liner lock vs frame lock vs lock back BHQ video

That was an interesting video. As was mentioned, you have to be careful not to put to much weight on the results of this short test. But, it was clear that the lockbacks are a pretty strong design. Also, as someone who edc's a spyderco delica I was happy to see spyderco have a good showing.
 
timbo813 said:
That was an interesting video. As was mentioned, you have to be careful not to put to much weight on the results of this short test. But, it was clear that the lockbacks are a pretty strong design. Also, as someone who edc's a spyderco delica I was happy to see spyderco have a good showing.
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This ^^^ 100%

I pair a delica with a bigger fixed blade for woods work, and spyderco's strong performance in the comparison, and the strength of the lock backs in this comparison make me really pleased. And surprised.
 
I suppose it should have been expected that somebody would turn this silly test into reasons to not buy or use certain mechanisms.

Guys, we're talking about testing weight at the BACK of the blade. When are people putting that much weight on the spine of a folder in real use?! Our slip joint and SAK loving brothers must be laughing themselves silly.
 
RBid said:
I suppose it should have been expected that somebody would turn this silly test into reasons to not buy or use certain mechanisms.

Guys, we're talking about testing weight at the BACK of the blade. When are people putting that much weight on the spine of a folder in real use?! Our slip joint and SAK loving brothers must be laughing themselves silly.
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It's not about pigeonholing a certain lock design, it's about looking at which lock designs do the best at exactly what they're designed for: KEEPING THE KNIFE OPEN. When might one need the lock to perform properly? Batoning (Not ideal, I know. But the forces there are DEFINITELY comparable.), skinning, using the spine as a striker for a ferro rod, etc... I'd like to see one of my SAKs / slip joints throw decent sparks without cutting my fingers off. Tell me why a knife that tests well here is WORSE because of it? Why do you need to pooh-pooh these tests? Nobody has said this is an authoritative test, or that it pushed them to only buy one design. Did you even read the posts?
 
It seems pretty unfair to test a Tri-Ad system with the other lockbacks. That voyager could probably hold twice the weight that the average lockback could take...
 
Redmasta said:
The lock back test was flawed, as someone already mentioned the wire was wrapped over the knife in front of the lock back mechanism essentially pinning the lock closed against the blade and helping it stay solid. In real world use you don't have 350 pounds holding the lock down, which is why I have had them fail and close on me before because the lock pops opens.
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I would suggest a further review of the video, frame by frame, of where the loop actually started to slip from on the Gator. If you own a Gator, you will realize that the loop was over the lockbar pivot, which will have little effect on the lockbar itself.
 
nick21 said:
It seems pretty unfair to test a Tri-Ad system with the other lockbacks. That voyager could probably hold twice the weight that the average lockback could take...
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actually..... if you search more videos youll find one that shows Andrew Demko himself showing you how much a linerless cold steel triad will actually hold in the same test. He also shows what his customs will hold.
 
A.P.F. said:
I would suggest a further review of the video, frame by frame, of where the loop actually started to slip from on the Gator. If you own a Gator, you will realize that the loop was over the lockbar pivot, which will have little effect on the lockbar itself.
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I looked again, still have the same opinion. They wire was in front of the pivot on all of the lock backs helping keep the lock closed. Even on the Gator though it was closer to the pivot, you can see the impression right in front of the pivot in the rubber handle when the wire starts to slip off. Maybe that's why it failed first as the wire was closer to the pivot than the other lock backs.

Again not a scientific test obviously it was just for fun. I think the way Benchmade tests their locks in their youtube videos by clamping the handle and having a machine press on the back of the blade would give more accurate results.
 
I'm kind of middle ground. I know from experience the Tenacious and most CRKT liners are bottom of the barrel strength wise.

If I took the video to heart, it would back up my opinion that the slippery and easily environmentally effected metal surface of frame locks is not worth the trade off in strength over a grippier synthetic gripped liner lock knife.
 
I cant believe that BladeHQ didnt have a forklift they could have used so they didnt have to constantly mess with the hand cart.

