Models, Tang-Types, Steel Thicknesses, & Weights

[thurin]

Phil,

Thanks so much for these additions. As you noted, the KE Bushie excels as a bushcrafting woods knife. I'd love to add the other three models to my set someday as well. They all sound like worthy ones to have. And I'll compliment you again on the Monarch mods.

 

[M4Super90]

Phil - As usual, an outstanding contribution of photos and detail to help other decide which they might want to try. Also as usual, now I think I need a KE Bushie. Think thurin will ever give up that orange scandi? This is one fine set of knives shown here:

 

[thurin]

Phil - As usual, an outstanding contribution of photos and detail to help other decide which they might want to try. Also as usual, now I think I need a KE Bushie. Think thurin will ever give up that orange scandi?

...

There are a few knives that will have to be pulled from my cold fingers. I'll let you guess what one of them might be.

Who knows what life might bring though.

 

[Comprehensivist]

Phil,

Thanks so much for these additions. As you noted, the KE Bushie excels as a bushcrafting woods knife. I'd love to add the other three models to my set someday as well. They all sound like worthy ones to have. And I'll compliment you again on the Monarch mods.

Phil - As usual, an outstanding contribution of photos and detail to help other decide which they might want to try. Also as usual, now I think I need a KE Bushie. Think thurin will ever give up that orange scandi?

There are a few knives that will have to be pulled from my cold fingers. I'll let you guess what one of them might be.

Who knows what life might bring though.

Thanks for the nice comments guys. I value both of your opinions.

Phil

 

[cutchu]

Tagged. Great info for future purchases. Thank all of you guys for your input.

 

[BDay]

This surely should be sticky!

You guys did so much work on this, it would have been at least as helpful to read before I started buying knives as during.

When I get time I will read the whole thing.

 

[Texas_toothpick]

Cool I thought I scanned almost all the pages I didn't see this. Good to know.

 

[Comprehensivist]

This surely should be sticky!

You guys did so much work on this, it would have been at least as helpful to read before I started buying knives as during.

When I get time I will read the whole thing.

Cool I thought I scanned almost all the pages I didn't see this. Good to know.

Guys,

There is a sticky at the top called "Your Reviews of Fiddleback Forge Knives." In that thread, I posted two replies that you should find useful. One is an index of all the Fiddleback knife review threads I could find on Blade Forums. The other is an index of the various Fiddleback comparison threads, including this one. The indices have links to the actual threads to save you a lot of search time. I hope that helps.

On a side note, I am working on one final large update for this thread. I hope to have it done by Friday.

Thanks for the comments.

Phil

 

[Jsega51]

Boy oh boy did I learn a lot from this thread alone. The pictures, measurements and comparisons have helped me a ton!

I worked out a trade for a Hiking Buddy which will be my first Fiddleback. I have fixed blades from LT Wright, Bark River, Leif Lambertson and Rick Menefee. I'm looking forward getting something new and different!

Thanks to all who have contributed. It takes a lot of work to compile all of the pictures and information. No to mention the time it takes to type it all out!

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 1 of 8


Intro:

In the five months since my last post in this thread, I have acquired a number of new knives and sold off most of my duplicates. Even though I don’t consider myself to be a collector in the purest sense of the word, I have amassed what most people would consider to be a “collection.” Like many people who hang out in this forum, I like to compare and contrast my group of knives to identify which ones are my favorites and why.

Some knives initially seem ideal to me when viewed in isolation. When I compare each knife head-to-head with others of similar size and/or intended uses, I discover distinctions that make it clear to me why I find one knife superior to another for my personal needs. I use all this data to help me decide which ones to keep and which ones I am willing to trade or sell. Your preferences may run exactly opposite of mine and I totally respect that.

In this update, I am going to discuss eleven knives. Eight are Fiddlebacks and three are from the “Fiddleback Family” of makers including; Fletcher, WAS (W.A. Surls), and Osprey K&T. Looked at individually, each one is a stellar example of craftsmanship in its own way. With that said, some appeal to me more than others in the broad context of my collection.

Here are ten of the eleven knives I will discuss here. Only the WAS Knives “Badger” is missing from this photo.




Some of the models are new in this thread and others have been discussed before. Since each knife is handmade and the samples here have different steel thicknesses or tang types than examples that have been previously discussed, I feel that the new entries provide useful data points that may help you determine what features are most important to you on a specific model.

I am using the same basic data reporting structure as my prior posts in this thread with a few new distinctions. First off, I want to clarify that all linear measurements use the top front edge of the handles as a starting point. That means handle length is from that location to the farthest point rearward and blade length is from there to the tip. I switched the balance point measurements to also start from this spot rather than reference off of the front set of pins that are not readily visible on bolstered knives.

