MaMaMiA!!!!!!! NOW THATS A RUSTY SARSQUATCH

[Uncle_Jarvis]

Sweet.. Thanks for the info. and pics . :thumbup:

I'm am new to wrapping handles. I will have to give your style of wrap a try and see what feels more comfortable..

Hey Bill, is that Tri flow or break free ok to use on a food prep knife?

Also, Uncle J, on a user with a wrapped handle, I like to run a few loops of cord before I wrap it, through the handle holes, so that it adds some width, and then braid the wrap. It gives more width and slightly more cushion. If you have a wrap style you like, you can also wet it with some thinned resin, and make it more durable.

 

[DWRW]

He didn't say under the scales...he said under the coating. That's the part I don't get. Don't tell me condensation gets between the coating and the blade. If that were true, why apply a coating at all?

I see the misunderstanding knifeguy, read post #8.

Yeah... sorry. We appear to have been referring to two different comments.

Sadly, the most likely reason for rust under the coating is that the rust was likely there before being coated.

Personally, I always strip the coatings off all of my Busse and kin blades. I don't like coatings. I don't like the look and in some cases the coatings can impede optimal performance.

If a coating is going to be applied incorrectly over rust and actually "hide" rust, the coating is going to make the rust damage worse. :thumbdn:

About 99.9% of the knife makers in the world sell there knives with a satin finish. And most of those are less than $50.00. I don't get why Jerry charges $300 - $330 for satin finished blades. (... I don't like it either. ).

$20 - $30 to the cost of a CG blade for satin finished blade is much more reasonable.

.

 

[pbubsy]

Hey Bill,
Here is what the green/black linen looks like.

Sweet knife! What is it?

 

[Elen]

Sadly, the most likely reason for rust under the coating is that the rust was likely there before being coated.

Another possibility is that there was moisture, not rust, on the blade when the coating was applied. This would lead to some rust developing under the coating, and would probably also make the coating flake off eventually. I have one GW where the coating at the tip chipped off immediately as soon as I used the knife for the first time, but there wasn't any rust under that spot, probably just an air pocket between the steel and the coating.

 

[Lycosa]

I like the Wrap! A sub-wrap would lend more cushion. Thanks.

 

[Uncle_Jarvis]

That is a bushcraft blade made by Tim Horan.. He is a knifemaker from my area.. The model is called companion. There are more pics on his webpage.

I am actually going to try and make it to his shop today after work. Great guy for sure..

Sweet knife! What is it?

 

[moonwilson]

Wow, that's a well-loved (though not particularly well cared-for) Sarsquatch! Good work, UJ!

Infi is not glass, it won't break if you don't baby it.

I still haven't had a lick of rust on my comp. Jackhammer. Haven't left it out in the rain though.

 

[knife hunter]

Hey Bill, is that Tri flow or break free ok to use on a food prep knife?

Also, Uncle J, on a user with a wrapped handle, I like to run a few loops of cord before I wrap it, through the handle holes, so that it adds some width, and then braid the wrap. It gives more width and slightly more cushion. If you have a wrap style you like, you can also wet it with some thinned resin, and make it more durable.

YO J!

I have this style wrap on a Skeleton Key and it is killer. Fills the palm etc:thumbup:

 

[Uncle_Jarvis]

Well loved, for sure !

It started rusting bad when I left it in my trunk of my car overnight. Then on another occasion I let it outside for half a night, but there was no rain involved. I basically take care of this blade in the same manner as all my other Busse users. The sQuatch just seems to rust more quickly.. I like it..

I bet if you may be in for a suprise if ya remove the handles on your jackhammer..

Wow, that's a well-loved (though not particularly well cared-for) Sarsquatch! Good work, UJ!

Infi is not glass, it won't break if you don't baby it.

I still haven't had a lick of rust on my comp. Jackhammer. Haven't left it out in the rain though.

 

[Lil' Foo]

So... am I the only one that is concerned that rust developed under the scales???

It may only be the decarb, but rust is rust... and it EATS metal.
How long before it eats thru the handle???

I know Busse will fix any issues... but I'm sure a rusted tang failure would happen at an inopportune time.



.

 

[Uncle_Jarvis]

Nice ... I need to try that wrap style.. Problem is I don't know what the heck I am doing as far as the skill of handle wrapping goes.

