M-INFI question.

Jerry has described himself as being hand-sharpening-handicapped, apperently he's really bad at it. Part of the benefit of the asymmetrical edge is that it takes very little skill to maintain. In the feild, if you use a burnishing steel like the one I showed pictured above you won't actually take any metal off at all, you'll just realign it (pushing on the small flat beveled side). From there, a small piece of mouse pad and some sand paper is all you need for the convex side. Once aligned, the sandpaper is really just there to knock off the wire edge formed by the burnishing, just a few light strokes on 320-600 grit sand paper at a low angle (knife almost flat to the sand paper) and you'll be good.

The crock stick, or ceramic stick can also be used, but isn't always necessary. The burnishing steel is often all you need to get INFI back to sharpness because of it's maleability.
http://thebestthings.com/newtools/scraper_burnishers.htm
 
Earlier in my life I would have worried about the sharpening issue but I've come to understand that anything is possible with patience and time. Thanx the advice guys!
 
taiChiFighter said:
I got a small DMT diamond stone sharpening kit for the field. This works essentially along the same lines as the Edge Pro. Would I be better off with a Spyderco system?
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Stick with what you have and get used to them ... ability with one system ought to be learned before starting on another ...

Do some Mora's or other good cheap knives first ... stuff you can make mistakes with and not regret ...
 
gk4ever2 said:
Basic 7's & 9's from Blade 2012 are INFI.
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Hi Gene,

Gotta ask, how are you sure of that? I asked Garth at the show and he wasnt completely certain. Coudnt it be some handle-less blanks were found? Though the original AK's are long gone, I got one with A2 at the last knob creek, couldnt it be the same with these? Oh and on the basics. They are all ASYM edged so thats pretty odd.

Also, do you know of more then 1 basic 7 that was at blade? There were 4 9's, but I thought only 1 7, could be wrong.

Thanks Sir
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LVC makes a good point about the use of a burnishing steel ... I have had my Basic 9 a lot of years with a lot of use ... I think I have sharpened it properly "once" ... maybe twice ... using a ceramic stick or burnishing steel and a little stropping on the convex side seems to restore the edge quickly and without need for a full blown sharpening ... little top ups seem to work really well with this knife ...
 
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dericdesmond said:
Hi Gene,

Gotta ask, how are you sure of that? I asked Garth at the show and he wasnt completely certain. Coudnt it be some handle-less blanks were found? Though the original AK's are long gone, I got one with A2 at the last knob creek, couldnt it be the same with these? Oh and on the basics. They are all ASYM edged so thats pretty odd.

Also, do you know of more then 1 basic 7 that was at blade? There were 4 9's, but I thought only 1 7, could be wrong.

Thanks Sir
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Regarding my statement "Basic 7's & 9's from Blade 2012 are INFI", I was assuming since the B4 & B6 are INFI, that so are the sage B7's & B9's, but I had not thought about the possibility of leftover M-INFI blanks, so I am not absolutely sure. Perhaps Jerry could answer the question. The choil on the sage B7 looks like the slightly larger ones found on the smooth coated B7's. There are a limited number of ASYM B11's, so did Jerry do some for the sage B7's and B9's??

I do not know how many B7's were sold at the 2012 Blade Show.

Based on my experience and that of others, I do not think a difference would be noticed between INFI and M-INFI in actual real-world use; maybe in a controlled test a difference would be seen.

Thanks for asking!

Gene
 
As far as I know jerry never produced any INFI basic 3, 5, 7 or 9's for sale. I beleive whats shown in the sage/tan set ups are blanks that were re-handled and re-coated. Jerry very rarely goes back and reproduces any given line of knives exactly for re-release. The basic series that have been produced in INFI have all been recent re-interpretations, the basic 6 having a drop point compared to the euro 6's clip, the basic 4, 6, 10 and 11 all being different lengths/styles than before.
 
Yeah, the newer ones were different lengths ... but I am hoping when the Basic 8 comes out Jerry offers a few with ASM edges.

The Basic 8 interests me the most out of the new range ...
 