Another first for me is that I have included in-hand photos to provide some length reference along with tang shots too. Will (“xxwjtxx”) did this in an earlier post in this thread. I found those photos useful, so I shamelessly borrowed his idea for this update.
Here is a photo of my hand with a ruler to provide a reference scale:




Specifications:

Model: Esquire

Notes: This model was introduced in the latter half of 2014. It has proven to be very popular with the EDC pocket carry crowd. This particular knife belongs to my friend Peter (“prom52”.) I asked to borrow it to determine if this model is one I want to buy at some point.

FF Lot Info: 2015 0320 09
OAL: 6.250”
Blade Length: 2.750”
Handle Length: 3.500”
Steel & Thickness: 0.125” O1
Tang Type: SFT
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Blue Curly Mango over natural w/ lime pinstripes
Weight (oz.): 3.1
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 0.889”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.703”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 0.885”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 2.500”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 1.825”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.361”








Model: Hiking Buddy (Starry Night)

Notes: As a devoted fan of Shadetree burlaps, I gave in to temptation to add this new color combo to my collection even though I already had a wonderful Ruby burlap Hiking Buddy. The bolsters and nicely spalted A2 steel also helped seal the deal for me.

Lot Info: 2015 0703 09
OAL: 7.325”
Blade Length: 3.140”
Handle Length: 4.185”
Steel & Thickness: 0.125” A2
Tang Type: SFT
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Starry Night Tsunami burlap over 1/8” thick black liners & black micarta bolsters
Weight (oz.): 4.0
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 0.960”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.787”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 0.900”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 2.890”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 1.825”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.361”

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 2 of 8

Model: Hiking Buddy (Bone)

Notes: I got to handle this knife at the 2015 Blade Show when a forum friend brought it along for show and tell. I complimented him profusely on what a beautiful and rare old school gem it is. He remembered my comments weeks later when he decided to sell it and asked if I was interested. I said let me think about it......for a split second.

Lot Info: 2012 Blade Show Knife
OAL: 7.350”
Blade Length: 3.260”
Handle Length: 4.090”
Steel & Thickness: 0.095” O1
Tang Type: Full Tang
Grind: Scandi
Handle Material: Polished & contoured Bone over 1/8” thick natural liners
Weight (oz.): 4.1
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 0.910”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.828” (Note: .813” @ front & .770” @ Rear)
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 0.884”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.033”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 1.698”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.295”








Model: Bushnub

Notes: The Bushnub is a smaller version of the flagship Bushfinger. It was introduced with a group of new models early in 2015. It fits into what I call the group of 3-1/2” models.

FF Lot Info: 2015 Blade Show
OAL: 7.520”
Blade Length: 3.455”
Handle Length: 4.065”
Steel & Thickness: 0.127” A2
Tang Type: SFT
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Cornflower Blue G-10 over 1/8” black micarta liners & bolsters
Weight (oz.): 5.0
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.219”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.780”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.105”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.220”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 2.025”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.202”








Model: Bushcrafter Jr.

Notes: The Bushcrafter Jr. is a smaller version of the popular Bushcrafter. It also was introduced with a group of new models early in 2015. Actually, it would be more accurate to say that this model was re-introduced. If you look back at the early pages of this forum, you will see that there were a couple of custom BC Jr.’s made in the early days.

Lot Info: 2015 Blade Show
OAL: 7.510”
Blade Length: 3.380”
Handle Length: 4.130”
Steel & Thickness: 0.156” A2
Tang Type: SFT
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Tangerine burlap over 1/8” black micarta liners & bolsters
Weight (oz.): 5.3
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.085”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.792”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.010”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.085”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 2.128”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.160”








Model: Osprey Knife & Tool “Raptor”

Notes: I met Chris at the 2015 Blade Show. After checking out all of his knives, I kept coming back to the Raptor. After about the fifteenth time I came back to handle this knife, Chris asked me why I didn’t just buy it. That is the polite way of saying, “What’s your problem tire kicker?” I had to chuckle while I grabbed my wallet.

Batch Lot Info: 2015 Blade Show
OAL: 8.307”
Blade Length: 3.732”
Handle Length: 4.575”
Steel & Thickness: .108” CPM 154
Tang Type: SFT
Grind: Flat
Handle Material: Black canvas micarta over black & red pinstripe
Weight (oz.): 3.9
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.095”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.773”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 0.845”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 2.940”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 1.916”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Point: 1.360”








Model: Arete

Notes: The Arete is one of the premier bushcrafting designs in the Fiddleback line-up. I like this model well enough that I decided to pick up this second one in tapered 5/32” steel thickness to compare and contrast with my thinner tapered 1/8” version.