I can't stress how much better balanced thie SarsQuatch is with out the micarta handles.. It would make a killer fighter now..

YO J!

I have this style wrap on a Skeleton Key and it is killer. Fills the palm etc:thumbup:

 

[Uncle_Jarvis]

Foo, you are absolutly correct.

I really want another Comp. SarsQuatch and make it a safe queen because I dig this model a lot. The problem is no matter how clean you guys think your Comp. finish is, no rust, ect ; think again.. Until you take off the handles there is no telling how extensive the rust situation is.

Have in mind I only owned this blade for a month and now it looks like this. It seems under the slabs is where the rust begins. I'm drawing that conclusion because of how extensive it was under the slabs in contast to the actual blade. I don't want to freak anyone out but it is what it is and you folks deserve to know.

I ended up taking a scotch brite wheel and removed all the rust where the slabs were.. There were a few spots where I noticed pitting from the rust which could not be removed due to the severity. As of right now the handle is rust free but you can see the scars it left...

I think the good thing about using a paracord handle is that you can easily remove it for handle/rust maitnance every week or so...

So... am I the only one that is concerned that rust developed under the scales???

It may only be the decarb, but rust is rust... and it EATS metal.
How long before it eats thru the handle???

I know Busse will fix any issues... but I'm sure a rusted tang failure would happen at an inopportune time.



.

 

[Dennis in MA]

I would think before it affects structural integrity, the rust would make the micarta either loose or make it snap. Either a gap will develop or (more likely) the rust will push on the micarta, snapping it under stress.

 

[moonwilson]

Hmm. I wonder if dripping some oil or tuf-glide around the scales and letting it seep in would help keep rust at bay under there. I bet it couldn't hurt. We need to get somebody with a big-ol brain in here. Does corrosion stabilize at some point- once there is a layer of oxidation on there? It's not like it's alive and actively eating away at the metal. I think it would take some doing for rust to eat away under the scales so much that it could cause a blade failure. You would definitely see deep rust around the tang long before that happened.

Where's OP? He has one of those big-ol science brains.

 

[Ken44]

I would think before it affects structural integrity, the rust would make the micarta either loose or make it snap. Either a gap will develop or (more likely) the rust will push on the micarta, snapping it under stress.

Dennis, it would take ALOT of rust to do what you desribe.
It would eat deeper in he steel before it would move the slabs. If it acually got bad enough to move/snap scales(don't think it ever would) the tang would have to be in really BAD shape..
Not possitive though, never seen it happen.


Foo, I'm a little concered as well. Think I'll send mine off to be satinized.

 

[Lil' Foo]

Dennis, it would take ALOT of rust to do what you desribe.
It would eat deeper in he steel before it would move the slabs. If it acually got bad enough to move/snap scales(don't think it ever would) the tang would have to be in really BAD shape..
Not possitive though, never seen it happen.


Foo, I'm a little concered as well. Think I'll send mine off to be satinized.

I'm thinking the same thing.

My point is that if rust is left untreated, it will continue to eat.
And there is no way to treat rust under the slabs without removing them
and elimeinating it.

.

 

[knife hunter]

BAn,

I see your pm box filling up

 

[Uncle_Jarvis]

That would be correct..

Believe it or not I did maintain the rust near the handle slabs by spraying PB blaster (catalytic converter cleaner) on it a few times a week. My main reason was because I did not was any rust under the slabs. That clearly did not work..

This thread is kind of getting me a bit worried now. I'm just thinking about some of my safe queens that would freak me out if I found that they rust where i can't see it.. I can't tell ya folks how many times I had to clean my BARF due to rust spotting on the spine and logo.. Oh god I hope there is not rust under the slabs..

I'm thinking the same thing.

My point is that if rust is left untreated, it will continue to eat.
And there is no way to treat rust under the slabs without removing them
and elimeinating it.

.

 

[Ken44]

BAn,

I see your pm box filling up

LOL, just sent him one, them came back and saw your post

 

[Uncle_Jarvis]

Aint that the truth... I'm sure this thread generated a barrage of PMs to Ban.

I already have a press I can use for the handles. All I need is a nice belt sander and I will not have to worry about sending my blades anywhere other than walking into my garage.
I'll be good to go in about two weeks.