MaMaMiA!!!!!!! NOW THATS A RUSTY SARSQUATCH

Lil' Foo said:
So... am I the only one that is concerned that rust developed under the scales??? :confused: :eek:

It may only be the decarb, but rust is rust... and it EATS metal.
How long before it eats thru the handle??? :confused:

I know Busse will fix any issues... but I'm sure a rusted tang failure would happen at an inopportune time.



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I think it would take a few hundred years of unattended rust to affect the structural integrity of a busse.
 
Lil' Foo said:
So... am I the only one that is concerned that rust developed under the scales??? :confused: :eek:

It may only be the decarb, but rust is rust... and it EATS metal.
How long before it eats thru the handle??? :confused:

I know Busse will fix any issues... but I'm sure a rusted tang failure would happen at an inopportune time.
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Yes, it's one of my concerns as well, especially in a snowy environment. Moisture getting under the scales is one problem, in my humble opinion, that "full, exposed tang" knives have.

Rust under the coating is nasty, too, because you can't see it, but at least stripping the coating is easy whereas removing and reattaching the handle scales is much more work.
 
yoda4561 said:
I think it would take a few hundred years of unattended rust to affect the structural integrity of a busse.
Click to expand...

You are correct my friend!!!

Before you all panic, ask yourself how many times has rust on INFI been mentioned on the forums as a really big problem over the past 11 years? Only a handful of all the INFI blades that we have made, have had an issue with rust under the coating, and we have NEVER had a blade returned for rust damage (that I'm aware of). . . .That's not even 1/10th of 1 percent of the total number of blades made!!!:thumbup:. . . . Yes, it can happen, but it's very rare.

The competition grade finish has been covered before. It is ugly, covered in decarb, pitted, and has a wide open grain structure. Therefore it will rust as easily as D-2 or 154CM will under the same conditions. In comparative rust tests, 154CM and D-2 pitted while the oxidation on INFI was only superficial.

Rust 'em up and bust 'em up. . . but more importantly. . . Let's DRINK!!!!! :thumbup:

Jerry :D
 
Thanks for the response Jerry :thumbup:

Can't wait to get out of work and beat up the Squach :)





Jerry Busse said:
You are correct my friend!!!

Before you all panic, ask yourself how many times has rust on INFI been mentioned on the forums as a really big problem over the past 11 years? Only a handful of all the INFI blades that we have made, have had an issue with rust under the coating, and we have NEVER had a blade returned for rust damage (that I'm aware of). . . .That's not even 1/10th of 1 percent of the total number of blades made!!!:thumbup:. . . . Yes, it can happen, but it's very rare.

The competition grade finish has been covered before. It is ugly, covered in decarb, pitted, and has a wide open grain structure. Therefore it will rust as easily as D-2 or 154CM will under the same conditions. In comparative rust tests, 154CM and D-2 pitted while the oxidation on INFI was only superficial.

Rust 'em up and bust 'em up. . . but more importantly. . . Let's DRINK!!!!! :thumbup:

Jerry :D
Click to expand...
 
Are you talking about if 154cm in the same condition of Comp. infi? Because 154 CM has 14% chromium content which makes it a stainless steel.



Jerry Busse said:
You are correct my friend!!!

Before you all panic, ask yourself how many times has rust on INFI been mentioned on the forums as a really big problem over the past 11 years? Only a handful of all the INFI blades that we have made, have had an issue with rust under the coating, and we have NEVER had a blade returned for rust damage (that I'm aware of). . . .That's not even 1/10th of 1 percent of the total number of blades made!!!:thumbup:. . . . Yes, it can happen, but it's very rare.

The competition grade finish has been covered before. It is ugly, covered in decarb, pitted, and has a wide open grain structure. Therefore it will rust as easily as D-2 or 154CM will under the same conditions. In comparative rust tests, 154CM and D-2 pitted while the oxidation on INFI was only superficial.

Rust 'em up and bust 'em up. . . but more importantly. . . Let's DRINK!!!!! :thumbup:

Jerry :D
Click to expand...
 
Jerry Busse said:
You are correct my friend!!!

Before you all panic, ask yourself how many times has rust on INFI been mentioned on the forums as a really big problem over the past 11 years? Only a handful of all the INFI blades that we have made, have had an issue with rust under the coating, and we have NEVER had a blade returned for rust damage (that I'm aware of). . . .That's not even 1/10th of 1 percent of the total number of blades made!!!:thumbup:. . . . Yes, it can happen, but it's very rare.