Lot Info: 2015 0724 ??
OAL: 8.345”
Blade Length: 3.905”
Handle Length: 4.440”
Steel & Thickness: 0.155” O1
Tang Type: Tapered
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Tangerine burlap over black & white pinstripes
Weight (oz.): 5.5
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.070”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.809”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.083”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.395”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 1.920”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: .975”

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 3 of 8


Model: Fletcher “Esteban II”

Notes: After following Dylan’s work for two years, I was hoping to buy an Esteban II when I met him at the 2015 Blade Show. It turns out that was the one model that he did not have available. I did get to check out one that Brian (“mistwalker”) had with him and that experience sealed the desire for me to buy one of these. I got this specific knife two months later through Dylan’s “Dibs” system.

Lot Info: 07/29/2015
OAL: 8.450”
Blade Length: 4.085”
Handle Length: 4.365”
Steel & Thickness: .123” CPM 154
Tang Type: Tapered
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Red, White & Blue burlap
Weight (oz.): 4.8
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.223”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.765”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.160”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.295”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 1.915”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 0.700”








Model: Recluse

Notes: The Recluse is one of Andy’s older designs and it remains popular to this day with outdoorsmen & hunters. The larger Leuku and smaller Patch models were based off of this design. Since I had those two models already, I decided to fill in the middle position with a Recluse.

Lot Info: 2015 0508 21
OAL: 8.512”
Blade Length: 3.880”
Handle Length: 4.632”
Steel & Thickness: 0.124” A2
Tang Type: Tapered
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Emerald burlap over 1/8” black micarta liners & black bolsters
Weight (oz.): 4.5
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.050”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.785”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.033”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.088”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 2.015”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.200”








Model: Bushfinger

Notes: The Bushfinger has long been Andy’s flagship model. My first Fiddleback was a used Bushfinger and I have owned several since then. I sold or traded all of them in favor of other 4” models. When a forum friend approached me with an opportunity to buy this knife in a burlap color I didn’t have, I decided to give it one more try.

Lot Info: 2015 0619 ??
OAL: 8.820”
Blade Length: 3.910”
Handle Length: 4.910”
Steel & Thickness: 0.152” O1
Tang Type: Tapered
Grind: Convex
Handle Material: Electric Plum burlap over 1/8” black micarta liners & black bolsters
Weight (oz.): 5.8
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.295”
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.804”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.140”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.445
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 2.044”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.255”








Model: WAS (W.A. Surls) “Badger”

Notes: I have followed Allen’s progression as a knife maker since he started at Fiddleback. After meeting him at the Blade Show and checking out all of his knives on the table, I kept coming back to this Badger. I just had to overcome my bias for burlap and synthetic handles in order to pull the trigger on this double-bolstered burl beauty.

Lot Info: 2015 Blade Show
OAL: 9.189”
Blade Length: 4.259”
Handle Length: 4.930”
Steel & Thickness: 0.157” O1
Tang Type: Tapered
Grind: Hollow
Handle Material: Double black bolsters w/ (Maple?) Burl center over black & white pinstipes
Weight (oz.): 5.9
Blade Height @ Ricasso: 1.180"
Handle Width @ Palmswell: 0.805”
Handle Height @ Palmswell: 1.013”
Circumference @ Palmswell: 3.175”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Center of Palmswell: 2.454”
Distance from Front Edge of Handle to Balance Point: 1.035”

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 4 of 8

Comparison Photos & Observations:


Here is the Esquire shown below a Hiking Buddy and Patch. The Esquire is 1.100” and 1.045” shorter than those two knives respectively. That is a considerable length savings if you are looking for an EDC style knife to carry in one of the popular inside the pocket sheaths.

I also like the fact that the spear point tip on this model is located close to the centerline of the blade.




Here are the Hiking Buddies with a Patch in-between. These are similar size models with a different feel. I like both models, but in the past I have tended to reach for the Patch more often. That may change going forward since the scandi grind on the Bone Hiking Buddy adds a new dimension to things.




The two Hiking Buddies have very different personalities between the modern look of the bolstered Starry Night burlap on convex 1/8” spalted A2 vs. the old school thick handled contoured bone & scandi grind on 3/32” spalted O1.




Here is another view showing the difference in handle thicknesses especially in the middle and front sections. I want to note that even though the Starry Night HB is the thinner of the two, the handle is still more full and solid feeling that prior HB’s I have owned.




The Bushnub is 1.300” shorter overall than the Bushfinger. The blade is 0.445” shorter and the handle is 0.845” shorter. The distances to the balance point and center of the palm swell are very close between the two. That means means most of the shortening occurred on the back end of the handle while retaining most of the Bushfinger handle shape.




Here is another view of these two in the stacked position.




Here are my group of 3-1/2” models. I like the blade profile and centered spear point of the Monarch as well as the taller handle height vs. the BC Jr. The Bushcrafter Jr. is the most visually appealing profile of the three to me. The handle feels great in my hands due because the round butt makes more grip options work for me. The straighter top section of the handle on the Bushnub may work better for some hands, but it is my third choice in this group.