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gk4ever2 said:
Regarding my statement "Basic 7's & 9's from Blade 2012 are INFI", I was assuming since the B4 & B6 are INFI, that so are the sage B7's & B9's, but I had not thought about the possibility of leftover M-INFI blanks, so I am not absolutely sure. Perhaps Jerry could answer the question. The choil on the sage B7 looks like the slightly larger ones found on the smooth coated B7's. There are a limited number of ASYM B11's, so did Jerry do some for the sage B7's and B9's??

I do not know how many B7's were sold at the 2012 Blade Show.

Based on my experience and that of others, I do not think a difference would be noticed between INFI and M-INFI in actual real-world use; maybe in a controlled test a difference would be seen.

Thanks for asking!

Gene
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Thanks for taking the time to explain Sir, cheers!
Last Visible Canary said:
As far as I know jerry never produced any INFI basic 3, 5, 7 or 9's for sale. I beleive whats shown in the sage/tan set ups are blanks that were re-handled and re-coated. Jerry very rarely goes back and reproduces any given line of knives exactly for re-release. The basic series that have been produced in INFI have all been recent re-interpretations, the basic 6 having a drop point compared to the euro 6's clip, the basic 4, 6, 10 and 11 all being different lengths/styles than before.
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Heard from another hog recently that towards the end of the 9, a few were made in INFI, then again I think he was drinkin :confused:Time for me to do some searchin. Thanks for the input Sir.
 
Either Infi or M-Infi I am still very happy with my Basic 9 from the show. I am no machine so wouldn't notice it anyway but it sure would be nice to know if it was!
I almost traded my B9 with cash for a NMFBM but think I will have to keep it afte seing all the reviews and there seems to be only a handful of tans out there. I think???
Still plan on getting a NMFBM but the Basic 4 seemsnto be distracting me constantly!
 
AngryDaddyBird, were you the guy that scored 1 of the first 2 set out, had the large choil? Had some words with another hog for trying to swoop down on your pork?
 
No but sounds pretty serious! That might have been "rainwalker" who your talking about. He bought one and is making pants for mine
 
Hey dudes,
I know it's hard to believe (from my posts) but I actually try and do searches to get answers to questions already asked. I find the thread/forum search engine a real PITA because if I put 2 words in it pulls everything with either of the words. I can't seem to get it to do a boolean "and" search where only posts with both words come up. Can anyone tell me if there's a trick to this?:confused:
 
When searching for more than one word topics, use a "+" instead of a space between the words, and that should search for the topics that you are looking for
 
OK, I understand that the convex grind is widely recognized as being a superior edge. It's also my understanding that creating and sharpening this type of edge is not simple. The asymmetrical variation that Busse uses on some of it's knives seems to make very good sense for hard field use by the average guy (since the "flat" side is relatively easy to sharpen). It's the full convex edges that I'm concerned about. Would it be accurate to say that, if you are not advanced in sharpening techniques you won't be able to properly sharpen this type of edge? In other words are Busse convex edges not for beginners?
 
If the knife is satin, all you have to do is this:
1-buy/use a mousepad, place on flat surface
2-place sand paper grit of choice (180 for really rough, 220 for medium, 600 for medium-fine, 1500 for polish touch ups)
3-run a permanent marker over the entire edge
4-place the knifes main grind flat on the mousepad.
5-draw the knife so that the edge trails behind the spine. repeat, tilting the knife up slightly until you see the permanent marker disappear from the very cutting edge
6-maintain that angle as best as you can, and repeat the motion until the entire edge looks like it's evently sanded. Move up a grit, repeat with permanent marker.

By the time your up to 1500 grit or higher you'll have a shaving edge as long as your removing all of the permanent marker with each grit increase. You don't have to be perfect like on a flat hand stone - the mousepad indenting inward allows you some leaway with angle, the harder you push the more round the convex will be, the lighter you push the flatter it will be.

I managed to do kind of sharpening on accident while trying to sand the flats of a mora 112 mod after having ground it on a rough sanding belt. I didn't even mean to sharpen the edge, I just wanted the main grind to look nicer, yet I ended up with a shaving sharp edge because the mouse pad curved up to meet it each time I switched grits. If I can do it by accident, it's gaurenteed to be repeatable by anyone regardless of their sharpening experience.

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