of force required to move a blade from full open to half open. This is helping put real numbers to spring strength.
For example: #71 - 2.9lbs; #46 Main 4.7lbs, Pen 7lbs
I do still consider "Pull" a little less consistent because of nail nick positioning, etc.
For example: #71 - 2.9lbs; #46 Main 4.7lbs, Pen 7lbs
I do still consider "Pull" a little less consistent because of nail nick positioning, etc.
So I'm pretty frustrated right now. I was looking at my #45 Lumberjack in Pioneer Muscle Bone in anticipation of the #46 in Muscle Bone I'm getting and each time I opened it the action got worse. This has been happening for a while, as I mentioned earlier in this thread I noticed that the tang (specifically the shoulder of the plunge line of the grind) has been digging into the liner and creating a burr/trough. Well tonight it got exponentially worse to the point that I was pretty much unable to move it past the half stop to full open. I had pretty much the same issue on my (admittedly, Store model) #25 in Unicorn Ivory Acrylic that ended up making it start to pull apart and now I'm having it rebuilt. Well, I checked the #45 and it seems to have developed some play. I'm sending it in. I don't know what they'll do or if anything can be done, but I think they should see it and I don't think this issue is my fault and I don't want it to worsen.
Considering this, I looked at my other GECs. My current count is 10, yes 10, of them have this same issue with the shoulder of the tang at the plunge grind digging into the liner. That's like 50% of my current collection. I really think they'd just need to polish this specific area and it'd fix the issue. I've included a picture to show where I mean. I invite you to check your knives for this. I don't think it creates an issue with the action (like on my #25 and #45) most of the time, but I think it's worth the extra few seconds on the buffing wheel.
I'm also sending in my #43 Oregon Trapper in stag because I've sharpened it literally over a dozen times and it still has a little blade rap, so hopefully they can sharpen it out or lengthen the tang.
The pull on my #71 OD Green started out as an 8, but after oiling and using/working it it is more like a 6.5-7 now. It is very manageable for me and I mostly pinch it open. The #71 Red Linen from the second batch that I got came as a 7. I expect it will probably work to a 6 with oiling and use, but I'm not using it for now.
You mean the recent #71 was only 2.9lbs?
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2016
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- 11,013
The very first GEC I bought for myself was a #71 last year. I remember when receiving it that the pull was particularly stout and though surprising (due to lack of experience), I didn't find it unmanageable, it smoothed out with use and time to a point where it had one of the most delightful actions (walk-n-talk) of any of my other knives.
Since then, I've acquired many other knives, most of them GEC, and none of them, save for a couple of exceptions, rivaled the stoutness I had come to associate with the Bull Nose. The latest run of 71s did not disappoint and though the one I got with natural micarta had a bit of grit in it, once I flushed it out a bit, it and the red one are equally fantastic.
I am certainly eager to get my #46 in, I want to compare it to the #71, sounds like it is going to be quite the beast.
Since then, I've acquired many other knives, most of them GEC, and none of them, save for a couple of exceptions, rivaled the stoutness I had come to associate with the Bull Nose. The latest run of 71s did not disappoint and though the one I got with natural micarta had a bit of grit in it, once I flushed it out a bit, it and the red one are equally fantastic.
I am certainly eager to get my #46 in, I want to compare it to the #71, sounds like it is going to be quite the beast.
Dadpool
Gold Member
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- May 18, 2015
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- 6,024
I use @confucius37's Grand Unified Traditional Pull Scale so often that it's ingrained into my head.
Not universally agreed upon or standardized, of course, but coupled with the above-mentioned "~91mm SAK main blade is a 5" starting point it's still tremendously useful.