Here is anther view of the Bushcrafter Jr. and Bushnub to emphasize the difference between the round vs. square butt handles.




Here is the Buscrafter Jr. over the Hiking Buddy. Both models have round butts. The BC Jr. has a 0.110” taller handle and 0.240” more blade length with more belly than the Hiking Buddy.




Here is the Osprey Knife & Tool Raptor back-to-back with the Recluse to show the differences in profiles. The Raptor has an S-curve handle spine with upswept blade tip vs. the relatively straight spine on the Recluse. The first finger scallop and soft pointed pommel on the Raptor both work surprisingly well for me. I’ll admit that I have always liked handles with the first finger scallop.




Here is another view with these two knives stacked. As different as they are, both feel great in hand to me.

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 5 of 8

The Arete and Bushcrafter Jr. share the same round butt feature. The handle on the Arete is 0.310” longer and the blade is 0.425” longer. Those are significant differences to consider if you have XL size hands or thick fingers. The blade tip on the Arete is located closer to the centerline which makes drilling easier.




The Esteban II is 0.105” longer overall than the Arete. Not much difference there, but it is only one number to compare. The blade length of the Esteban II is 0.180” longer and the handle is 0.075” shorter than the Arete. The blade height of the Esteban II is also 0.153” taller at the ricasso. Looking at all these data points together shows that the Esteban II has a a more balanced handle to blade length ratio. This explains why the Esteban II has such fabulous neutral balance.




Here are the Arete, Esteban II and Bushcrafter Jr. together to show the relative blade shapes and tip positions. The Arete spearpoint is closest to centerline followed by the Esteban II and then the Bushcrafter Jr. I prefer more centered tips for my woodworking uses, but your needs may be completely opposite with a preference for higher tips and more belly. Again, this is just one factor to consider with your purchase decisions.




The Arete and Recluse are close in size with very different looks and feels. Round butt vs. square butt. Spearpoint vs. higher point blade with some belly. The handle on the Recluse is 0.192” longer which is enough difference to make the square butt a non-issue for me. Both of these models feel good in my hand.




The Recluse design was the basis for the larger Leuku and the smaller Patch in this family. Here are the three together on the balance beam. I avoided buying a Recluse for a long time because I thought that the other two covered what I needed from this design. I am glad that I filled in the middle position to complete the set. Honestly, if I woke up tomorrow and was told that I could only keep these three Fiddlebacks and a 12” machete, I wouldn’t feel lacking to cover my outdoor uses.




Here the three models stacked up to show relative blade size.




Here is the Recluse shown over the Leuku. The recluse handle is only 0.064” shorter and 0.093” less tall than the Leuku. Very close in other words. The main difference between these to is the 0.940” longer blade length on the Leuku.




Here is the Patch on top of the Recluse. The Recluse handle is 0.467” longer and 0.103” taller than the Patch. The blade on the Recluse is 0.730” longer also.




Here is the Bushfinger shown over the Arete and Recluse. Blade lengths are very close with the Bushfinger being only 0.005” and 0.030” longer respectively. The main difference is that the blade on the Bushfinger is 0.225” taller. The blade tip position on the Bushfinger falls in between the Arete and Recluse. The handle on the Bushfinger is .278” longer than the Recluse. This added length gives the Bushfinger more on a handled weighted bias. These are all factors to consider based on your hand size and other preferences.




Here are the Badger and Bushfinger shown between the Leuku and Terrasaur for scale reference. The Badger is the longest of the eleven knives that are the subject of this update. Compared specifically to the Bushfinger, the Badger is 0.369” longer overall with most of the difference being a 0.349” longer blade on the Badger. The Bushfinger blade is 0.113” taller and the handle is 0.127” taller than the Badger. The handle circumference is also .270” greater on the Bushfinger vs. the Badger.




As I was working on this update, I wanted to figure out objectively why I like the feel of the Badger more so than the Bushfinger. Two objective factors stood out to me. To illustrate, here is the Badger on top of the Bushfinger. There is only .020” difference in the handle length on these knives. The key to me is the distance to the center of the palmswell. It is 2.044” on the Bushfinger and 2.454” on the Badger.

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 6 of 8

Summary & Conclusions:

After all of this measurement and comparison activity, I have reached conclusions on how each of these knives will fit into my collection, or not. I have learned a lot doing this exercise. I had to reconsider some of my previous biases along the way in order to be more objective in my conclusions. That helped me identify my favorites from this group. I feel good about how I got there.

Here are my comments conclusions on each of the subject knives:


Esquire:

I’ll admit that 3-finger knives have never really interested me that much. Going into this, I was also worried that the angled butt configuration would be uncomfortable in my hand after my initial experience with the sharp edges bothering me on my Monarch.

