Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

[Rose and Thistle Custom]

You guys are really doing some great work there. Jsdistin, With the blade delete I start to really like that knife.
And that 93 is a real beauty.

 

[Signalprick]

You guys are really doing some great work there. Jsdistin, With the blade delete I start to really like that knife.
And that 93 is a real beauty.

Thank you Josh!

 

[jsdistin]

Now that is very well done! I like single blade slip joints and that one exceptionally well done. Very nice.

Great Work on Both!!!

You guys are really doing some great work there. Jsdistin, With the blade delete I start to really like that knife.
And that 93 is a real beauty.

Thanks guys! It thins it out quite a bit, the secondary blade and liners are thicker than most others. It also makes the blade easily pinchable, it’s in my pocket for now, at least until the next one.

 

[jsdistin]

This one should be interesting when it’s done if everything works out. It’s a 72 blade with a f&f farmer lock body, I need to file the lock bar a little bit and reposition the pivot pin hole. I’ll add bolsters, not sure if it’ll be a barlow or standard bolster. All contingent on not messing up the lock bar of course.

 

[Signalprick]

This one should be interesting when it’s done if everything works out. It’s a 72 blade with a f&f farmer lock body, I need to file the lock bar a little bit and reposition the pivot pin hole. I’ll add bolsters, not sure if it’ll be a barlow or standard bolster. All contingent on not messing up the lock bar of course.
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Cool project man! Good luck. Can't wait to see the final product.

 

[Signalprick]

Lighting stinks but I removed the coping on this #92 tonight. These feel great in hand slimmed down!

 

[glennbad]

This one should be interesting when it’s done if everything works out. It’s a 72 blade with a f&f farmer lock body, I need to file the lock bar a little bit and reposition the pivot pin hole. I’ll add bolsters, not sure if it’ll be a barlow or standard bolster. All contingent on not messing up the lock bar of course.
View attachment 1235414

Good luck with that. I find lockbacks to be exceptionally tricky to get right.

 

[Pinemoon]

Just finished up this #93. Black paper micarta, fluted bolsters, hand rubbed satin finished blade. Really proud of this one.
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Simple blade delete.
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Great work Gents
They look factory done

 

[Signalprick]

Has anyone ever removed a bolster from a GEC? If so how did you do it? Are they press fit on?

 

[Rose and Thistle Custom]

There's a factory tour on YouTube that shows how they did it, think it was press fit.

 

[Signalprick]

There's a factory tour on YouTube that shows how they did it, think it was press fit.

Thanks for the video Josh. Press fit. Would drilling it out be the best course of action then you think?

 

[jsdistin]

Good luck with that. I find lockbacks to be exceptionally tricky to get right.

Definitely pretty difficult, it’s coming together but the lock is not engaging fully and is getting jammed up, so I’ll have to spend some time figuring that out.

Thanks for the video Josh. Press fit. Would drilling it out be the best course of action then you think?

I would think drilling it out would work depending on what you’re trying to do. A lot of them have overlap between the bolster “pin” and the pivot pin hole so removing the bolster will result in one large hole.

 

[jsdistin]

It’s coming along, but we’ll see if everything works out.

 

[Terdl76]

.

 

[jsdistin]

Thought people might like to see the insides of the GEC lock back. The top picture is where things aren’t fitting and the bottom 3 are where everything’s filed and fitting. I still need to take some off the belly of the blade and then thin out the full flat grind as the blade was thicker than the spring you can see that the tang stamps are gone from thinning out the blade. I also had to take a lot off the kick to get the blade down in the well. I’ll probably thin down width at the bolster end to fit the thinner blade better

 

[Signalprick]

I would think drilling it out would work depending on what you’re trying to do. A lot of them have overlap between the bolster “pin” and the pivot pin hole so removing the bolster will result in one large hole.

I noticed when I removed the coping on the #92 green micarta that the rear bolsters stamped post was right up next to the pin hole. Ultimately my goal is to turn my #92 Northfield into a bare end knife with African blackwood wood covers.

 

[jsdistin]

I noticed when I removed the coping on the #92 green micarta that the rear bolsters stamped post was right up next to the pin hole. Ultimately my goal is to turn my #92 Northfield into a bare end knife with African blackwood wood covers.

As long as they are two distinct holes it would be fine. What I have seen that would be problematic is when the pin hole goes partly through the liner and partly through the bolsters stamp post.

 

[Terdl76]

My TC one arm beerlow in some pretty gnarly soup bone...
https://imgur.com/gallery/HCf6aeZ

 

[Signalprick]

My TC one arm beerlow in some pretty gnarly soup bone...
https://imgur.com/gallery/HCf6aeZ

Amazing work!

Here's a Case Copperlock I just did for a gentleman.

 

[jsdistin]

There’s some up down blade movement that I’m going to try to remove by taking the blade back out and hammering out the tang where it meets the spring. If that works I may carry it around a little bit before putting it away. I think it will position the blade better when open as well. I may put a bevel around the edges if everything works out as well.