Lets talk GEC!

rdave said:
ah, come on, you can afford a few dozen refunds...
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Cost, shipping, finance charge = $50.52, Sell price = $57.26. My time = $0, Resources = $0

By golly, you are right! Send'em on back if the documented pull was correct; here, I'll send you a return label :D

(Although the numbers are not funny, I am being humorous for those funny impaired)
 
knifeswapper said:
Cost, shipping, finance charge = $50.52, Sell price = $57.26. My time = $0, Resources = $0

By golly, you are right! Send'em on back if the documented pull was correct; here, I'll send you a return label :D

(Although the numbers are not funny, I am being humorous for those funny impaired)
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I am tongue in cheek as Ed would say! #71s are cool. And, who returns a $50 knife anyway....
 
knifeswapper said:
Cost, shipping, finance charge = $50.52, Sell price = $57.26. My time = $0, Resources = $0

By golly, you are right! Send'em on back if the documented pull was correct; here, I'll send you a return label :D

(Although the numbers are not funny, I am being humorous for those funny impaired)
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Humor = priceless
 
A return label and you lose money. That blows.
Maybe send out Bullnoses with a multivitamin included. For healthy fingernails.
 
rdave said:
I am tongue in cheek as Ed would say! #71s are cool. And, who returns a $50 knife anyway....
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More than you might think. Just go back through this thread to see how many people have either returned knives or sold them through the Exchange. And the ones selling through the exchange somehow fail to mention just how strong the pull of the knife they're selling is.

Of course I wouldn't expect you to go back through the thread but there are examples - just saying.
 
Honestly I guess I should have done a little more research before purchasing but my 1st GEC #14 was so perfect i didn't expect anything different on the bull nose. Plus for $55 bucks I am not going to send back or expect too much. It does say it is a budget model in the description, made for farm use so that should have been a clue. I am actually happy with the knife just was surprised by the strong pull, I definalty have to get my nail in the nick can't just grab the blade. I imagine it will her better as it breaks in. I appreciate all the comment, at least I know now its common to the model and mine is fine.
 
On a separate note I just traded with a fellow Idahoan and member here (Copperberry) for a #43 Oregon trapper and a 2 blade #14 and both are perfect so the bull nose is defiantly an outlier. Both the #43 and 2 blade #14 are beautiful knives I am really starting to like these traditional slip joints great little blades.
 
I'm gonna snag so many 2 blade 14s from the upcoming run, it's gonna be ridiculous. The little clip blade on that frame should really hit a sweet spot for me.

I probably need another 2 blade from the previous run as well...:)
 
Camillus said:
Pull weight doesn’t vary according to your strength—!!! Just like distance doesn’t change depending on your eyesight and volume doesn’t change depending on your hearing.

The sooner we get a proper rating scale for the force needed to open a knife the sooner we will dispell these myths.
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The pull itself doesn't, but the perception of the pull does.

If you took someone that weighs 250 lbs and is in good physical shape due lifting heavy weights at a gym regularly and a 90lb skinny bean pole of a person and had them each carry a 60lb bag of concrete mortar mix, it would be 60 lbs regardless of who lifts it, but it would "feel heavier" to the 90b person...

This perception of weight is also the perception of pull that makes it vary by person, as much as by pattern and sometimes individual knives.
 
Muslin Micarta #71 Survival Tips

Try a guitar pick pinch instead of a finger tip pinch :)

Mine went from a hard gritty 8 to a solid 6 by flushing the joint with mineral oil and working the blade for 30 to 40 minutes.

You can also use painters tape on the blade to maintain your grip while working the pivot.

Bullnose #71's are very good knives & worth the extra effort :D
 
I don't play guitar, and I don't carry around 60lb. bags of mortar!!:mad:
Please explain the guitar pick method to me!!!o_O
Where's my force gauge when I need it???:eek:
:p:D
Mike, if you come over and open this dang knife for me, I'll save you the money by not returning it!!:cool:
 
Modoc ED said:
More than you might think. Just go back through this thread to see how many people have either returned knives or sold them through the Exchange. And the ones selling through the exchange somehow fail to mention just how strong the pull of the knife they're selling is.

Of course I wouldn't expect you to go back through the thread but there are examples - just saying.
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I'm sure some of that is true. I was initially disappointed in the 2 I bought but was better after reading knifeswapper and your encouragement. So for some resolution, I gave one to my grandson and am planning on taking a week to resume breaking in the other using BF experts advice of course...(a bit more tongue in cheek here)...
 
waynorth said:
I don't play guitar, and I don't carry around 60lb. bags of mortar!!:mad:
Please explain the guitar pick method to me!!!o_O
Where's my force gauge when I need it???:eek:
:p:D
Mike, if you come over and open this dang knife for me, I'll save you the money by not returning it!!:cool:
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Sure Charlie,

Curl your index finger beside the nail nick (your nail touching the liner/handle material and the side of your index finger touching the blade).

Then bring your thumb over and pinch the blade (it will give your more finger contact with the blade).

You can also use your wrist (instead of your arm) once you *guitar pinch* the blade.

This will isolate the opening movement to one area and will be much easier/natural when you open your knife.

Hope this helps :)
 
I will offer one other tip, that works for me. Instead of pulling on the blade, grip the blade and use the hand holding the knife to pull the handle away from the blade. Hope that makes sense, it’s hard to explain the difference.
 
LastRodeo said:
I will offer one other tip, that works for me. Instead of pulling on the blade, grip the blade and use the hand holding the knife to pull the handle away from the blade. Hope that makes sense, it’s hard to explain the difference.
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Good point. That works just as well :)

As I get older, I'm more more aware of cutting myself with a pocket knife ;)
 
Personally I prefer a strong pull, never had a GEC that was too stiff. I do have an S&M that is a bear trap. The spring is very strong, and the blade was so off centre that is pressed against the liner preventing closing, and opening until I reground it. The biggest issue was the geometry between the tang and the spring. I rounded it off a touch and it’s useable now. I can’t imagine GEC would ever let a disaster like that one out the door.
 
DelOro said:
Sure Charlie,

Curl your index finger beside the nail nick (your nail touching the liner/handle material and the side of your index finger touching the blade).

Then bring your thumb over and pinch the blade (it will give your more finger contact with the blade).

You can also use your wrist (instead of your arm) once you *guitar pinch* the blade.

This will isolate the opening movement to one area and will be much easier/natural when you open your knife.

Hope this helps :)
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Need a little more detail, please! which hand? which side of the nail nick etc.
 
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