After handling the Esquire, I was able to get past both concerns. This knife really surprised me in a good way. It feels substantial in hand rather than too small or dainty. The pointy blade design is very practical for the type of EDC utility work I would do with a 3-finger knife like this. I am talking about precision finesse work rather than rough work that requires more leverage. The angled pommel on the end of the handle was comfortable enough in my palm because all the corners were sanded with a slight blended radius that minimized the chance of this area becoming a hot spot for me.

Since this particular knife was on loan to me and had to be returned, it is fair to ask if I liked it well enough that I would be willing to buy one for myself. The truth is “probably not.” This answer has nothing to do with how I feel about the knife and everything to do with with the laws where I live. I see the Esquire as being an optimum size EDC when paired with one of the excellent inside pocket (ISP) or wallet style sheaths from one of our talented resident makers. I wish that I could carry one these in my pocket. Unfortunately for me, California law considers any fixed blade knife concealed in your pockets or elsewhere on your person to be a “dirk” or “dagger” that makes it a felony to carry this way. Open carry in a standard belt sheath is OK in most non-Metropolitan areas. Since I have to live within those restrictions, the Esquire loses some of its niche advantage for me vs. carrying the slightly larger Patch or Hiking Buddy in a belt sheath.

If I move to another state that allows pocket carry of a fixed blade, I will definitely be looking to add an Esquire to my line-up.


Hiking Buddy “Starry Night”:

The Hiking Buddy has long been one of my favorite Fiddleback models. Apparently I am not the only one who feels this way because it continues to be a big seller whether full custom, mid tech, or custom shop version.

I’ll admit that I initially picked this particular knife because of the Shadetree Starry Night burlap handle material. The black bolsters and nicely spalted A2 steel were added bonuses in my eye. What I had no way of knowing until I received it was that the handle is more full and hand filling the the one on my tapered 1/8” O1 Ruby version. The thicker handle and SFT tang of the new one moved the balance point further back on the the handle vs. my old Ruby one. Since I have consistently stated that neutral balance is one of my top criteria for selecting favorites, I was forced to re-examine my paradigm about what features are important to me. In the end, I decided that the more full handle on the Starry Night felt better in my hand and probably would offer better control and leverage in use. I sold the lighter and better balanced Ruby one to a local forum member and made a new friend in the process.

This knife will share the rotation with my Patch on hikes when I want to carry a belt knife for whatever tasks come up along the way. This knife is a keeper.


Hiking Buddy “Bone” :

I had just recently reached the the above stated conclusion that the Starry Night HB was going to be the “one” for me to keep in this model when a PM came in with the opportunity to buy this knife.

I have long admired Dave Major’s (“MajorD”) Bone HB. He has said that there were only three such bone handled knives made back in the day, so I knew this one was was pretty rare. Besides the beautiful array of color in the contoured bone, the brown pins and thick liners really add a rich look. I don’t know for sure if the liners and pins were truly brown back then or if this is just natural micarta that has aged nicely. Either way, it makes a great accent to the bone. The handle on this one is contoured, but thick front to back with less forward taper than is standard on this model.

The main thing that attracted me to this HB, was the scandi 3/32” O1 blade with some amazing old school spalting. I have been searching for months for a blade like this after I had the opportunity to use my good friend Nathan’s (“thurin”) scandi K.E. Bushie and Arete and experiencing how effective they are at cutting wood very precisely.

I wanted a dedicated woodworking / whittling knife and this classic HB definitely fits the bill. This one is a keeper for sure.


Bushnub:

The idea of a compact Bushfinger makes a lot of sense given how popular that model is in the Fiddleback line-up. The Bushnub’s compactness comes from a 0.455” shorter blade and 0.845” shorter handle than the Bushfinger. I like the nicely spalted SFT 1/8” A2 on this particular knife. I think that is an excellent default steel choice for this model. I find the taller guardless blade shape very appealing. I also like the striking handle combo of black bolsters and Cornflower Blue G-10 on this one.

What I have learned while working on this thread is that the Bushnub is a model that feels great to me when viewed in isolation. When I compared it head-to-head with the similar size Monarch and Bushcrafter Jr., the Bushnub came out third. My main rub with the “nub” is the handle. It feels great in the standard hammer grip, but the short length and square corners on the pommel end limit comfortable grip options for me.

That makes this knife too much of a one trick pony in my mind. Since I prefer the other models in this size slot, I don’t plan on keeping this Bushnub long term.


Bushcrafter Jr.:

The regular Bushcrafter has long remained one of my two favorite models. When the BC Jr. was announced earlier this year, that model shot right to the top of my wish list. It took me months to finally score one on a Friday. When it arrived, it was love at first feel for me with a great overall size, versatile blade shape, and a comfortable round butt.