If youre buying knives based on this or similar videos, and not what you actually prefer using, you are doing it wrong. Get a fixed blade if you are planning scaling the side of a mountain using your knives as hand holds.
 
sogflash said:
I find these lock strength test to be very useless. when would you need a knife that can take a hundreds of pound of pressure in the opposite direction of normal cutting? When stabbing a bunch of them into a tree or wall to make a ladder?

My lord, what are you guys using your knives for?

Am I taking it to serious that others take locks far to serious?
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[video=youtube;LYQRxArvYmQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYQRxArvYmQ[/video]
Ask me that again after you cut your tendon off
 
D-R0CK said:
It's not about pigeonholing a certain lock design, it's about looking at which lock designs do the best at exactly what they're designed for: KEEPING THE KNIFE OPEN. When might one need the lock to perform properly? Batoning (Not ideal, I know. But the forces there are DEFINITELY comparable.), skinning, using the spine as a striker for a ferro rod, etc... I'd like to see one of my SAKs / slip joints throw decent sparks without cutting my fingers off. Tell me why a knife that tests well here is WORSE because of it? Why do you need to pooh-pooh these tests? Nobody has said this is an authoritative test, or that it pushed them to only buy one design. Did you even read the posts?
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I did read the posts, which is precisely why I said what I did. You are completely disconnected from my point. I have no problem with the tests for the purpose of entertainment, BUT:

1. Sample size is too small to yield real takeaways

2. Sample selection is silly. Gerber? Low price point, in general?

3. I pooh-poohed the silly takeaways.

4. All of these locks hold the knife open safely against realistic loads.


If you are ANYWHERE where the possibility of being lost in the woods is present, you should ensure in advance that you will NOT have to baton or strike flint with a folder. Period. I have an ESEE 3 in my EDC bag. It's hardly difficult to keep a fixed blade on hand.

This is from a guy who freely admits to loving overbuilt folders.
 
I love BladeHQ but that video is entertaining, arbitrary, unscientific and meaningless.
 
Scurvy092 said:
And what are you doing in the normal course of knife work that would make you whack it on the spine?
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Exactly, unless you stab things regularly. I learned the hard way stabbing at something with a lock back which closed and cut open my knuckle and split my tendon. I got lucky could have been worse if the knife was sharp :D I was a kid and learned right away to never stab or put pressure on the back of a folder blade.

Even now with with the much stronger locks I carry like the Axis or Compression I will only stab into things that are squishy where I have no chance of the blade closing on me.
 
D-R0CK said:
It's not about pigeonholing a certain lock design, it's about looking at which lock designs do the best at exactly what they're designed for: KEEPING THE KNIFE OPEN. When might one need the lock to perform properly? Batoning (Not ideal, I know. But the forces there are DEFINITELY comparable.), skinning, using the spine as a striker for a ferro rod, etc... I'd like to see one of my SAKs / slip joints throw decent sparks without cutting my fingers off. Tell me why a knife that tests well here is WORSE because of it? Why do you need to pooh-pooh these tests? Nobody has said this is an authoritative test, or that it pushed them to only buy one design. Did you even read the posts?
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Actually, I'm pretty sure you don't want to keep the lock engaged while batoning. Something about damaging the lock mechanism.
Also, with my slipjoint, I'm sure I could get decent sparks off the awl, or I'd just keep the knife closed to throw sparks like I normally do.
I don't see why you'd use a folder for most of those activities anyways.
 
When looking at the failure mode of the high quality liner lock and frame lock knives in this test, it is instructive to realize that the mechanism is DESIGNED to fail open. That is, it is designed to fail in such a manner as the blade remains locked in the open position even though the mechanism and knife are damaged beyond proper use. That is in contrast to a knife that fails closed. i.e., when the lock is defeated the blade closes. The moral of this should be that well designed liner and frame locks can take an incredible amount of abuse and remain safe. Note that all three of the locking mechanisms had the same top end point. All three categories contained knives that managed to withstand the max weight in the test.
 
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