Looking to replace me Emersons. Strider? ZT?

nattyboh said:
Appreciate it.

Im just now looking for a good deal on an 0550. Ive never used a knife with a smooth clip side scale. Is it less grippy than one of my Emersons? OR will that be pretty null as an issue ( talking about the 0550 )
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It will be less grippy, but you can always take the clip off and bend it so it has more retention. I did that on mine because I like having a lot of retention on the pocket clips :thumbup: I have a gen. 2 and the lockup is solid at 50% and it has no wiggle in any direction but it is so smooth the blade falls free when it is held edge side down and the lock is disengaged :thumbup: I have a kryptoglow scale on mine that I picked up here on the forum. He doesn't make scales anymore but you can still find them around. Rival, BellaBlades, and ThePreacher all make great scales as well

 
How can you tell? The lockbar recess thats it now on the outside?
Do you think there will be any issues with it later that I would need the warranty? Are they easily remedied by fellow forum guys?

Also, stone washing doesnt weaken the blade right?
 
nattyboh said:
How can you tell? Do you think there will be any issues with it later that I would need the warranty? Are they easily remedied by fellow forum guys?

Also, stone washing doesnt weaken the blade right?
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Generation 2 due to lock-bar cut-out being on the outside.
Stone washing won't weaken the blade; as long as the bearing surfaces (where the washers contact) aren't worn down too much---which they probably won't be---there's no issue.
As long as it's actually in the condition being advertised, you shouldn't have any issues which would require the warranty. :)

The scale alone goes for $65, so yes, as long as it is as advertised, it's a pretty good deal.
 
nattyboh said:
How can you tell? Do you think there will be any issues with it later that I would need the warranty? Are they easily remedied by fellow forum guys?

Also, stone washing doesnt weaken the blade right?
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The gen. 2s had the deep carry pocket clip and the lock bar cut out on the outside of the frame. If it was not a factory second and all that was done to it, the warranty wouldn't apply anyway. It looks like he did a good job. Stone washing doesn't weaken the blade, the acid would. But he was able to sharpen it and the lockup looks to be about 50% so I would say it was done right. It seems like a very good deal IMO
 
Well he told me that the process dulled the blade and it would need to be sharpened. Now whether that means the material is shot or maybe it just needs that.. a sharpening.
 
nattyboh said:
Well he told me that the process dulled the blade and it would need to be sharpened. Now whether that means the material is shot or maybe it just needs that.. a sharpening.
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Acid would still be a surface thing.
If the steel isn't all eaten away (which by the pictures it isn't), then it's just fine.
 
nattyboh said:
Well he told me that the process dulled the blade and it would need to be sharpened. Now whether that means the material is shot or maybe it just needs that.. a sharpening.
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Stone washing dulls blades pretty good, but if he already sharpened it after words, it probably just needs a touch up
 
I got it for 90 shipped!

Is there anyway I can black wash the blade? I LOVE that finish, but cant being myself to buy it from blade HQ for 220.
 
nattyboh said:
I got it for 90 shipped!

Is there anyway I can black wash the blade? I LOVE that finish, but cant being myself to buy it from blade HQ for 220.
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Congrats! You got that thing for a steal. When you acid wash a blade it darkens it and then the stone wash gives it the effect of black washing but it won't be as strong.
 
Yeah I think I want to use some ferric chloride... That wont weaken the blade where it will break right?

Im reading on it now.
 
nattyboh said:
Yeah I think I want to use some ferric chloride... That wont weaken the blade where it will break right?

Im reading on it now.
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I'm not sure, I'm not an expert on what acids to use. But I do know that you have to put nail polish on the lock face and the areas where the bushings are and possibly where the detent ball slides. You WILL have to sharpen it after the acid tho. Acid eats away at the edge slightly and dulls the blade.
 
Yeah I figured I would have to sharpen it again, but it has to be sharpened anyway now...

Any idea what kind of edge I should put on it using my wicked edge?
 
I would personally put 20 degrees per side, because it would cut nicely and hold its edge very well. You could probably go lower and make it more of a slicer but I would stick with 20 since you are gonna be using it harder
 
Thanks man. Should I do a micro bevel? Isnt that where someone would say do 20 and then hit with an 18?

I also bought some Fluoro grease for 10 bucks... it was the Finish Line stuff.
 
Benchmade Barrage line. Assist can be disabled should you desire. Axis lock. Quality USA built. Watch some of their Axis Lock torture test videos. Those locks are tough. And the assist is just pretty cool.

Or make the jump up to a Hinderer. They are spendy, but sure are sweet with fantastic ergo's. Took me awhile to decide to pop for one, but I have not looked back. And the resale on a Hinderer will allow you to recoup most, if not all, your expenditure.
 
nattyboh said:
Thanks man. Should I do a micro bevel? Isnt that where someone would say do 20 and then hit with an 18?

I also bought some Fluoro grease for 10 bucks... it was the Finish Line stuff.
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I believe that is what a micro bevel is, I don't know much about that tho. Something to also look into is some Nano Oil. Its probably the best oil available but it is pretty expensive
 
Damn lol so the Fluoro isnt that great or not as good as nano oil? I can always buy the Nano, but now Im stuck with Fluoro grease lol
 
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