This particular BC Jr. is sentimental to me because it was the one knife I hoped to score at the Blade Show. The combination of black bolsters and Shadetree Tangerine burlap is one of my favorite handle combos ever. Combined with some very nicely spalted A2, this makes for an attractive package overall. This model fills a “Jack of all trades” category for me, especially when paired up with a 12” machete.

If I could change one thing about this particular knife, it would be the steel thickness. I have determined that 5/32” SFT on any 4” and under Fiddlebacks just seems unnecessarily thick and handle heavy for my taste. My top preference would be a tapered 1/8” A2 blade as an ideal combo of weight, strength, and balance.

This knife is a keeper unless an identical knife in my preferred steel thickness comes this way.


Osprey K&T “Raptor”:

After meeting Chris Linton at the Blade Shade and checking out his wares on the table, I was impressed with the quality of work he is putting out. I finally settled on buying the Raptor.

I typically don’t care for blades with an upswept blade tip. After all the measuring on this knife, I discovered that this is an optical illusion of the design because the tip of the blade is really even with spine at the front of the handle. It just looks upswept because the spine dips down between these two points. I normally don’t care for black canvas micarta on a hand made knife because it looks boring to me. The addition of the red pinstripes adds some classy flair that distinguishes this as a hand made knife.

Once I got past those biases, I discovered that there is a lot to like about this knife. I really like the first finger notch in the handle. I also like the sweeping curve on the top of the handle. Taken together, these features provide a secure locked-in feel in hand. The flat ground 3/32” CPM 154 makes for a great slicer with low maintenance. At 3.9 ounces, this is the lightest knife in this group with the exception of the smaller Esquire.

This knife has taken over the “bird & trout” role for me. I have also discovered that the curve of the blade makes this a handy kitchen knife, particularly for mincing herbs and vegetables.

This knife is like a Ninja in the way that it has snuck into a respected regular user position and disrupted the balance of power in my collection. This knife is definitely a keeper for me.

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 7 of 8

Arete:

This model has long been one of my favorites in the 4” category. I like that the spear point is located on the centerline of the blade. I also like the round butt design of the handle that feels great in many grip options. The ratio of blade length to handle length closer to neutral than all the other knives in this group with the exception of the Esteban II. This improves the odds of reaching neutral balance. This combination of features makes this model an excellent choice for general bushcraft type activities.

I picked up this tapered 5/32” O1 Arete to compare with another one I have in tapered 1/8” O1. Both have burlap handles and convex grinds. The weight difference is 5.5 ounces for the 5/32” and 4.5 ounces for the 1/8”. There are subtle hand made variations in the handle shaping and grind heights.

Back in 2014, I would have considered the tapered 5/32” version to be the optimal choice for this model. It very well may be for most folks. Even so, my personal tastes have evolved to where I prefer the tapered 1/8” version for the bushcraft tasks that I do.

Rather than keep this nice knife as a spare and violate my “no dupes” rule twice in one thread, I will be letting this knife go back into the available pool at some point. This knife is way too nice to leave sitting in a drawer.


Fletcher “Esteban II”:

This is the first Fletcher knife that I have ordered through Dylan’s “dibs” system where you can request the next available knife of a certain model and have the first chance to buy it if he makes it. I furnished the Shadetree Red, White & Blue burlap for this project from my inventory of blanks and I suggested the pin arrangement. I left other details to his discretion like whether to add file work or not. I trusted Dylan’s judgement to determine what detail touches would make the knife perfect in his eyes. That proved to be a good decision. Dylan decided to skip the file work, but he added a very cool looking unsharpened swedge that highlights the shape of the blade.

The blade design is sort of unique on this model with the top of the spine angling up to a point about 2/3’s back on the blade before it swoops down to form a very useful thumb ramp. I don’t know if there is an official name for this blade shape, but I call it a “harpoon” shape. The forward position of the thumb ramp allows good leverage in use. The handle ergonomics are amazing on this knife through a combination of great design and careful execution. The angles on the front and back of the handle provide useful reference points in various grip options without any sharp edges thanks to the perfectly blended corners and supple feeling finish work.

This knife exceeded my expectations and continues to impress me. It is a keeper for sure.


Recluse:

I’ll admit that I avoided buying a Recluse for a long time because I already had the smaller Patch and larger Leuku in this design family. I just didn’t see how filling in centerfield so to speak would add something to the party that I needed. Then I saw this particular Recluse in one of my favorite handle combinations remain available for too long on a Friday, so I pulled the trigger. I am glad that I did.

The spine is relatively straight and there is a minimal drop to the tip of the blade. Coming in at 1.050”, the blade height is a little shorter than the other 4” models in the Fiddleback line-up, with the possible exception of the Ladyfinger which I have not had the opportunity to try yet. Due to the high tip position, this blade has enough belly to satisfy most hunters. The handle length of 4.632” with shallow curves on the bottom makes this model very maneuverable and comfortable to me in various grips. The handle is long enough that the square butt is not a problem, yet not too long that it move the balance too far back. In tapered 1/8” A2, this knife feels light and nimble at 4.5 ounces.

