Lets talk GEC!

As much as I'd like, I don't think I'll be able to pull off something like this.

Uwk4F7Z.jpg


I wonder if the hook will fit over the brass button on my blue jeans. :p

You just keep the posture you had for that bicycle photo and you'll look sharpen than the knife you carry. :D
 
Finally our pocketknives will be secure!

Still no pics of the bail tho. Gotta be fixed, like the Navy knives, right?
 
Finally our pocketknives will be secure!

Still no pics of the bail tho. Gotta be fixed, like the Navy knives, right?

I seriously hope so. Those floppy removable bails give me fits. And with a no-bail option on this run, there's no reason to do a removable bail.
 
As much as I'd like, I don't think I'll be able to pull off something like this.

Uwk4F7Z.jpg


I wonder if the hook will fit over the brass button on my blue jeans. :p

You're right. I got this.

yGcyrXYh.jpg


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Buzz, I was going to suggest swapping out the bike you posted in the Lounge for a penny farthing to make that look work, but I see you beat me to it. :D

I will say, though, that I think that particular outfit is too understated. I'd suggest something more like the guy on the right in this photo. You'd be stylin'.

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I'm still undecided on the bail and chain #15. I'm just going to wait to see the finished product to decide if I need one or not.
 
I use @confucius37's Grand Unified Traditional Pull Scale so often that it's ingrained into my head.

Not universally agreed upon or standardized, of course, but coupled with the above-mentioned "~91mm SAK main blade is a 5" starting point it's still tremendously useful.

From the linked thread:

The Scale:

10 - unable to open by hand
9 - able to open but breaking a nail likely
8 - able to open but very stiff, tough for edc use
7 - firm pull, edc range
6 - ideal edc range
5 - nice for secondary blades, tad light for a main blade
4 - starting to get too light for use
3 - maybe acceptable on very old knives
2 - barely closes
1 - does not stay closed

_____________________________________________________

Problem with quantifying pull weight is it varies depending on your strength.
 
When do they traditionally release pricing info for the production schedule? Curious for the first time about the reserves that are going on for those upcoming 15s...
 
LICK CREEK 14: What's the deal with the early reserve on Gunstock Jack's website for a #14? I didn't see anything the production schedule for this on the GEC website.
 
LICK CREEK 14: What's the deal with the early reserve on Gunstock Jack's website for a #14? I didn't see anything the production schedule for this on the GEC website.

It was reported that there is a run of #14s coming up but it's not official yet afaik
 
LICK CREEK 14: What's the deal with the early reserve on Gunstock Jack's website for a #14? I didn't see anything the production schedule for this on the GEC website.

SFO smooth autumn gold bone with crest shield. Should be a winner combination if you can get one.
 
Pull weight doesn’t vary according to your strength—!!! Just like distance doesn’t change depending on your eyesight and volume doesn’t change depending on your hearing.

The sooner we get a proper rating scale for the force needed to open a knife the sooner we will dispell these myths.
 
Pull weight doesn’t vary according to your strength—!!! Just like distance doesn’t change depending on your eyesight and volume doesn’t change depending on your hearing.

The sooner we get a proper rating scale for the force needed to open a knife the sooner we will dispell these myths.

How would you define "proper rating scale"? What equipment would you use to determine that scale? Who would do the testing?

That 10-point scale up in post 11990 by cbr 1000 is actually pretty useful - at least to me anyway.
 
The scale is useful, for sure. But it's only a descriptor to indicate pull force. Just as we describe a person as tall or short - we are overlaying a subjective description over a value that is objectively measurable - in that case, in feet and inches. Both tests have their uses, and people choose to use one or the other method depending on the occasion.

The point I am raising is that knife pull weight has never been, is not, and never will be a subjective test. We can apply a subjective description to it, but if the test is lacking or difficult to apply, it's not because the knife pull weight itself is subjective, and cannot be quantified with accuracy.

Just some basic stuff from a quick google search:

What are forces?
A force can be a push or a pull. For example, when you push open a door you have to apply a force to the door. You also have to apply a force to pull open a drawer.

You cannot see a force but often you can see what it does. Forces can change the speed of something, the direction it is moving in or its shape. For example, an elastic band gets longer if you pull it.

Measuring forces
ec88ac3c447e98c2f3361bf6ce0da1c26a53078f.jpg

A force meter is used to measure forces.

Forces can be measured using a force meter. Force meters contain a spring connected to a metal hook. The spring stretches when a force is applied to the hook. The bigger the force applied, the longer the spring stretches and the bigger the reading.

The unit of force is called the newton, and it has the symbol N.
 
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From the linked thread:

The Scale:

10 - unable to open by hand
9 - able to open but breaking a nail likely
8 - able to open but very stiff, tough for edc use
7 - firm pull, edc range
6 - ideal edc range
5 - nice for secondary blades, tad light for a main blade
4 - starting to get too light for use
3 - maybe acceptable on very old knives
2 - barely closes
1 - does not stay closed

_____________________________________________________

Problem with quantifying pull weight is it varies depending on your strength.

That is true, my scale would be different based on what I’m accustomed to. Also leverage is important, more important than strength. My scale would be this.

10- I don’t know what a 10 would be like, since I’ve never encountered anything with such a strong pull I couldn’t open it.
9- stout
8- ideal for use
7- good middle ground
6- good enough
5- adequate
4- barely tolerable
3- :thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
2- :thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
1- :thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
 
I think that for a totally subjective scale, such as for knife pulls, that 10 is too many divisions. I think 5 is much better, and more uniformly useful.

5 - almost impossible to open by hand
4 - quite firm, but always manageable
3 - standard SAK Pioneer pull, moderate
2 - light, but stays open and closed on its own
1 - blade sags when open, or won't stay closed

The reason I always list pulls as 5-6 or 8-9 is the subjective aspect. The 5-point system does away with this: it's either good, firm or way too firm, or good, light or way too light.
 
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