Looking for Fairbanks hammer operating manual...

Opps sorry Mike! Been trying to catch up on shop work and forgot. I'll get some better pictures of the belt tomorrow before I start forging.

Farmer, I'll get a good picture of my hammer so we can have a model E also. :D

Hey Dan,

If you are still out there, I'd like to keep working with you on the belt type you have. Seems like from your description of how it picks up the hammer, it might solve a lot of my problems with lack of idler movement range, belt stretch, belt grab on motor pulley and drive pulley.

Mike
 
Opps sorry Mike! Been trying to catch up on shop work and forgot. I'll get some better pictures of the belt tomorrow before I start forging.

Farmer, I'll get a good picture of my hammer so we can have a model E also. :D

Absolutely no problem Dan... I was just hoping you had the time at all...

I'm looking forward to seeing a full frontal of your big 'ol girl...

Mike
 
Dan, thanks for volunteering to do some pictures. I am hopeful that these pictures can become a source of information for all of us. I am getting the feeling that our hammers are so old, and with the manufacturers changing, that there are subtle and maybe important differences between models and years of manufacture (adjustable guide as an example). Once we have some pictures up, they will always be there for everyone. If anyone hears of another Fairbanks, please ask for pictures. They can always send them to one of us by email to post, if they are unable to post them. I would be happy to send by email the pictures I have to anyone to use as well.
 
Robert,

You've got so many really good pictures of your hammer, I was wondering, if you got some of them to Sid, he would see some motor alternatives none of us are coming up with.

Are you having to get another motor or is the one on the machine going to work?

I can't remember if I posted this or not, but I'm not finding it easily... "Bear" is a strong believer in always having a jackshaft and stepping down to needed "bpm". I don't know the idea of it well enough to understand, one way or the other.

Mike
 
Dan, thanks for volunteering to do some pictures. I am hopeful that these pictures can become a source of information for all of us. I am getting the feeling that our hammers are so old, and with the manufacturers changing, that there are subtle and maybe important differences between models and years of manufacture (adjustable guide as an example). Once we have some pictures up, they will always be there for everyone. If anyone hears of another Fairbanks, please ask for pictures. They can always send them to one of us by email to post, if they are unable to post them. I would be happy to send by email the pictures I have to anyone to use as well.

A lot of forums dump pictures in old/older posts to save space. I don't know if/when BF does that.

Mike
 
I went back and looked at the pictures Mike posted of Roger Smith's hammer on post #75 of this thread. As Mike thought at the time, the hammer is a "C" model. You can see in one picture that the hammer is a "C" model hammer by the casting on the side of the frame.

Those pictures are useful for a couple of reasons. They show his drive belt setup all the way from the machine to the main drive shaft in his shop. They also show his interesting treadle setup that Mike commented about. It appears that Roger made a treadle setup to either work from the front or possibly the right side of the machine. He also elevated his hammer up a few inches on a lumber base. It appears that his treadle was designed to lower the treadle bar back down close to floor level by extending out from the side of the hammer and angling down to clear the base.

All of the communications with you guys have really made me think again about the issue of converting my hammer to a rear motor mount. Maybe there is a better way. I will stare at the hammer some more this week and make a decision.
 
Mike, I don't know about my motor at this point. So you think there may be a reason to use a jack shaft, even if you can get a straight shot from the motor? It seems that there should be a better way to control motor speed than adding a jack shaft if it is not otherwise needed.
 
Robert, doesn't have to be attached to the hammer, just so it's close by and sturdy. My thoughts of a plate were to illustrate the idea of a consolidated package. If you're going to cut the floor anyway, might as well sink a motor post :-)
My original plans were to do that because I just didn't know any better. The more ho,ework I did , more options revealed themselves. Our local iron club has a machine shop where I got lots of great lineshaft ideas.
 
Bruce, I'm not planning on cutting the floor in this new shop. The slab appears to be quite thick. I suppose I could weld a flange on a piece of pipe and bolt the flange to the slab with the pipe extending up several feet above the hammer with a plate on it for the motor mount. I like the idea of attaching the thing to the hammer just so there isn't any problem with things working out of alignment. What do you think of the idea of a jackshaft being used, even though it is not necessary to route the belt?
 
It worked out for mine, motor to jackshaft, JS to hammer pulley. Ratio was close enuff for guvmint work. Think I ended up within 15-20 bpm of the specs. Made it possible to use a standard 1750 rpom motor.
 
Mike, I don't know about my motor at this point. So you think there may be a reason to use a jack shaft, even if you can get a straight shot from the motor? It seems that there should be a better way to control motor speed than adding a jack shaft if it is not otherwise needed.

"Bear" is adamant the use of a jackshaft, set up as small pulley on motor, big pulley on motor end of jackshaft, smaller pulley on flat belt end of jackshaft to big drive pulley is the way around his feeling a given HP-rating motor from today does not have the boot of the same HP-rating motor from the past. I've heard arguments to the contrary and I simply don't know anything about it... and/or, it allows use of smaller than spec hp motor... but I wouldn't go there.

