Magnacut Thread - Photos and Advice

Case_D

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Oct 13, 2019
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5" Magnacut and Teak burl. Did a handsanded finish on this one. It wasn't bad until 600 grit. I did up to 180 grit on the grinder, 220 sandpaper, A30 Trizact, 400 sandpaper, 600 sandpaper. In comparison to the other grits, this was just eating through 600 grit SiC sandpaper. So I took it back down to 400 to finish. It's quite a nice satin. 600 seemed way more reflective/mirrory. Gonna try some diamond sandpaper soon
 
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Jul 2, 2018
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I've been doing quite a few blades in Magnacut and find it nice to work with. It's harder to finish than AEB-L, 440C and CPM 154 but easier than 10V, K390 etc.
Here are a few of my recent blades in Magnacut.


oOR0u6y.jpg



OPixjaf.jpg
Sir, both are awesome, but the second one is effing amazing
 

ChristoDart

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Jun 29, 2011
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I actually just got on this thread to ask the same question. I'm making some 4 inch blade skinners from .1 stock in the same Rc range. Before AEBL the talk of post heat treat grinding was almost non-existant. Now it seems to be the standard. I do grind my AEBL post heat as they are mostly pretty thin stock but is this automatic "grind post heat treat" due to the trend of actually necessary for Magnacut? Has anyone had serious issues with warping if you grind say 80% of the bevel and keep the edge at least dime thick? I will be sending mine to JT or Peter's if that makes a difference.
 

HSC ///

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Sure, the one I posted has a 5" blade hollow ground with a 10" wheel. The stock was 3/16" thick.
ChristoDart ChristoDart 3/16” is pretty thick and I think you will find the result quite different for a thin kitchen knife. I grind post heat treat because of this thinness of kitchen knives
 
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I plan to switch all my knives to Magnacut wen my S35VN and Nitro V blanks are gone. Peters told me to grind .10 S35VN to a .010 edge before heat treat and send them to them. They come back straight as an arrow. I am going to try the same with Nitro V but if they come back warped I will start grinding post heat treat.
 
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I'm working on 2 MagnaCut K-Tips that are from .105" stock, I full flat ground them till they were about .02 on the edge. I had Jarod heat treat them, came out 63RC. I've got one I'm almost done with, did an S grind on it using a 72" Radius platen. I'm done with the grinder work, doing the hand sanding on the one now. I have 2 more K-Tips to rough grind and a fun little mini cleaver (not a kitchen type cleaver) to rough grind for my daughter.
 

JRB Blades

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I'm gonna send some .125" framelock blades to Jarrod for heat treating. Definitely plan on profiling up to 120 grit, cut my stop pin tracks, and do some jumping on these. Two questions, I see some people are grinding bevels before heat treat and some are waiting till after heat treat. Is .125 thick enough where I could safely grind bevels before heat treating or just play it safe and wait till after? Second question, has anyone acid etched Magnacut in FC? Is it even possible? This will be my first foray into stainless, so sorry if that's a dumb question!
 
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Jul 19, 2019
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wow, didn't see this thread either. probably a better place then the other for my MagnaCut questions

making a Chef Knife for a relatives birthday. he's no pro chef or anything but does like cooking

cut the profile out. probably should have looked into it a bit further but ended up putting a little primary bevel on each side. left it a little thicker then I will ultimately have it at. around 1/16" at the edge. 0.100 stock. first real chef knife so a learning experience for me. hope I didn't jump the gun and make heat treatment more difficult or risk warping

I plan on having it hardened to 63/64hrc. how much harder is it to finish grinding after heat treatment once hard? I do most of my grinding with water so the risk of ruining the temper is low. I'd also like to try an S grind. would it be a bad idea to do this pre heat treat? sounds like many do all of their grinding after heat treatment but my grinder is not the best and doesn't do to well with harder materials so if possible I'd like to get as much done prior

thanks Jason
 

A.McPherson

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Do most of your grinding post HT, you'll end up with a much straighter blade.
Just do a pass, then dip. Pass, dip, etc, etc, ad nauseam.
 

FredyCro

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Jan 11, 2019
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Having a good 2x72 grinder and ceramic belts grinding between hardened and soft steel makes almost no difference at all to me. Belt life might be a thing if you are grinding large batches, but other then that - grind once, cry once.
 
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My first 2 MagnaCut knives were ground to about 85% then heat treated by Jarod, he got them to 63RC. Post heat treat they are grinding great. I've decided to heat treat the rest of my MagnaCut knives prior to grinding. 2 more K-Tips going, a mini chopper and 2 11" full tang knives. The K-Tips and mini chopper are .105, the 2 full tang knives are .125. Although I do have a good 2x72 3HP with VFD and use ceramic belts.
 
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