"Made in Sheffield" 1830-1930, A golden age ?

Praise the Heavens, Roland!:D

My dear wife picked this knife up for me on my birthday in an antique mall type store in Seattle, WA, for surprisingly little money.
Somewhat ordinary as Jim would say, but I wonder if its manufacturing date would allow it to fit in this thread?
Marked J. BEAL & SONS SHEFFIELD on the four top blades, it is a bit over 4 1/8" long, with brass liners and ivory handles.
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Answer me this Charlie (my joints ARE oiled!): is that an original stubby slotted driver, or broken and reground? Is there a name for this pattern?
 
Good job on the joints!! :thumbup:
I think the screwdriver is original length, Jeff. It comes close to the button hook as it opens.
I think generally this is a utility knife, although I've seen them called alternately; camper's, automobile, sportsman's, scout, picnic and yada yada knives.:D
Maybe some of our better informed colleagues can pin it down!?

(I've always wanted a yada yada!:D:D)
 
Duncan,

Sorry to "rain on your parade" but that knife looks like a VERY ordinary sleeveboard whittler to me. Nothing to get all excited about I'm afraid.

Furthermore, the fact that the tang stamps do not include the word "ENGLAND," does NOT mean pre 1891. This was only a requirement if the knife was exported! Knives are still being produced in Sheffield today without the England stamping. Anyone could have bought the knife in the UK and carried it to your country?

The question that Roland asks is also very valid.

Jim Taylor.
Hi Jim...Please dont apologise at all, thank you for your input,I agree that the knife isnt anything jump around about.... I just havent had a pocket knife that has has a ""wedge" like that before-usually there would be just the two springs running paralell to each other, I just personally have seen very little of this wedge design?


Hi Roland!...You preach well :)
I do indeed have a LG4...of which my good friend has borrowed-so I must get that back.
With Ivory Celluloid...the grain is very one directional...and even ( is this right?)..i have seen a lot of both Ivory & Celluloid..and I would bet that this is Ivory..but hey...I could be mistaken....as in these scales there does seem to be a grain for sure...but it has a very wavery flow ( I hope that sounds right :o )
 
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Don't worry Jim! I think we all agree we'll defend to death your right to speak your mind!:D
Hoping of course it's mutual!!:D:D
 
Perhaps I should just stay quiet?

Jim Taylor.
Jim, please explain the difference of Ivory Celluloid to Ivory, as I have knives that have both.
The Ivory Celluloid has a very staright grain-or more so pattern running straight through, and with natural Ivory the "grain" ( if showing ) is a lot more flowing so to speak?..I will try to show better photo's of the scales in the weekend when I have a bit more time to take some photos, untill then-if anyone could help?
Duncan
 
Perhaps I should just stay quiet?

Jim Taylor.

Jim,

Please do not. This is one of my favorite threads. To have you and Mick here is fantastic. The knowledge you two and others share with us is priceless and it would be a shame if it was squelched. Just being able to see some of the knives and interact with you is cherished by many. See you next June!

Gus
 
Duncan and Gus,

Thank you both for your comments.

We Sheffielder's would always hold an ivory knife to our cheek to confirm that it WAS ivory. Genuine ivory is ALWAYS colder than other materials. Let me hasten to add that this means of identification requires quite a few years of experience and is NOT easily learned. More basically, with MANY years experience, ivory becomes easily recognisable!

If I had that Lockwood and I wanted to be sure, I would use the "hot needle" test. Place a needle tip in a lighter (or similar) flame, until it glows red. Stick this into an unobtrusive area of the handle, If it penetrates and stinks the place up, IT'S PLASTIC! If it won't penetrate, IT ISN'T! I really can't see that you will damage the knife too much, Duncan.

Hope that the above is of some little help.

Jim Taylor.
 
Hi Charlie. Great knife. You have a wonderful wife to buy you this little treat. In response to your original question, I believe the presence of the button hook safely dates it to the time period of interest here.
 
There is another test I find quite reliable, and possibly less risky.
1)Close the knife to be tested and lay it on the table or desk.
2)Get a knife or razor that is VERY sharp.
3)Holding the sharp implement by its handle, put the edge on the ivory or imitation at a right angle like you are about to cut the knife on the table in half!
4)Holding the "ivory" knife at one end "scrape" toward the other end, keeping the sharp edge at a right angle, like you are removing paint. Very little pressure please.
5)If the knife "skates", it is ivory or bone!
6)If it "bites" and won't, or is hard, to move, it's imitation (plastic).
I have never damaged a handle this way, and have done it numerous times.
 
Hi Charlie. Great knife. You have a wonderful wife to buy you this little treat. In response to your original question, I believe the presence of the button hook safely dates it to the time period of interest here.

Thanks for the compliment and comment, Steve!
(I was obviously composing my previous post when you posted.)
 
Very similar pattern, Steve. Does it have a punch/awl on the back? And how long is it, please?
Mine is 4 1/16".
 
Nice knife Steve! More easily carried on a daily basis at 3.5 Inches.
By the way, what name comes to mind when you see the pattern of the Beal? Or have you seen it named in any catalogues?
 
The name that comes to mind is 'sportsman' although this was a very broad category.

This knife is the same length as your's but doesn't have an awl.

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:eek: smililng knife!!!....Nice knife!!




Hi Jim and Charlie...I will sit down this weekend, and have a good look at this knife, also....I will ( try ) take better photos so you can perhaps give a good evaluation of the scales...thank you to all, and I appreciate everyones help - greatly.
Duncan
 
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