Making custom scales for a barlow

d.weglarz13 said:
So Glenn, just want to be sure. There is no reason to countersink the holes in the handle material then? The same way as you did with the liners?
I was wondering if perhaps that might help with the issue of cracking the cover material? Just very curious.

Thanks again for taking the time to teach, learning a lot!
dave
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It's more of a taper than a countersink. There may be certain cover material type more prone to chip out, that you may want to do a countersink on. By doing a countersink, your pin head spreads out more. I find big spread-out pins on cover materials to be a big turn off.
 
Okay, this is the last installment of this thread, the knife is finally done. The last steps are pretty straight forward, I didn't really take pics of all the final finishing.


The last main step is to knock down the pins on the bolsters. You can use a file for this. Take them down to as close to flush as you can. Then you can use your sandpaper in progressively finer grits to get things smoothed out on the bolsters and the rest of the knife. Unless you have a sander or buffer, there are no shortcuts on this step, but it is the most rewarding part of the process.






So here is the finished knife.










I had a lot of fun doing this, I hope everyone found it enjoyable. Please feel free to share any work of your own on this thread. I would love to see what everyone can do!


Thanks,
Glenn
 
That Wormgroove Bone is fab! I need a knife clad in it :D:thumbup: Thanks very much for this engrossing thread Glenn, most worthwhile.

Regards, Will
 
That turned out fabulous Glen, beautiful knife, and a considered and thoughtful restoration, as always :thumbup:
 
Thanks everyone for the comments and input on this. Now I have this knife and it's just sitting gathering dust, so why not do a GAW with all those that commented or were a part of this thread.

I went to my magical random number generator, and the winner of this knife is:




Supratentorial!


Jake, please contact me so I can send you this knife.

Glenn
 
glennbad said:
Thanks everyone for the comments and input on this. Now I have this knife and it's just sitting gathering dust, so why not do a GAW with all those that commented or were a part of this thread.

I went to my magical random number generator, and the winner of this knife is:




Supratentorial!


Jake, please contact me so I can send you this knife.

Glenn
Click to expand...

That's awesome! I love it!
 
Who? Me? Thank you, Glen!!! I appreciate all the work that you put into making this nice tutorial and it is very kind of you to do a give-a-way for the knife. It was unexpected! :)
 
Just got back and I went through all the photos. This will definitely be the most well documented knife that I own! ;) It turned out nicely and it means a lot to me to receive this gift. :) Thanks again for the knife as well as the very informative thread. :thumbup:
 
Thought I might bring this thread up again for newer members. It's a WIP tutorial I did on an Imperial barlow mod. I just had someone ask about replacing the handles on such a knife as a first try. I explained that with the Imperial being stamped shell construction (hollow bolsters), it might not be an ideal knife to try your first mod on.

Anyway, there are quite a few ways to get things done, so my way may not be the best way, but it works for me.

This may be a helpful WIP for those with some extra time on their hands that want to try a mod but are not sure how to get it going. My WIP starts on post 25. I had a lot of fun putting it together!

If you do decide to give it a try, please share your results!
 
glennbad glennbad

I know this is a necro post; however, coming from a background of rescaling straight razors, we typically use 2-4 oz ball pein hammers. What weight hammer do you use on knives?

Mel
 
Great tutorial Glenn. It looked like you used a tapered reamer for the pin holes in this tutorial and it also looked like 3/32" pins all around. Question: do you use a tapered reamer for pins smaller than 3/32", or do you just drill these oversize (say 5/64") to prevent cracking? I cannot find a tapered reamer small enough for the little pins.
 
I always drill the hole a little bigger for expansion of the pin. How big depends on the cover material. But never larger than the existing liner hole.
 
Rhinofly said:
Great tutorial Glenn. It looked like you used a tapered reamer for the pin holes in this tutorial and it also looked like 3/32" pins all around. Question: do you use a tapered reamer for pins smaller than 3/32", or do you just drill these oversize (say 5/64") to prevent cracking? I cannot find a tapered reamer small enough for the little pins.
Click to expand...

Pin size will vary depending on the knife. If you worked on nothing but GEC, you may get by with one or 2 sizes of pins. Other manufacturers were all over the place though. You can always buy a larger pin size and sand it down to the size you need.
 
I know this is an old thread…but I disassembled my GEC 88 to try a blade delete. Now my pins are too short. :(

Any idea what pin stock and material I need to get for the bolster through pins?
glennbad glennbad
 
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