This knife has kind of sets the standard for what I am looking for on any future 3-1/2” or 4” Fiddleback purchases with thinner steel (i.e. 1/8” tapered A2 or SFT 3/32” A2 or CPM 154) for lighter weight and better slicing characteristics.

This knife is a keeper.


Bushfinger:

Like many folks here, my first Fiddleback was a Bushfinger. The one discussed in this thread is the fourth one I have owned. I’ll confess that I bought it largely because of the attractive bolstered Electric Plum burlap handles. At that time, it was the first and only Fiddleback made with this new color of Shadetree burlap.

This particular knife is the nicest of the four Bushfingers I have owned. The full height grind is beautifully executed and the handle has a very nice full feel to it without being exceptionally thick. All in all this is a prime example of a Bushfinger in my eyes. Even so, I still prefer other 4” models in the line-up.

After some careful measuring, I figured out that the reason this is true for me lies with the handle. The 4.910” handle length is longer than the other 4” models I have tried. The center of the palm swell is located toward the forward half of the handle rather than centered. This palm swell position places my first finger further ahead of the balance point than I prefer which gives this knife a more handle weighted bias. I know that it is sacrilege to suggest a change to the most popular model in the Fiddleback line-up, but I think that shortening the handle by about 0.300” would improve the balance between blade and handle length and improve the feel of it. This would sort of split the difference in handle lengths between the Bushnub and Bushfinger.

I have traded or sold my previous three Bushfingers in favor of other 4” models. Even though this is the nicest Bushfinger I have ever owned, I have to be realistic and say that it will likely leave my collection too. It is another one that is too nice to not be used.


WAS (W.A. Surls) “Badger”:

As I said in the opening, I have enjoyed watching the steady progression of Allen’s work through pictures and comments on the forum.

I’ll admit that I have a hard time judging scale and differences between models from individual pictures, so it was a real treat to get to handle and compare most of his knives at the Blade Show. Even though I mostly buy burlap and synthetic handled knives, I went out of character and bought this double bolstered burl handled knife based on its exceptional in hand feel and balance. At 9.189” OAL and 5.9 ounces, it is the longest and heaviest knife in this group of eleven. Those numbers alone don’t tell the whole story though. The close ratio of blade to handle length and a palm swell that is well located gives this knife a nimble and well balanced feel.

I don’t have any specific category of uses in mind for this knife right now, but I have no doubt it will be up to the task. This knife is a keeper.


Favorites:


Here are my five J-Dog approved favorites from this group:




What these five knives share in common are thinner steels and lighter weight.

Going from left to right; Bone Hiking Buddy in SFT 3/32” O1 @ 4.1 oz., Esteban II in tapered 1/8” CPM 154 @ 4.8 oz., Recluse in tapered 1/8” A2 @ 4.5 oz., Raptor in SFT 3/32” CPM 154 @ 3.9 oz., and Starry Night Hiking Buddy in SFT 1/8” A2 @ 4.0 oz.
Knives that are easier to carry (i.e. lighter weight) and better slicers (i.e. thinner steels) are my top criteria going forward in the the 4” and under category. No more 5/32” SFT for me unless it is on a 5” or longer model. This means my previous top priority of neutral balance moves behind thinner steel & full handles.

It amazes me that these three distinctly different profiles can each feel so good in hand.




During the picture shoot of my five favorites, J-Dog was walking back and forth sniffing and looking at each knife. She finally put a big lick on the Starry Night Hiking Buddy handle to let me know that was her favorite. I think she was attracted to the glow chips in the handle.

Here are a couple of crappy night time photos to show the glow chips. I will replace the photos with some better ones when I learn how to set my camera for low light.




I tried to capture the full moon in the spider hole.




If I was pressed to pick one favorite from this group, it would be the Esteban II. This knife has all my bases covered. The handle feels perfectly tailored for my hand. The fit, finish and ergonomics are flawless from end to end. Combine a tapered 1/8” CPM 154 guardless blade with a screaming sharp edge and some very cool patriotic Shadetree Red, White & Blue burlap handles, and we are talking something special. It has all that and the perfect neutral balance that I so appreciate on a field knife.

 

[Comprehensivist]

Part 8 of 8

Final Word:

It seems to me that this thread has fallen out of favor with most folks on this forum. No one is posting information about new or old models that haven’t been discussed here before. I think that is a shame because this thread provides a useful place to record objective data to balance out the emotional reasons why we choose one knife over another. It was fun when more folks posted information and opinions about various models so that we heard a nice cross-section of viewpoints.