I do know a given diameter of driving-flat-belt pulley will have more or less square inches of belt-grabbing surface area as the diameter of of the pulley is more or less.

Your hammer specs. 13" drive pulley and 350 bpm. With a 3HP 900rpm motor (catalog spec), you need a 5" driving-flat-belt pulley (and that pulley needs to be crowned... reguardless of having side flanges disallowing the belt to come off... in my opinion).

Our motor is 1140rpm (96# Baldor... heavy, like Bruce said). With a 4" driving-flat-belt pulley, going to 12" drive pulley, the bpm is 380 (catalog specs. 375 with 900rpm and 5" driving-flat-belt pulley on 50#). Close enough, except for the loss of 25% of a 4" pulley's ability to pick up the hammer by grabbing the belt compared to the 5" pulley.

Whether "Bear" is right on modern versus old motor hp-output-torque-??? or not. These hammers use a contact-area to "sticktion" ratio to run... and to clutch through bpm at a constantly variable rate. I don't know as a fact, but it seems a person ought to be able to run any of one-beat through max number of beats per minute. In theory, that is... there are a lot of variables that can get introduced... I like the idea of eliminating possible variables from the start as opposed to finding work arounds later.

I'm not sure the precision apparent in the hammer design and construction necessarily is a function requirement of the driving system. The pictures of Roger Smith's overhead jackshaft drive on his "C"... the first two pictures. Rogers method of mounting jackshaft, etc., has to be solid enough, but there is no way it is an immovable object and it relates to the hammer only though belt contact. Yeah, there are alignment realities, but they are satisfied. I don't know Roger Smith except through his many pictures of many projects on Forge Magic and though a few small comments in conversations with Bruce. If I had to say, one way or the other with no fiddling inbetween, I'd say Roger Smith IS NOT going to have any kind of half-assed anything... it's going to work right or it's going to get made to work right.

You got pictures of your motor/jackshaft and mounting, Bruce? Can you clutch through any number of bpm from 1 to max, pretty much at will?

Last thing... overhead has distinct advantages. The belt can be shorter and the treadle actuated idler can have a longer arc of movement. The shorter the belt, the less treadle movement for bpm number from less. The more idler-movement-range available, the less minor variations in clutching components effect hammer function. Primary effect of both is less belt stretch and better ability to accomodate belt stretch.

Mike

Oh... and please, Bruce, DON'T tell your story of Fairbanks hammers and straight leather belts!!! It makes me cry!
 
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Robert,

Maybe you've got these numbers and I'm simply not aware of it... O.D. min/max of shaft across bushing area and I.D. min/max of bushing across length. To me, the numbers would help understanding what I had to do with shaft and bushings.

Mike
 
Mike, my bushings and the shaft are scoured pretty badly. It is not just a case of uniform wear. Measurements of wear wouldn't reflect that damage. I am kind of in a tough position. If I hone the bushings to get rid of the damage, I would need an oversized shaft which would then result in the shaft being too big for the crank and the drive pulley. I am not seeing much of a way out of this pickle but a new shaft and new bushings.

I am going to get the specs off my motor and post them for you guys to tell me the size of pulleys and belts I need. I get the concept of what you are saying, but I have no experience like you.
 
My motor is a 3hp Leeson. It is a 1740 rpm motor. On the jackshaft, the pulley to the motor is 9 and 1/4 inches on the O.D., and the pulley for the drive belt is 3 and 3/8 inches and is not crowned. The pulley for the drive belt is about 3 and 1/2 inches wide. How do the numbers work for this setup on a Model B?
 
Mike is the whgiz on those numbers Robert.
I'll look and see if I have a photo of my motor/jackshadft connection. If not, I fet uyp there and get one tomorrow.
 
Bruce, you already sent me a couple of photos of your belt and jackshaft connection. Thanks. I was looking at my hammer today. I can't see sticking the motor up there in space 10 feet off the ground over the hammer on a beam or something. It sounds alright just talking about it, but standing by the hammer and picturing it the whole thing was just look pretty odd. I need to figure out another way. Jackshaft up by the drive pulley and motor down low on the side appears the best right now. I can add some weight to the other side, if I need it to balance. However, I have to admit that I am not sure how the idler would really work with such a setup, and the belt from the motor to the jackshaft would be a little long.
 
My motor is a 3hp Leeson. It is a 1740 rpm motor. On the jackshaft, the pulley to the motor is 9 and 1/4 inches on the O.D., and the pulley for the drive belt is 3 and 3/8 inches and is not crowned. The pulley for the drive belt is about 3 and 1/2 inches wide. How do the numbers work for this setup on a Model B?

Need one more pulley diameter... the one on the motor. Figuring this out is easy enough... Motor rpm x (motor pulley dia. / motor jackshaft pulley dia.) = jackshaft rpm, jackshaft rpm x (js to hammer pulley dia. / hammer drive pulley dia.) = hammer beats-per-minute.

