Making a pouch sheath - Apprentice Thread.

Right, so with that in mind, what brand of tools should I look at? I know that Tandy makes a higher end product than the stuff I'm used to (Craft tool or something like that), but is there another manufacturer that I should look to?

What about Springfield?

Also, anyone have any experience with the really cheap brands? Estone, Funkymall, etc? They sell these on Amazon and I think the ones I looked at got decent reviews.
 
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Here's a picture of my tools that are used on every sheath/leather product that I make. All of them are not used every time, but one or more each time. They are a mix of Tandy and Osbourne, purchased from Tandy, EBay, and Osbourne direct. All of them have seen daily use for 12-15 years and still going strong.
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One-Razor knife from Tandy
Two-Adjustable groover from Tandy
Three-Over stitch wheel (with several wheels) from Tandy
Four-Skiver from Tandy
Five-Edge creaser made by Osbourne bought off EBay
Six-Diamond awl made by Osbourne and bought direct
Seven-Osbourne swing needles bought direct

The total cost on the Tandy items today probably runs around $50. The Osbourne tools around $100. You don't need the edge creaser, but I do recommend the diamond awl and needles. I've not found a need to use any high dollar tools to replace those Tandy items and they've lasted well. All my other tools such as strap end cutters, punches (round and oblong), rotary punch, etc. are Osbourne and pretty darn costly, but I make a living using them, so the cost evens out for me.
 
Thanks for that Rick. I wonder if I'm just flat out incorrect about the Tandy tools. Most of mine came in a kit, and I can't imagine that they're different than their regular tools, but I remember thinking that they weren't as good as I'd have liked for the money. I'll take another look. I may even have tools that aren't Tandy brand (don't think so, but it's been a while) so it's possible that I'm getting my wires crossed.

Regardless of perceived quality, they've never failed me in the very limited use I've put them to, and if they work for you daily, well that's enough endorsement for me. ;)

Edit- one thing I'm positive on though is that I bought a plastic lace cutter and that thing should never have made it to production. It's worse than useless as far as I can tell.
 
Hermann Oak generally runs about 8.00 a sqf. We get ours directly from H.O but we get 20 sides at a time. It's best just to get a shoulder to start with, practice pieces are great to have and usually once you finish the first your going to wish you had done about ten things different and want to make another anyway.

Quality tools are an investment. If your just wanting to make a sheath or two then just go with whatever is cheapest and will get you there, better tools and practice will yield better results.
 
Thanks Sky. That seems to be one of the issues I guess. The buy in to make a sheath or two is pretty high compared to just buying from an experienced maker. I suppose many things are like that though. Making knives is an absurd proposition depending on what you buy to do it, and how many you end up making.

I have a feeling that I'm really going to enjoy working with leather so it's probably best to buy decent stuff now. I'm gonna have to keep my eyes open for used stuff. :)
 
Strigamort said:
Thanks Sky. That seems to be one of the issues I guess. The buy in to make a sheath or two is pretty high compared to just buying from an experienced maker. I suppose many things are like that though. Making knives is an absurd proposition depending on what you buy to do it, and how many you end up making.

I have a feeling that I'm really going to enjoy working with leather so it's probably best to buy decent stuff now. I'm gonna have to keep my eyes open for used stuff. :)
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I think that it boils down to how much you want to learn how to do this craft, and how much do you look forward to carrying something that you made with your own hands? I saw/began reading this thread a while ago, before I even got into Fiddleback knives, and I thought that this would be something that I would definitely do. I did leather work and tooling as a teenager, and have not done any since. I am committed to doing this in the future, but until then I appreciate the near immediate satisfaction that I get with the sheaths made by some of the makers here. I am a traditionalist at heart, and I love the beauty, the feel and the smell of fine crafted leather products. To me, putting a Fiddleback in a Kydex sheath would be akin to blasphemy. And I own plenty of Kydex. Putting a Fiddleback in a finely tooled lather sheath of my own design and made with my own hands is approaching nirvana. As you correctly point out, the energy and the investment threshold compared to learning knife making is relatively miniscule. I own quite a few leather sheaths, some made by hand, some made by a factory some place. Once I start down this path, I am looking to replace all of them with one of my own creations. I look forward to the journey. I do not think I would trek this down this road if I only was intending to make two sheaths. I am waiting until I have the time, the place set up and the disposable income to buy the tools, supplies and raw materials. My father was a finish carpenter, and he influenced quite a bit how I look at tools. Using his philosophy, "always purchase the best tool available that you can afford." And he even stretched the "afford" portion of that quote from time to time (which explains a lot regarding my behavior from time to time, but that is another story). Sounds simple enough, but there are always tradeoffs in that simple philosophy that only you can decide.
 
