The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
This sort of thing happens when someone posts image links from a host that one has to be logged into to see. (like outlook.live) The poster can't tell that other folks can't see it, because it's showing for him.
O man....that's a great one!!!!
That looks like a very practical application for a two blade Barlow. If the main blade was a spear, it would be "perfect"...
Got a good saw. GEC Lumberjack had a huge Spear and saw but it's a rare and somewhat incongruous pattern 
I generally take a utility knife blade and hit it through the pins with a hammer or mallet and a piece of wood. Sometimes I put the utility blade in a vise and hit the knife down onto it with a mallet. This will cut through the pins and you can take it apart. It may not be the best way, but it’s worked for me.
I’ve done it both ways though admittedly with a razor blade only once, but many times with a pin punch if you’re going to do a rehandle I’d knock out the pins with a punch it works really well. I drill a dimple in the pin to give the punch somewhere to grab but also get rid of some of the expanded pin that will make it difficult to knock out the pin. I use a piece of wood to sit the knife on with a hole or two drilled larger than the pin so the pin has somewhere to go as you tap it out and the wood will not damage the knife when hammering. Sounds like others would know more than me but I’d be hesitant to use a razor blade on a knife without bolsters on both ends unless you went at it with the razor at the but end tapping on the blade end bolsters I think I’d be difficult to start at the back end getting the razor blade in there
I've done a couple now. I like to center punch the pins, drill the ends then use my automatic center punch to knock the pins out. Usually over top of a large hole drilled into a block of wood so the pin can freely work it's way out.
That looks like a very practical application for a two blade Barlow. If the main blade was a spear, it would be "perfect"...
Also, if you’re having trouble seeing the pivot pin in the bolster, you can knock out the other two pins first and then swivel the handles around a bit. That can make the pivot pin more visible.
Ah... yes the Radio Jack... unfortunately, I have not won the Lotto yet, so that one is out of my financial reach...
I'm working on one now, and getting the pivot pin out was a pain. I was beginning to think they had soldered it in place... drilled it, tapped on it, drilled the other side, tapped it some more, wiggled and twisted it... finally got it out.
That looks like a new GEC build in progress. Very nice attention to detail... did you get the micarta online, or is it salvage? Man, I've got a long way to go... lot to learn.
that's what I get for not measuring the knife frame, just working on "memory"... at my age, and my memory, I should know better than that... I'm thinking this one will get some type of wood scales. That's what it had to begin with, so there's a type of continuity to it, I suppose. Yeah, that's my story.... 
Thank you very much! This was a very rough knife as stock. Still not perfect, some imperfections I just couldn't square away but a vast improvement IMO. Micarta is from Maker Material Supply. Just some of their standard green canvas. Here she is all finished up. Before and after. Thanks for looking!That looks like a new GEC build in progress. Very nice attention to detail... did you get the micarta online, or is it salvage? Man, I've got a long way to go... lot to learn.
I'm working on a conversion of an electrician's knife, and was going to use some winterbottom bone scales I bought online, but I bought a pair that was 1/4" too short...
