M4 Ti Millie Alert!!!

Went to the source and e-mailed Roger with the question about the blade finish. It is supposed to be a satin blade finish but he'll double check the details and post them in a couple days.
 
JNewell said:
Here's a pic of an M4 Mule that was uncoated but also (and this is the important point IMO) uncared for. The thing about coating is that it obviously can't protect the only small portion of the blade that you REALLY care about: the edge.

rustm4back.jpg
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Yea maybe I'm just crazy but I care about more than just the edge. In fact the edge is the one thing I'm not that worried about. Any surface rust can easily be removed by either one: using it or two: sharpening it.

Whereas a rust covered blade makes a $200 knife look like a $10 knife and it would take a total blade refinishing to change that. If this blade does come with a satin finish I think a forced patina may be a good idea. Some people love the look, others hate it, but it should help protect against the surface rust in that picture.
 
tjsulli790 said:
Yea maybe I'm just crazy but I care about more than just the edge. In fact the edge is the one thing I'm not that worried about. Any surface rust can easily be removed by either one: using it or two: sharpening it.

Whereas a rust covered blade makes a $200 knife look like a $10 knife and it would take a total blade refinishing to change that. If this blade does come with a satin finish I think a forced patina may be a good idea. Some people love the look, others hate it, but it should help protect against the surface rust in that picture.
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No, I don't think you're crazy. Coated/uncoated is something that people have different ideas about. I don't think BM has ever shipped an M2 or M4 blade that wasn't coated. Spyderco obviously felt differently.

I will disagree a little on the edge. Best case is you have to use some stones to deal with surface rust. Worst case is you get some serious pitting and you have to really spend some time taking the edge down and maybe reprofiling it. If you're in the field, you may not have the gear you need to do that.
 
When it comes right down to it, coated or uncoated will not be a deal breaker for me with this knife. The design, materials, Spyderco's engineering and quality manufacturing will make this an awesome EDC regardless of blade coatings.
 
I would think keeping it clean (i.e wipe it down after use that may cause rust) and keeping some oil on that blade would protect it right? I've never owned M4, from what i've heard it rusts easily though, would that be enough?
 
peanuts said:
I would think keeping it clean (i.e wipe it down after use that may cause rust) and keeping some oil on that blade would protect it right? I've never owned M4, from what i've heard it rusts easily though, would that be enough?
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just take care of it like if it was 1095 and it should be fine.:thumbup:

and if it starts to rusts just clean it with a little flitz and you're set.
 
Only if you catch it early... I've had knives that were left dirty after use and after a week or so - Boom! - you have pitting. No amount of Flitz will remove that.

jiggyfly16 said:
just take care of it like if it was 1095 and it should be fine.:thumbup:

and if it starts to rusts just clean it with a little flitz and you're set.
Click to expand...
 
How did that Mule look after being wipped down?
Any photos of it today?
Looks like it was left out in the rain........
Just curious
 
JNewell said:
Here's a pic of an M4 Mule that was uncoated but also (and this is the important point IMO) uncared for. The thing about coating is that it obviously can't protect the only small portion of the blade that you REALLY care about: the edge.

rustm4back.jpg
Click to expand...

True.

More importantly though, the pivot area, coated blade or not, is not easily observed or cleaned. Once the coating wears off in this area, and it will, the direct contact will surely produce a prime area for corrosion.

I won't even get into the lockbar area.

Rust prone steel in a folder? No thanks.

But then, I use my knives outside in the elements a lot.
Most of these M4 Millies will sit in safes though, warm and dry, so it probably won't matter to 495 of the buyers.
 
Ive worn through the coating on my benchmade 760 in quite a few places and use it outside in FL all the time, its not too much of an issue and M4 kind of turns black before it really rusts so just either use your knife all the time, like me, or keep it in a safe. Im getting this thing to use it def and depending on how I like both (BM 760 and this spyder) it may kick the 760 out of my pocket for EDC. This will be my first spyderco as well :) gettin in the game when its lookin good.
-Barry-
 
My experience with firearms that have similar coatings has been that even after the coating appears to have worn away (down to bright metal), there is still very good corrosion protection. There must be some of the coating still down in the "pores" in the surface of the metal.

However, if I lived in Alaska and used a knife a lot in the rain, I'd probably be looking for stainless, too.
 
I've had a Benchmade 710HS with an M2 blade for more than 5 years. I've carried and used it in all kinds of conditions and it's never shown more than some patina on the edge. I've taken it apart multiple times and there's never been a speck of rust around the pivot. The M2 performs beautifully and is worth the small trouble of keeping it wiped down.

Unless M4 is considerably more prone to rust, I'm not worried. I've owned, carried and used carbon steel knives since I got my first one in 1968 at the age of 10. It's never been a problem for me.

Fortunately, there are plenty of stainless knives, including Millies, for those who prefer it.

I'm very excited about this offering and I think Roger did a great job selecting the features. :thumbup: May 2010 can't come soon enough for me!
 
I have folders in 1095, Case CV, 52100, damascus, 1075, Hitachi blue steel, and A2. See the concern on my face? :p
 
I'm with you there hardheart. I have the Bradley M4 and the RIL Millie M4 on pre order: I'll put up with a bit of extra oiling for possibly the best performing, most balanced steel (in terms of sharpness, edge retention, holding an acute edge, and toughness/resistance to chipping) that I have used yet. My M4 Mule has been a pretty overwhelmingly good performing knife and I really hope Spyderco keeps the same heat treat they used for the Mule, as 62.5RC seems perfect for it. My Krein Custom in M4 is around the same hardness and performs every bit as well (actually better since it has a .007" edge at 7 degrees per side).

Mike
 
I am a little concerned about the rusting factor. Probably not the best knife to take camping, but for a regularily cared for folder, I think it would be fine. Not my kind of edc though. I take great care of my knives and I find 1095 rusts a little too easy--I basically have to keep a film of oil on it or it rusts. Might be where I live, but in anycase Ill pass on this one:)
 
My M4 Mule is my and my wife's most used kitchen knife. That means it gets used and WET every day. There is no rust on it.

I wipe it clean after use and once a week or so put a light coat of cooking oil on it - done ~;-)

8235461-md.jpg


M4 is a GREAT steel!
 
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I'd rather the blade isn't coated. If it's not, i'm going to pull the user one apart and force a patina on the whole blade.
 
I'm hoping for coated as well. I really don't want to do any maintenance whatsoever.
 
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