MaMaMiA!!!!!!! NOW THATS A RUSTY SARSQUATCH

silverdragon33 said:
that would be all of the competition finish blades. jerry explained that the decarb is very prone to rusting
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That was my understanding too...but perksy saw rust under his finished blade. Presumably the blade was beadblasted before the coating was applied. So, what gives?

BTW, the more I see that Sarsquatch the more it grows on me,
 
It always amazes me (and frustrates :mad:) how often I see people saying INFI won't rust. Similarly and worse, I see a lot of posts of people saying SR-77 or SR-101 won't rust. :rolleyes:

They will ALL rust. Especially, SR-101. That doesn't make any of the steels bad. The reality is (at this time) non-stainless steels still have the best balance of "toughness", ease of sharpenability, and function over stainless steels. There are many high tech stainless steals out there right now that can get and hold a wicked edge. But, they are typically VERY hard to sharpen and are not as tough. Some stainless steels are still very good for smaller fixed blades or folders. But, I don't know of any stainless that is as tough as many non-stainless steels.

Maybe some day that will change. But, right now, corrosion is a compromise that comes with most of the best steels that offer extreme toughness.

INFI is much more resistant to rusts than most non-stainless steels. In some cases INFI actually can seem quite resistant to rust, but it will still rust. I have seen wet INFI start to turn orange to light brown from light moisture in about an hour.

SR-101 is actually more resistant to rust than 1095, O1, 5160 and a few others, but SR-101 will still rust quite readily if left damp for a reasonably short period of time.

I just think there needs to be more honesty and understanding about it and less posting false claims about it.

Get some Ren-Wax, Eezox, mineral oil or many of the other corrosive protectants on the market. Rust is a lot easier to prevent than repair.


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holeymoley said:
That was my understanding too...but perksy saw rust under his finished blade. Presumably the blade was beadblasted before the coating was applied. So, what gives?

BTW, the more I see that Sarsquatch the more it grows on me,
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It was left outside for 4 hours. Moisture obviously got trapped under the scales. A knife doesn't need to be submerged in water to get moisture trapped under the scales.

Condensation will develop anywhere air and vapor can penetrate. Condensation often develops in the evening and night hours. There are multiple factors to determine how humid it can get.

Metal is a condensation "MAGNET" - based on temperature changes.

Ever wonder why single pane glass windows get so wet?

Smooth, clean and bare INFI "WILL" rust.

Jerry mentioned the decarb. Maybe the decarb increases potential for rust - I don't know. If it this decarb stuff is corrosive, I don't understand why it would be left on knife steel. (????????????).

Doesn't change the FACT that even clean non-decarbed INFI will rust if subjected to moist environment.

I have sanded on INFI. Washed and "Immediately" dried and still seen rust develop. So, have many others.

Again, TOO much mis-information about INFI's resistance to corrosion.


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And yes, the SARSquatch is an awesome knife. :thumbup:

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Silas said:
:eek: :confused:

Did anyone ever figure out why the sar knives are rusting? I don't have any rust problems with any of my other nekkid Busses'.
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Toss any of your nekkid Busses in the grass over-night and check them in the morning.
 
Holy Crap !!!

I was just messing around and tried para cord wrap for a handle.. This is freaking comfortable and now has to be one of the lightest choppers from Busse... I need to take it out to the woods tomorrow and see if the corded handle is comfortable for actual hard chopping and other random bush craft activity. If I like it I may say screw getting handles put on and leave it the way it is... Damn this is light blade now...
 
If you like light handles, consider having some of the tang drilled out and put Bamboo scales on it.

Bamboo is VERY light-weight and reasonably tough. But, you could still use many other materials including still using micarta. You just have to do some proper estimating about skeletonizing the tang vs. weight of handle material.

The combination would feel nicer in the hand than paracord (IMO) and could be balanced as you see fit. But, this is coming from someone who doesn't care for paracord handle wraps. Some people like them. (??????).

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Ok............ Fine ;).... Just for you T..... It is sweet ...

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My red headed Edited for inappropriate forum language, infraction issued. along side the RUCK. pic taken right after handles removed.
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very cool brutha!


lets us know how it feels after a workout:)
 
DWRW said:
It was left outside for 4 hours. Moisture obviously got trapped under the scales. A knife doesn't need to be submerged in water to get moisture trapped under the scales.
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He didn't say under the scales...he said under the coating. That's the part I don't get. Don't tell me condensation gets between the coating and the blade. If that were true, why apply a coating at all?

I see the misunderstanding knifeguy, read post #8.
 
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holeymoley said:
He didn't say under the scales...he said under the coating. That's the part I don't get. Don't tell me condensation gets between the coating and the blade. If that were true, why apply a coating at all?

I see the misunderstanding knifeguy, read post #8.
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i had an FBM with parts of the coating loose and easily chipped off. heard of someone else as well and they said they found rust on those spots.
 
Uncle_Jarvis said:
Holy Crap !!!

I was just messing around and tried para cord wrap for a handle.. This is freaking comfortable and now has to be one of the lightest choppers from Busse... I need to take it out to the woods tomorrow and see if the corded handle is comfortable for actual hard chopping and other random bush craft activity. If I like it I may say screw getting handles put on and leave it the way it is... Damn this is light blade now...
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nice. i don't see it being very comfortable for chopping though. i put a japanese wrap on a batac and while i haven't tried it, but knowing how it feels, i wouldn't think it comfy for chopping. it does lighten the knife up nicely though, and feels great for light tasks.
 
The rust on my FBM was under the coating. It shouldn't have been there, the coating was applied to a rusty or dirty blade ( no big deal its stripped now). What I would like to know is why my Mud Razor will rust quite badly in certain spots, and this is after being cleaned and stored in a dry spot!

Also, I am not overly concerned with rust, as I much prefer carbon steels over stainless anyday, just a little confused on the rusting of these two knives.
 
Bill Siegle said:
For those that are worried about the fate of their CF Busses a healthy dose of a thin lube like Tri Flow or Break free will penetrate into those areas pretty well and fend off rust for a long time. Just hose the knife and handle down and let it soak in overnight then wipe off the excess. Reapply every now and then after exposure to water or high humidity :)
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Hey Bill, is that Tri flow or break free ok to use on a food prep knife?

Also, Uncle J, on a user with a wrapped handle, I like to run a few loops of cord before I wrap it, through the handle holes, so that it adds some width, and then braid the wrap. It gives more width and slightly more cushion. If you have a wrap style you like, you can also wet it with some thinned resin, and make it more durable.

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