Larrin
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2004
- Messages
- 4,844
I don’t think I have seen any darkened knives.
Magnacut Thread - Photos and Advice
- Thread starter Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2013
- Messages
- 261
Since there has not been any consensus on whether acid etching will work on MagnaCut, I thought I would try it. I did read that it takes upwards of an hour to inch stainless, so I knew I had to be patient. I soaked them for about 45 to 50 minutes. At the end, it looked the shiny part of the blade was wrinkled. I took a Scotch-Brite pad gently scrubbed it, and the blade was almost black. I threw it in my tumbler to stonewash it. I kind of like the way it turned out.
any idea if it compromised the stainlessness of the steel?
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2013
- Messages
- 261
No idea yet. Maybe a better question for Dr. Larrin. I guess time will tell...
I have these 2 boning/processing knives coming up. 0.1" Magnacut at 63 RC. It is considerably more abrasion resistant than AEB-L at this hardness. Probably twice as hard to grind so far, post ht. Pre ht was super easy though, so if you want to do some significant stock removal, and you are confident in the ht, I say do it.
Joseph Bandeko
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Dec 9, 2021
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- 1,340
A couple of custom utility hunter's in Magnacut, rough ground and ready for heat treatment.
This is my first time working with it, and so far it's really nice to work with, easy to drill, easy to grind.
Can't wait to see how it works after HT!
This is my first time working with it, and so far it's really nice to work with, easy to drill, easy to grind.
Can't wait to see how it works after HT!
J. Hoffman
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2011
- Messages
- 1,679
My Louth model with a stonewash finish and maple burl.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2010
- Messages
- 338
Drop point hunter in Honduran rosewood burl and Magnacut. Hardened to 61.5-62. It takes a really nice edge but I'm still trying to figure out how to get a nice hand rubbed finish past 400 grit. I don't enjoy hand sanding this stuff.
- Joined
- May 12, 2016
- Messages
- 198
A K-Tip I made for my brother MagnaCut HRC63 S grind using a 72" radius platen. Just need to sharpen and finish it. Just got it glued up.
3m diamond film abrasive paper does the trick for finishing to higher grits
FredyCro
Basic Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2019
- Messages
- 1,407
I haven't had the chance to try out the paper yet, but I used diamond polishing pastes with matching grit sand paper and wd40 on Becut (which also doesn't like handsanding). This is a trick from Russian makers on YT and it works very well.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2010
- Messages
- 338
Hmm. I hadn't even considered this. I'll look into it. Thanks!
Finally got to play with the Magnacut!! Awesome edge retention, it seems to hold onto the "stupid sharp" edge a long time in the kitchen and cutting through cardboard and is still pretty easy to sharpen!
I got some nice belt finishes with Magnacut and leather/hard felt platens:
I was also able to electro etch jimping into Magnacut after it was 63 rockwell, too:
EDM stones make quick work of scratches to prep for a hand rub as well I learned!
I got some nice belt finishes with Magnacut and leather/hard felt platens:
I was also able to electro etch jimping into Magnacut after it was 63 rockwell, too:
EDM stones make quick work of scratches to prep for a hand rub as well I learned!
Several years ago I tried bead blasting S35VN with 80 grit glass beads. It was hardened to Rc60. The glass beads hardly touched the blade so I went to mixed glass beads and , I think, garnet which I got from Grainger. It took out most of the 240 grit scratches and looked pretty good. If I were going to sell the blades, I would go to 320 grit and make sure all the 240 grit scratches were gone. I suspect MagnaCut would be about the same.
I coated the sides of the blades with nail polish. I used my CriCut to cut out a vinyl stencil of capital "I" letters in a row and used that as my stencil. I cranked up my home made electro etcher to 15V DC and did several cycles of 15-30 seconds on the blade, removed for a few seconds and then back on the blade. After a minute of cycles or if I felt the blade getting warm, I would rinse the blade under cool running water, blot dry and continue for more cycles. I did this for 4 minutes, or maybe a bit longer? I found that the deep etching really gummed up my felt pad, so I either rinsed it off or replaced it during the process. On most of the blades, some of the side of the blade got etched despite the nail polish, so I think the etching liquid may have gotten under the nail polish. The orange handle one, I did the etching after rough grinding the blade to 120 so I could clean up any of the over etching. I went a bit deeper on that one and really like how it feels! I did some 62 HRC AEB-L, Nitro V and Magnacut. Some didn't do as well because the pad was gummed up, but the process works pretty well now that I know about the gummy pad! It may even work at lower voltages too.