Walt makes a great point. All of our time is worth something.

If I had one knife - and needed one sheath - I could call Rick, Sky, Heber, and other makers I know and be REALLY happy with the result.

If I had two... okay - still fine... after five or so - it may pay to make these sheaths.

I know in my case, even selling them at a much lower amount would have allowed me to make back my money from my initial investment. This was all I was originally looking for...



so long ago...


;)

TF
 
Good points. I think what motivates me as much as anything else is a desire to know for sure that I can, or cannot do something. Well, that, and to what degree I can do something of quality. My dad never taught me to buy quality tools. He was a mechanic his whole life and taught me either to make what I have work, make the tool out of one I already have, and as a last resort, borrow whatever is left (that came with its own teachings as well). It's often a hard headed way of doing things, and very often I wish I just had the right tool for the job, but it is what it is. :)

Question.

Aside from retention, is there any good reason to not use a line 20 (or 24, can't remember exactly which I have) in place of a Chicago screw? I may have some Chi screws, but I think I used them all. A few things came in from Amazon today and the boss took a look at what all I bought. Not looking good on ordering more stuff just now. :eek:
 
Just double checked and found a bag of the Chicago screws. The bright finish doesn't match the black D rings, but I can switch it out later.
 
Quick question about saddle soap. What is there a major difference between these two products (besides one being a bar and the other a paste) and is one better than the other? Would you use both, but for different purposes? I've seen the edge burnishing guide by Bob Park, and he recommends to use both...the glycerine bar one the leather and the paste soaked into a canvas cloth.

http://shop.fiebing.com/c/leather-boot-care_leather-care_saddle-soap-paste
http://shop.fiebing.com/c/leather-boot-care_leather-care_glycerine-saddle-soap-bar

Edit:
The MSDS for the paste lists:
Glycerol esters of C14-C18 fatty acids (10–30%)
Rosin acids (2.00–7.00%)
Sodium Carbonate (0.50 – 3.0%)
Sodium hydroxide (1.0–3.0%)
Water (55.0–85.52%)

Don't know if any of that stuff is better than 100% glycerine, but you are paying for a lot of water too.
 
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I am pretty sure all of them will work basically the same. I simply use the white paste as that is what I have a tin of and it goes a LONG way.

TF
 
I couldn't find anything fancy locally (should have tried the tack shops I guess) so ended up with a tin of Kiwi SS. The list of ingredients looked right so I bought it, but will probably look around more.

Speaking of tack shops, there are a ton of them around here. I need to get a shopping list together to see what they might have that I need. Anyone ever shop these places?
 
Anyone use a Barry King or one of Ron Tools round edge bevelers and know which size(s) would correspond with the Craftool sized 1-5 bevelers?

This thread is a great resource btw, thank you to all that contributed.
 
I am not sure of the size comparison, however if you are going to do alot of tooling then one can never have too many bevelers.
 
Bevelers... Well, since I talked about it earlier I figured I'd mention that I made one. It's not perfect and I intend to buy one, but I took an old cheap screwdriver and bent the tip slightly, then ground a V shaped cutting edge in the center. It cuts the corner off but I still need to sharpen it further and dial it in. Obviously it won't hold a very good edge, but I think it may be better than sanding. I'll take a pic and post it in a bit.

Edit-

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Almost forgot, credit where do, I found this design on YouTube.
 
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Barry King got back with me. He recommends his #2 for 9-11 oz leather and the #1 for 6-8 oz range.

Great looking tools, I'm going to give the #2 a shot to start off. Hopefully will have a finished product to contribute to the thread in the next few weeks.
 
Talfuchre said:
Strig,

You should just use a small needle file to sharpen that up.

TF
Click to expand...

Didn't even think of that. I have a brand new set of needle files that need some action too. Good thinkin.

Hey Tal, I have a bottle of Tandy Super Sheen. Have you ever used this product, and does it have any use for this project? I've used it as a resist, but I'm wondering if it might look good on the dyed edges after burnishing.
 
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It would SHINE those edges and protect them. It would have to be burnished and completed before then.

I find it a bit stiff for an outdoor purpose - but it works fine as a protectant.

TF
 
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