Individual knife reviews seem to be the more popular trend these days, so this will be my final update to this thread.

I still have a couple of models on my wish list along with a another couple that are either out of production or seldom offered. If I manage to score something interesting, I’ll follow the trend and write it up as an individual review. Either that or I’ll just post a few pictures and comments in the “Fiddleback User Pics” or “Fiddlebacks & Food” threads.

If you have stuck around reading this far, I hope that you found some of this data and commentary useful in making decisions about which knives you want to acquire. I encourage you to do your own objective analysis to determine what features are most important to you.

Good luck with your Sharking!

Best regards,

Phil

P.S. - In closing, I want to thank my friend Peter (“prom52”) again for lending me his Esquire and serving as my Editor in Chief on this project. Your comments and suggested edits made this a better post.

 

[prom52]

Phil:

It was my pleasure to play a small role in assisting you in finalizing this update. The time and effort you put in are to be commended. As others have stated in past posts, your insights have played a significant role in helping us understand the nuances of the hand made knives that are crafted at Fiddleback Forge. This information has guided me in many of the acquisitions I've made in my own personal journey. Please know that I am grateful for your willingness to share your insights, and your courage to take a stand by calling it the way you see it. While we may have different assessments from our own experience, your posts help to provoke thought & discussion which along with personal trial & error is a sound basis for true learning. It's also good fun to have an endorsement from J-Dog thrown into the mix. She deserves a scratch and a treat for her efforts !

Peter

 

[TxSportsman]

Phil,

Excellent as always. You do such a "comprehensive" analysis of these knives it's unbelievable. If there is any sort of information what-so-ever anyone ever needs on these knives, they should reference your threads. Thank you for the time and effort that you put into this... I know it's not a quick task at all. This type of data will be here for years to come and will foster all sorts of knife purchases I believe. I haven't seen too many in depth game processing reviews, but with deer season upon us I hope to contribute something at least a fraction as informative and helpful as your posts.

As a side note, I am happy that you are now the owner of that scandi bone hiking buddy. I have seen it peek out here and there... and I am always in awe. A knife similar to that is truly one of only a few "grails" that I have. I keep my fingers crossed that at some point Andy finds some beautiful bone and decides to throw it on a very similar blade, and then the stars align and I have an opportunity to purchase it! Enjoy it and don't forget to post more pictures of it!

Thanks again Phil.

edit: and thank you also Peter

 

[TomR2]

Part 8 of 8

Final Word:

It seems to me that this thread has fallen out of favor with most folks on this forum. No one is posting information about new or old models that haven’t been discussed here before.** I think that is a shame because this thread provides a useful place to record objective data to balance out the emotional reasons why we choose one knife over another.* It was fun when more folks posted information and opinions about various models so that we heard a nice cross-section of viewpoints.*

Individual knife reviews seem to be the more popular trend these days, so this will be my final update to this thread.

I still have a couple of models on my wish list along with a another couple that are either out of production or seldom offered.* If I manage to score something interesting, I’ll follow the trend and write it up as an individual review.* Either that or I’ll just post a few pictures and comments in the “Fiddleback User Pics” or “Fiddlebacks & Food” threads.

If you have stuck around reading this far, I hope that you found some of this data and commentary useful in making decisions about which knives you want to acquire.* I encourage you to do your own objective analysis to determine what features are most important to you.

Good luck with your Sharking!

Best regards,

Phil

P.S. - In closing, I want to thank my friend Peter (“prom52”) again for lending me his Esquire and serving as my Editor in Chief on this project. Your comments and suggested edits made this a better post.

This is my first post to BladeForums. That hopefully will provide perspective on what I'm about to say. I hope you reconsider your decision to no longer post these comparative reviews. I'm not new to life, or "boys and toys," (having worked in the planning function at one of the larger firearms manufacturers, back east, years ago). I am new to knife collecting. Your reviews are wonderful. They are very useful to folks like me who are new to this, and therefore reticent to post. There are limited places to go and touch high end knives here in the Bay Area and none that I know of, that carries Fiddleback Forge. I suspect that's true in much of the rest of the country. Looking at pictures on the web, reading dimensions, even with a 6" scale in hand, doesn't really get at the nuance of the personal interaction required to know if a knife is going to be one of the one's. I just bought my first Fiddleback. The choice was not without some nail biting as I tried to imagine, just what it was that was going to appear in the mail in a few days. I have visited your various posts several times over the past couple weeks and they absolutely helped. The lack of "interest" you mentioned above may just be a reaction by the relative small number of folks who appear within these pages and do post. Active posters are already in play. They own, have owned, and therefore have experience on which to base their next purchase. I suspect, I'm not alone. Those of us who most benefit, from the kind of info you have supplied are in the wings, reading and learning, but more than likely not posting. Whatever you decide, for all of this thank you.