M2 TRYOUT!

cool idear but curious.......are these hacksaw blades full m2? reason I ask is I've been on a factory tour back in the 90s where they made Sawzall metal blades. which were 2 rolls/ strips of different steels welded/ bonded together. one strip was m2, other strip was a cheap steel. I asked why they did that and it came down to good enough and lower cost as the answer. curious if the hacksaw blades are made the same way? thanks.....
 
jbmonkey said:
cool idear but curious.......are these hacksaw blades full m2? reason I ask is I've been on a factory tour back in the 90s where they made Sawzall metal blades. which were 2 rolls/ strips of different steels welded/ bonded together. one strip was m2, other strip was a cheap steel. I asked why they did that and it came down to good enough and lower cost as the answer. curious if the hacksaw blades are made the same way? thanks.....
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I'll give her a good going over. I'm not going to cut nails into or anything like that, but I'll cut up some cardboard and slice up a stick of firewood out of our woodpile. Then I'll sharpen her up in my Wicked Edge and see how she sharpens.
 
000Robert said:
I'll give her a good going over. I'm not going to cut nails into or anything like that, but I'll cut up some cardboard and slice up a stick of firewood out of our woodpile. Then I'll sharpen her up in my Wicked Edge and see how she sharpens.
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It will cut card board ALL DAY....... Me personally, it's the best edge holding I've seen. (but I don't have any delta 3v)

I'm super curious of Your opinion, because I know what kind of knives you own.... :P
 
Last night I ground some more on the give away knife from the steel you sent me Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer . You can still see some scratches from the coarser belt. The amount of time I spent grinding this one knife is equal to the total time I spent grinding all four small AEB-L blades. Therefore I can assure you ( jbmonkey jbmonkey ) that my opinion is firmly in the camp that these saw blades are a) M2 through and through, and b) a nightmare to grind.

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Also, Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer you see how the blade looks like it has an ever so slight recurve... turns out you can indeed burn the steel if you grind it thin enough. Just where there would be a sharpening choil, the steel heated up suddenly and changed to blue almost in an instant due to a slightly too slow pass on the 220 grit belt. So I gave it a flex test, and the edge there chipped right off. A very small section of it, which was easy enough to repair into the slightly recurved profile you see above, and subsequent flex testing there yielded no further damage. So yes, it is a high speed steel, but it will burn if that fact is taken for granted, which I stopped doing after that experience.
 
David Mary said:
Last night I ground some more on the give away knife from the steel you sent me Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer . You can still see some scratches from the coarser belt. The amount of time I spent grinding this one knife is equal to the total time I spent grinding all four small AEB-L blades. Therefore I can assure you ( jbmonkey jbmonkey ) that my opinion is firmly in the camp that these saw blades are a) M2 through and through, and b) a nightmare to grind.

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Hahha 🤣🤣🤣

That steel has a certain "Look" I knew it was it while watching your progress pics.
I think the large scratches are beautiful, especially once you know the performance behind it.

I kinda like grinding the steel..... when i Botch something up while freehanding it......and I look at what I did, and the belt barely scratched it.... lol

It's Very Hard!!!

That knife looks Amazing..... whoever gets It.... It will become their Favorite DM knife.
 
David Mary said:
Also, Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer you see how the blade looks like it has an ever so slight recurve... turns out you can indeed burn the steel if you grind it thin enough. Just where there would be a sharpening choil, the steel heated up suddenly and changed to blue almost in an instant due to a slightly too slow pass on the 220 grit belt. So I gave it a flex test, and the edge there chipped right off. A very small section of it, which was easy enough to repair into the slightly recurved profile you see above, and subsequent flex testing there yielded no further damage. So yes, it is a high speed steel, but it will burn if that fact is taken for granted, which I stopped doing after that experience.
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haha... You must of been Really leaning on it.

What I think is hilarious is grinding those blades all day...... or longer.
and then go onto grinding an easy steel to grind.

Wow, what a difference.
 
jbmonkey said:
cool idear but curious.......are these hacksaw blades full m2? reason I ask is I've been on a factory tour back in the 90s where they made Sawzall metal blades. which were 2 rolls/ strips of different steels welded/ bonded together. one strip was m2, other strip was a cheap steel. I asked why they did that and it came down to good enough and lower cost as the answer. curious if the hacksaw blades are made the same way? thanks.....
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Most are bi-metal blades for cost reasons, like you said. (only the area where the teeth are HSS)
even those are still capable of making Good knives as the rest of the blade is usually still hardenable, but not just of the same capabilities.

These aren't like that. These scream Cut Me!!!
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Most are bi-metal blades for cost reasons, like you said. (only the area where the teeth are HSS)
even those are still capable of making Good knives as the rest of the blade is usually still hardenable, but not just of the same capabilities.

These aren't like that. These scream Cut Me!!!
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thanks for info. look awesome....I expect to hear great things besides whats already been said.....
 
Crag the Brewer said:
It will cut card board ALL DAY....... Me personally, it's the best edge holding I've seen. (but I don't have any delta 3v)

I'm super curious of Your opinion, because I know what kind of knives you own.... :p
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Delta 3V has made a believer out of me several times. A few weeks ago I was with my son in his shop, and I turned quick, forgetting that I was close to his welder while holding my Carothers knife in my hand, and smacked the edge against the metal handle of my sons welding machine. My heart stopped as I scraped off the black paint of the handle from my blade. I just knew that I chipped the edge. But when I looked the bevels over, I could not see any damage to the edge at all - it looked perfect.
Comparing M2 to D3V is a tall order!
 
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Robert do you have calipers to measure thickness behind the edge? I think it will be useful to know the difference between the two whenever you do your testing.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
These aren't like that. These scream Cut Me!!!
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I'd just change it to "if you think you can!" Haha
 
Excellent!
 
I really don't pay much attention to the width behind the edge. I probably will after I sharpen my knives a bunch of times. The only Carothers knife that I actually use for cutting stuff is my DEK1. The rest just languish in their boxes.
 
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