Working back from the 13" drive pulley at a wanted 350 bpm... 13" dp to 3.375" js flat belt pulley dia. is 13 / 3.375 = 3.4666, that times 350 bpm is 1213 js rpm. With the other js pulley at 9.25" dia., the motor pulley would need to be near 6 7/16" (6.4484" by the numbers). Got that by dividing 1213rpm by 1740rpm = 0.6971, and that times 9.25" js to motor pulley dia.

Your motor/jackshaft pictures don't look like the motor pulley is that big... looks more like the js flat belt pulley or smaller. If the motor pulley is 3" at 1740rpm, running to a 9.25" js pulley it's 3 / 9.25 = 0.3243 x 1740 = 564.3243 Js rpm. 3.375" js flat belt to 13" dp is 3.375 / 13 = 0.2596 x 564.3243 = 146.5 bpm... less than 1/2 of rated 350 bpm.

The possibility of slip is something I don't know about. I've heard folks say it is inherent in the design... that the rated bpm is never achieved. "Bear" says that but I've heard it in other places, too. I look at our hammer with it's 375 bpm and think about sticking a piece in the dies and getting 6.25 blows per second... I don't know how we keep the 'ol girl in the chicken coop.

In the end, our switching to a jackshaft set up, instead of direct, would allow us to fuss with the motor and motor-js pulley sizes to de-tune if the actual bpm are more than can be used.

"Bear" uses double "V" belt pulleys on motor and motor-js pulley set. Says it's necessary to keep "V" belts from slipping. I've read flat belts are way better at not slipping than "V" belts.

Mike
 
Bruce, you already sent me a couple of photos of your belt and jackshaft connection. Thanks. I was looking at my hammer today. I can't see sticking the motor up there in space 10 feet off the ground over the hammer on a beam or something. It sounds alright just talking about it, but standing by the hammer and picturing it the whole thing was just look pretty odd. I need to figure out another way. Jackshaft up by the drive pulley and motor down low on the side appears the best right now. I can add some weight to the other side, if I need it to balance. However, I have to admit that I am not sure how the idler would really work with such a setup, and the belt from the motor to the jackshaft would be a little long.

Every time I look at your and Dan's belt, idler, linkage set up I can't figure out how they can possibly turn the hammer. The idler movement tightening the belt decreases the belt-on-pulley friction surface area... where the original design has the idler increasing those contact areas. The fact that Dan's hammer is working away and I assume yours did in it's previous life, argues against my disbelief.

I'd be tending to build a cantilever system, up and over from the back to mount the jack shaft on. Figure out how to use the space the supporting frame creates for storage or ??? Seems to me any kind of side mount puts motor and Js in the way of using the hammer from that side and requires some higher level of goat-screw to get the linkage remodeled to fit.

You mention oddness of the way a ceiling mount would look. Are you putting a vent through the ceiling for the forge(s)? I assume the forge and hammer will be near each other, but maybe not.

Mike

Forgot twice, but remembered once... your flat belt pulley on the jackshaft... you mentioned it has no crown. Did you put a straightedge on it? a crown on a short pulley would not necessarily jump out at you. Flat belt pulley crown dimensions are most often 1/8" in 12". A pulley 4" long would be 0.026" higher in the center than the ends, 2" away.
 
Geez, my spelling leaves something to be desired. Get that way when I'm tired.
At any rate, you are going to have to tie that machine to the floor in some manner. It's the matter of the damper working that bothers me, if ya hang it off the side
If you have the overhead room, why not a trellis type affair made of structural steel, also anchored to the floor?
 
Regarding an overhead mount. OK, now picture standing in a room with about an 11 foot ceiling with your hammer and build some type of steel arch or beam up beside or behind your hammer and stick the motor on top of it approximately 10 feet in the air (7 feet for hammer height and 3 feet for belt length). It would look more like some kind of monument to the motor gods than a motor mount! Something in the roof rafters looks OK, because all that you see is a belt coming down from the roof rafters. Fellas, I stood at the feet of the motor god monument, and I was in awe of the power of the mighty motor god, but I didn't like it as a hammer mount. Come on guys, we can figure something out!

Mike, I measured the flatness of the belt pulley with a set of calipers - completely flat for all I could tell.

I will measure the little motor pulley, but it is very small - as small as they could make it I believe. Mike, thanks for the explanation of the calculations for beats per minute. That is some real information that anyone who reads our little chat can use forever.

Bruce, I was looking at pictures of every hammer I could find on the internet last night. Some (all?) Little Giants had the motor hung off the side up top. I need to find a picture of a larger LG to look at. Somehow they stopped the wobble.

Mike, I am not quite getting your concern about the idler setup and the belt contact surface, but it seems like an important point. How should the idler be applying pressure to the belt to increase the contact with the drive pulley rather than decrease it? Just because a hammer can function with a messed up setup doesn't mean it is functioning as well as it was designed to do. The guy who sold my hammer to me said it was in good working order, but it had one pin broken completely into, all of the pin holes were worn out and way oversized, etc, etc. A hammer hitting is not necessarily a hammer hitting well.
 
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