The competition grade finish has been covered before. It is ugly, covered in decarb, pitted, and has a wide open grain structure. Therefore it will rust as easily as D-2 or 154CM will under the same conditions. In comparative rust tests, 154CM and D-2 pitted while the oxidation on INFI was only superficial.

Rust 'em up and bust 'em up. . . but more importantly. . . Let's DRINK!!!!! :thumbup:

Jerry :D
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Thanks Boss... that's all I needed to hear. :D :thumbup:!!!




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Gerberblades said:
Are you talking about if 154cm in the same condition of Comp. infi? Because 154 CM has 14% chromium content which makes it a stainless steel.
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While that's something of an old bylaw, modern super alloys and nitrogen content sort of throw it out the window as far as being the "last word" in rust resistance.
 
I have been fighting decarb also! :cool:

My HR was 80% covered like the spots on the Squatch.
I left the HR in masking tape for a couple of days and when I pulled it off:eek::eek:


I used my Dremel with a cotton buffing wheel and green Veritas honing compound on it.
It comes off pretty quick, you can see the test patch I did on the Squatch.
I even had to go over the logo....

Picture150-1.jpg

Picture151.jpg
 
No disrespect intended especially since most of you guys could school me in the ins and outs of blade steel, but... Threads like this have made my decision to never buy a CF pretty concrete. So, the good news is that there will be more for y'all. I would like a standard satin finish or even coated for that matter, with a CF edge. Yes, it would make a mess of the coating, yes it might cost more. I don't want any knife to be that susceptible to surface rust. So does it ruin the knife, no, but I certainly wouldn't spread peanut butter on my pbj with any of those knives either. Call me simple or stupid, but I also don't want rust under my scales. I have a stripped HD that I carry in my car and it has lots of dimples and I never care for it in the slightest and don't have any rust issues. Something about the CF just doesn't sit well with me. BTW, I have the CG SARsq and its my favorite. Just one mans opinion.

Pete
 
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The Sarsquatch is an awesome design... I hope we see a Satin variant at some point !! :thumbup:
 
pedropcola said:
No disrespect intended especially since most of you guys could school me in the ins and outs of blade steel, but... Threads like this have made my decision to never buy a CF pretty concrete. So, the good news is that there will be more for y'all. I would like a standard satin finish or even coated for that matter, with a CF edge. Yes, it would make a mess of the coating, yes it might cost more. I don't want any knife to be that susceptible to surface rust. Soes it ruin the knife, no, but I certainly wouldn't spread peanut butter on my pbj with any of those knives either. Call me simple or stupid, but I also don't want rust under my scales. I have a stripped HD that I carry in my car and it has lots of dimples and I never care for it in the slightest and don't have any rust issues. Something about the CF just doesn't sit well with me. BTW, I have the CG SARsq and its might favorite. Just one mans opinion.

Pete
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i agree. i'd like to see the edge as an option by itself too. mainly so i don't have to spend several hours doing it myself and not getting it as sharp as they can
 
There is absolutely no point in locking this thread...
Everyone so far has been civil.. Busse has nothing to hide so this thread will stay open.

I still have to post some updates in a day or two..
 
UPDATE::::::


I tested the sarsquatch today with the wrap I put on it. The first thing I did was begin chopping up a fallen tree at my friends house. At first it was pretty comfortable but then the para cord started to separate under heavier chopping and eventually unraveled.

As of right now the Sarsquatch is at the shop awaiting the Straight handle treatment and rounded butt. The handle will resemble a SHSJ. I decided not to go with micarta slabs an instead get it wrapped properly with that resin. Also I am getting a custom kydex to go with it. I am hoping it will be done by tomorrow .. ...
 
Uncle_Jarvis said:
There is absolutely no point in locking this thread...
Everyone so far has been civil.. Busse has nothing to hide so this thread will stay open.
Click to expand...
:thumbup::thumbup:

Why lock a useful thread? :confused: Honestly, this thread is more helpful than 90% of the other threads I see on this board.

So, Steelnut, you let a layer of rust pop up then hit it with the dremel + honing compound? Do you just go until the superficial layer of rust comes off. I only ask because I don't know how thick the decarb might be. Is it obvious when to stop?
 
Uncle_Jarvis said:
There is absolutely no point in locking this thread...
Everyone so far has been civil.. Busse has nothing to hide so this thread will stay open.

I still have to post some updates in a day or two..
Click to expand...

+1, and look foward to your updates:thumbup:

Esp on how the straight handle and resin cord will look.
 
like we have all seen the decarb comes right off!!!!!!!!!! i liked mine rusty just wanted to grind!

hortonknives3034.jpg
 
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