stabman
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2007
- Messages
- 21,327
Look what I found after etching.. It revealed a serial. I thought Blems had XXXX where the serials were?
Nope.
The XXXX are higher up on the blade, near the model number.
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Look what I found after etching.. It revealed a serial. I thought Blems had XXXX where the serials were?
As long as you don't touch the blade you'll be ok. It might mess with the heat treat of the liner but you also have a g10 scale and the liner will still be hard. The lock bar isn't heat treated as far as I know, so you won't hurt it any by doing that. I've bronzed the hardware on my Kershaw Shallot and my friends Kershaw Leek. They both turned out nice and it didn't mess with the heat treat on the screws.That wont take away the heat treat? what about where the detent is?
No problem :thumbup:Looks nice. thanks.
You need much higher heat to mess with the heat treat. Especially with the thick stock of the 0550.That wont take away the heat treat? what about where the detent is?
I have the factory edge on mine, just touched up. It is about 20 per side and it is receipt paper cutting sharp. I have 20 per side on all my knives actually, and they all are receipt paper cutting sharp. I really don't know what advice to give you.Question Stickman or anyone else...
I did the 20deg per side as Spyder said to do ( not holding him responsible, so dont take it that way ) but this thing doesnt feel sharp. It shaves my arm hair decently, but doesnt shave paper ( like running the blade on the edge of a piece of paper )... Is this because of the 20deg per side? Im going to assume its going to have a way longer lasting edge ( not as find like a box cutter razor blade that dulls pretty fast ), right?
edited: lolt he knife wouldnt open a bag of chips. Im going to have to kick in a notch I think
You might want to ever so slightly bend the lock bar in (take it apart so you can). It should take away the up and down play. If you want to re-do the anodizing, you can bead blast the TI and it will take the anodizing off. I read somewhere about how to take the anodizing off of TI but I can't remember how or where I read itAlso I noticed since doing the heating, the lockbar has more movement now... Would it be advisable to get it carbidized? ( not sure if spelling is right )
Its a blem, so they sadly won't do anything with it other then clean it and sharpen it. You could get it carbidized but that will just be more money on top. You could sell it for more then you paid for it. I would personally try bending the lock bar over and see if that takes the wiggle away, but if you aren't comfortable doing it, then don't. If you want to sell it tho, you could put on the factory scale and save the Hinderer scale for your next one :thumbup:Do you think it was from the flame treatment? I emailed KAI to see if they would install the new insert in the lockbar.
Im at the point here where Id sell it, as that movement will drive me crazy everytime I use it...
Now the bar goes about 70% over too...
I'm not sure, I don't think so, but it doesn't hurt to ask. They wouldn't add it to that lock bar, they would have to give you a whole new lock side because it is machined for that insert.They wouldnt add the new insert if I were to pay?