Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

Easyrider said:
Now that is very well done! I like single blade slip joints and that one exceptionally well done. Very nice.
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paulhilborn said:
Great Work on Both!!!
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Rose and Thistle Custom said:
You guys are really doing some great work there. Jsdistin, With the blade delete I start to really like that knife.
And that 93 is a real beauty.
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Thanks guys! It thins it out quite a bit, the secondary blade and liners are thicker than most others. It also makes the blade easily pinchable, it’s in my pocket for now, at least until the next one.
 
This one should be interesting when it’s done if everything works out. It’s a 72 blade with a f&f farmer lock body, I need to file the lock bar a little bit and reposition the pivot pin hole. I’ll add bolsters, not sure if it’ll be a barlow or standard bolster. All contingent on not messing up the lock bar of course.
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jsdistin said:
This one should be interesting when it’s done if everything works out. It’s a 72 blade with a f&f farmer lock body, I need to file the lock bar a little bit and reposition the pivot pin hole. I’ll add bolsters, not sure if it’ll be a barlow or standard bolster. All contingent on not messing up the lock bar of course.
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Cool project man! Good luck. Can't wait to see the final product.
 
jsdistin said:
This one should be interesting when it’s done if everything works out. It’s a 72 blade with a f&f farmer lock body, I need to file the lock bar a little bit and reposition the pivot pin hole. I’ll add bolsters, not sure if it’ll be a barlow or standard bolster. All contingent on not messing up the lock bar of course.
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Good luck with that. I find lockbacks to be exceptionally tricky to get right.
 
Has anyone ever removed a bolster from a GEC? If so how did you do it? Are they press fit on?
 
glennbad said:
Good luck with that. I find lockbacks to be exceptionally tricky to get right.
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Definitely pretty difficult, it’s coming together but the lock is not engaging fully and is getting jammed up, so I’ll have to spend some time figuring that out.

Signalprick said:
Thanks for the video Josh. Press fit. Would drilling it out be the best course of action then you think?
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I would think drilling it out would work depending on what you’re trying to do. A lot of them have overlap between the bolster “pin” and the pivot pin hole so removing the bolster will result in one large hole.
 
Thought people might like to see the insides of the GEC lock back. The top picture is where things aren’t fitting and the bottom 3 are where everything’s filed and fitting. I still need to take some off the belly of the blade and then thin out the full flat grind as the blade was thicker than the spring you can see that the tang stamps are gone from thinning out the blade. I also had to take a lot off the kick to get the blade down in the well. I’ll probably thin down width at the bolster end to fit the thinner blade better
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jsdistin said:
I would think drilling it out would work depending on what you’re trying to do. A lot of them have overlap between the bolster “pin” and the pivot pin hole so removing the bolster will result in one large hole.
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I noticed when I removed the coping on the #92 green micarta that the rear bolsters stamped post was right up next to the pin hole. Ultimately my goal is to turn my #92 Northfield into a bare end knife with African blackwood wood covers.
 
Signalprick said:
I noticed when I removed the coping on the #92 green micarta that the rear bolsters stamped post was right up next to the pin hole. Ultimately my goal is to turn my #92 Northfield into a bare end knife with African blackwood wood covers.
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As long as they are two distinct holes it would be fine. What I have seen that would be problematic is when the pin hole goes partly through the liner and partly through the bolsters stamp post.
 
There’s some up down blade movement that I’m going to try to remove by taking the blade back out and hammering out the tang where it meets the spring. If that works I may carry it around a little bit before putting it away. I think it will position the blade better when open as well. I may put a bevel around the edges if everything works out as well.
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