Lets talk GEC!

Ok guys i think this is where i should post this question. Just bought a GEC Bullnose cant remember the # but it just came out. It is so hard to pull open!! I have a GEC Boys knife that is perfect, its stiff but not overly. This Bullnose is a real SOB to get open. Is there a way to break in traditional knives like other folders?
 
I've been thinking about the stiff springs on the recent whalers and #71s. I'm really hoping this trend doesn't continue with the upcoming smaller knives. It'd be a bummer to have to give up the #44s I have on reserve if it's a struggle to open them.
 
JTB_5 said:
GEC can’t win lately on pull strength. Folks thought the 43s were too weak and now the 46s and 71s are too strong for folks.
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I have been telling myself that I don't need another sodbuster, but the combo of red micarta and "bear trap" pull has me reconsidering.

I love the pull on my 43s and my new 77 has about the perfect snap and pull. Been getting lucky, maybe, but GEC tends to make em how I like em.

Its a lot like art, I know it when I see it, but we're just not all going to agree on something like pull.
 
The pull on my red linen micarta 71 is firm, but not too hard. I would rate it a 7 or 8. I prefer the 6 to 8 range on a new knife. I really like my natural canvas micarta #43, the the pull - in my opinion about a 4 or maybe close to 5 - is a little too light to be ideal.

I know there are a lot of different opinions on this, but I'd rather a new knife be too firm than too light. Many people have posted what has worked for them to get a stiff pull to loosen up a bit, but the alternative of trying to tighten up a knife with a light pull seems much more problematic.
 
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Pull is completely subjective; Action is somewhat subject; Spring Strength is not subjective.

My pull rating from 1-10 is based completely on the perceived effort it takes to open a blade to half open. This is affected by the location of the nick, the radius of the tang, etc.

Action is the walk and talk of the blade while going thru the opening motion.

Spring strength is the measured force required to open / close a blade. In my case the peak measure to move a blade from full open to half open with a force gauge connected at the nick.
 
Well I think that GEC varying their springs from pattern to pattern is good, it gives people more of a chance to get a knife whose handling they approve of.

I like strong springs and usually steer away from lighter types, the 43 didn't interest me as a pattern as I think the 73 superior, but it allowed many who like a softer spring to enjoy a new larger work-knife.

You certainly can't please everybody, but you often end up making everybody moan sooner or later:D:D:D Not that that is bad either:cool:
 
Camillus said:
Pull weight doesn’t vary according to your strength—!!! Just like distance doesn’t change depending on your eyesight and volume doesn’t change depending on your hearing.

The sooner we get a proper rating scale for the force needed to open a knife the sooner we will dispell these myths.
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Using a 1-10 scale will vary depending on your strength, dexterity, and all your basic D&D skills o_O

Seriously, there's no way that someone physically fit will rate a pull the same as someone who is not.
 
Just let GEC keep doing what they're doing. When you receive your new GEC knife and don't like it because the pull isn't to your liking, or the blade isn't centered, or the bolsters are scuffed, or the blade has an itsy-bitsy scratch on it, or the covers are faded where they meet the bolsters, or there's a bit of blade rub on a stockman pattern, Return it to the dealer. That's what dealers are there for - sell their products and then take em all back because the complainers are unhappy because they expect perfection from an assembly line manufacturer. Well, we're just not going to get perfection from a mass manufacture of knives such as GEC. Pretty good, very good, an occasional excellent knife, but not a perfect knife. So just save those shrieks of grief to yourselves when your new knife isn't perfect so as to save enough energy to Return it to the dealer.
 
Hkjay said:
Ok guys i think this is where i should post this question. Just bought a GEC Bullnose cant remember the # but it just came out. It is so hard to pull open!! I have a GEC Boys knife that is perfect, its stiff but not overly. This Bullnose is a real SOB to get open. Is there a way to break in traditional knives like other folders?
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Just return it to the dealer. He'll be glad to send you another one.
 
Modoc ED said:
Just let GEC keep doing what they're doing. When you receive your new GEC knife and don't like it because the pull isn't to your liking, or the blade isn't centered, or the bolsters are scuffed, or the blade has an itsy-bitsy scratch on it, or the covers are faded where they meet the bolsters, or there's a bit of blade rub on a stockman pattern, Return it to the dealer. That's what dealers are there for - sell their products and then take em all back because the complainers are unhappy because they expect perfection from an assembly line manufacturer. Well, we're just not going to get perfection from a mass manufacture of knives such as GEC. Pretty good, very good, an occasional excellent knife, but not a perfect knife. So just save those shrieks of grief to yourselves when your new knife isn't perfect so as to save enough energy to Return it to the dealer.
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You're not entirely wrong, but you're sounding kinda snarky. I don't lump cosmetic imperfections in with basic mechanical functioning of a knife. If I get a knife that I can't open, I might ask around to find out if the issue I'm having is typical for that particular run of knives, or if my one sample is defective. This could let me know if I want to ask for an exchange or a refund when I Return it to the dealer.
 
r8shell said:
If I get a knife that I can't open, I might ask around to find out if the issue I'm having is typical for that particular run of knives, or if my one sample is defective. This could let me know if I want to ask for an exchange or a refund when I Return it to the dealer.
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Or if I want to skip that model entirely and save my money for something more suited to my preferences, thus saving the dealer from having to deal with a return or refund, or me from having to resell the knife myself. I, for one, hope that folks don't stop sharing their experiences, and even their complaints, here since that gives others an idea of what to expect.
 
knifeswapper said:
I am going to put all the overhead expenses on your tab when the rash of silly returns start (continue) :confused:
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Ok Mike. I'll pay you 1¢ a return for the first ten returns.;) It's the silly returns I was getting at and you included (continue) so of course you are experiencing silly returns probably on a regular basis.
 
r8shell said:
You're not entirely wrong, but you're sounding kinda snarky. I don't lump cosmetic imperfections in with basic mechanical functioning of a knife. If I get a knife that I can't open, I might ask around to find out if the issue I'm having is typical for that particular run of knives, or if my one sample is defective. This could let me know if I want to ask for an exchange or a refund when I Return it to the dealer.
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Wasn't trying to be snarky - more "tongue in cheek". Mike got it.
 
If there is someone that has not read anything about the Bullnose before purchasing - And the seller doesn't mention anything about the spring strength - It would be a bit of a surprise.
 
knifeswapper said:
If there is someone that has not read anything about the Bullnose before purchasing - And the seller doesn't mention anything about the spring strength - It would be a bit of a surprise.
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And yet, the astonishment about unmanageable pull strength of the #71 Bull Nose continues.
 
knifeswapper said:
If there is someone that has not read anything about the Bullnose before purchasing - And the seller doesn't mention anything about the spring strength - It would be a bit of a surprise.
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ah, come on, you can afford a few dozen refunds...
 
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